Yea, it is lengthy and I haven’t typed it in awhile so...... ha ha ha
If you’re asking if it will work with 3.23 gears, lugging the engine around town, I’d say no, but if you’re talking about sustained highway cruising with an OD, it’ll work fine. Just downshift before trying to pass! Running a small block at low rpm seems counterintuitive to me. Isn’t that what the big blocks are for? In a road course car, wouldn’t you gear it accordingly?
For sure. I think with a solid roller for more rpm and a bigger carb, I could have hit 700hp on pump gas with that Victor headed R3 pretty easily. I’d do more small blocks but I hate that 59 degree lifter angle. Mopar should have ditched that disaster for the LA platform.Pretty crazy we are sitting here talking about 400, 500, 600 horsepower small block engines. It’s a great time to be a Mopar lover
It's a great time to be ANY American V* lover.... parts galore compared to 30-40 years ago. 350-400 used to be darned good for a home builder LOL.Pretty crazy we are sitting here talking about 400, 500, 600 horsepower small block engines. It’s a great time to be a Mopar lover
Weight on the front end is a bad, bad thing in road racing, rally, auto-x. I'd far prefer a small block with AL heads and intake to drop 100 lbs off the engine and front end weight. Weight is always a big enemy in cornering, and, besides, you can easily get RWD torque to exceed the available traction while cornering (which is lower than straight line traction) with a small block these days, in all gears except maybe the top one. So the big block is a poor choice unless you are on a wide open course with long straights.If you’re asking if it will work with 3.23 gears, lugging the engine around town, I’d say no, but if you’re talking about sustained highway cruising with an OD, it’ll work fine. Just downshift before trying to pass! Running a small block at low rpm seems counterintuitive to me. Isn’t that what the big blocks are for? In a road course car, wouldn’t you gear it accordingly?
My only road racing experience is a Lemons race in a Honda Accord, but I really don’t think a big port in a low rpm engine is a good combo for that! Lol. You’d better swap in a Hellcat Hemi!!Weight on the front end is a bad, bad thing in road racing, rally, auto-x. I'd far prefