Horsepower limit for out of the box Edelbrock RPM heads

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does anyone know a company that makes valves for lots of different kinds of engines, based in Florida, BBB valves...
did a search for BBB valves at Moparts and they seem to be good valves.

anyways, those are what are in the Promaxx heads.
 
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does anyone know a company that makes valves for lots of different kinds of engines, based in Florida, BBB valves...
did a search for BBB valves at Moparts and they seem to be good valves.

anyways, those are what are in the Promaxx heads.

Ferrea Valves is in Florida
 
I'd love to "finger" one of those ports just to feel the short side turn.
:thumbsup:
I can post some pictures of a set.... I might be able to flow one of the shockers in about week when I’m at my local shop.
 
This is actually a very good conversation. The TFS heads actually sound VERY appealing. An OOTB Head, non-offset rocker AND LA intake and exhaust?? Oh and it flows 300CFM? That excites me. With the right set up I can make 600+ hp with that and that would put my street car in the 9's. A 1500 head that flows 215 on my bench doesn't excite me. Ill pay the extra 800 for the TFS head. Oh and I race a grudge car with TFS Cleveland Head (Ford, sorry) and it runs amazingly good out of the box. If thats any indication of how these heads will work then I am excited.
 
You may still be in trouble LOL..... The Cleveland heads flowed better than the SBM heads out of the factory, even the 2 bbl versions... at least in the intake side.... the exhaust had some 'issues'. And TF shows both a 2 BBL based and a larger head for the Clevelands. The 2 BBL based TF head (195 cc ports) is 289 cfm at .500"lift and 313 cfm at .600" lift, but the larger 225 cc intake port head is beyond it..... 313 cfm at .500" lift and 336 cfm at .600" lift.
 
I'd love to "finger" one of those ports just to feel the short side turn.
:thumbsup:


I spend at least an hour every year at the Halloween Classic Race fingering their ports. They laugh when they see me coming. And food for thought I’ve seen a lot of racers turning a 300 cfm head into a 400 horsepower disaster. Have a great weekend
 
There are pics posted on the Jegs/eBay listing for the ProMaxx shocker 185’s....... the floor of the intake port, as it gets close to the short turn is untouched(no cnc marks).
I don’t see how there could be a lot of short turn profiling in that situation.
That’s not to say they still couldn’t flow what they claim.

As for the exhaust port........ I’d gladly give up a few cfm to retain a little more flange thickness/width to help with header gasket sealing.

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I spend at least an hour every year at the Halloween Classic Race fingering their ports. They laugh when they see me coming. And food for thought I’ve seen a lot of racers turning a 300 cfm head into a 400 horsepower disaster. Have a great weekend
Best quote on the topic I read once was something like;

“The best way to kill a great head is with a crappy intake.”
 
When I am porting Edelbrock heads as bad as they need port volume to work I take some material thru "the pinch" off the floor and than try to avoid taking any as I approach the "short-turn". The short-turn is so pathetic on these heads why remove even more material. That's why a W2 head works so well. It has a nice arched short-turn that only needs shaped and widened.
 
I wish I could see what is and is not a good/great floor & short turn, like a cut away. I just don’t know what to look for and/or avoid.
 
The good ones flow good, the bad ones don’t ;)
:rofl::rofl::rofl:

Well, let’s just laugh at that and say that didn’t help anybody wanting to learn how to port a head. I know, just get into it and try it.....

If I ever get a free set of heads, or ones old enough we’re I don’t care about them anymore..... I’ll try my hand at wrecking them.
:lol:
 
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I wish I could see what is and is not a good/great floor & short turn, like a cut away. I just don’t know what to look for and/or avoid.


Did you ever see the post I did on port molding. Looking at a port in 3D is so nice to be able to do
 
John, what was that for a head?


That a mold I took of the set of heads going on my heads up car (B1). They were pushing 420 cfm and there was more there but I had to get moving on the build. I molded them because I have another set of B1’s with titanium valves and this will help get me there quicker and hopefully even more flow. Makes it nice to study a port while in the house watching tv. Yaaa I have an illness. Lol
 
Thanks I know that but that was good to post up.

I still don’t bye into it. I say yes we can. We didn’t need it along with a huge valve and still flow well and make power. The option for it would have been better. Having it as the ONLY option keeps it expensive.

You can keep on praising it but most average guys can’t afford it or the expense that goes along with it.

Closing the gap with the other guys? Please. Let’s be serious for a few seconds. The only big thing missing was heads at an affordable level. Now it’s blocks & heads. When the W-7-8 were new, right there were your heads keeping up with the Jones.
My .02= The RPM head is a great value for the guy looking for the typical 400-500hp type combos. Once you have to pay to port a set of the RPMs, the Victor head comes in for the win with more power per dollar.
 
Do these heads that flow 300+ work worth a crap in the lower rpm ranges, say in a street or road course car? For my use cases, a nice flat torque curve from 2500 rpm on up is more desirable than a few more HP all on the top end. Obviously cam selection plays here but does a 370 cfm Victor or Indy 360-1 have good port velocity for responsiveness?
 
Do these heads that flow 300+ work worth a crap in the lower rpm ranges, say in a street or road course car? For my use cases, a nice flat torque curve from 2500 rpm on up is more desirable than a few more HP all on the top end. Obviously cam selection plays here but does a 370 cfm Victor or Indy 360-1 have good port velocity for responsiveness?
A lot of how much the head is ported and how well it works is a combination equal to the entire engine package.

In an example, a prepped stock port Edelbrock head is (IMO) just great for a mildly hopped up 340 or 360. It is the port volume that lends itself well for this CID area. On a 318, it is close to a nice high performance head. Not exactly the head with grandma in mind.

This basic overview also applies to the performance scale going upwards. In order to have a well rounded package on a fully ported set of heads, the rest of it has to be there to support it. While it is possible to use less than the head can handle and have a nice package, you have to ether maintain the balance of the target area of port volume to the CID for the goal or you can over head the engine.

To much head drops low end torque a bit. How much it drops is combo dependent.
CID dependent, cam size, etc... Everything comes into play to some degree.

It’s realy impossible to predict.

For your example above, we would need to see the whole combination and not just the engine spec’s.


Did you ever see the post I did on port molding. Looking at a port in 3D is so nice to be able to do
Yes sir, sure did!
 
Do these heads that flow 300+ work worth a crap in the lower rpm ranges, say in a street or road course car? For my use cases, a nice flat torque curve from 2500 rpm on up is more desirable than a few more HP all on the top end. Obviously cam selection plays here but does a 370 cfm Victor or Indy 360-1 have good port velocity for responsiveness?
If you’re asking if it will work with 3.23 gears, lugging the engine around town, I’d say no, but if you’re talking about sustained highway cruising with an OD, it’ll work fine. Just downshift before trying to pass! Running a small block at low rpm seems counterintuitive to me. Isn’t that what the big blocks are for? In a road course car, wouldn’t you gear it accordingly?
 
If you’re asking if it will work with 3.23 gears, lugging the engine around town, I’d say no, but if you’re talking about sustained highway cruising with an OD, it’ll work fine. Just downshift before trying to pass! Running a small block at low rpm seems counterintuitive to me. Isn’t that what the big blocks are for? In a road course car, wouldn’t you gear it accordingly?
We need the combo and expected rpm band it races in. The size of the engine as well as the rest of the car. Port cross section and port flow is needed to see how well it fits the engine and it’s performance arena. Also, if the car is expected to drive the street and traffic.
 
We need the combo and expected rpm band it races in. The size of the engine as well as the rest of the car. Port cross section and port flow is needed to see how well it fits the engine and it’s performance arena. Also, if the car is expected to drive the street and traffic.
Agreed for sure. You took the time the to explain all that in your response. I’ve typed it so many times I don’t bother to take it that indepth anymore unless someone is writing a check, lol.
 
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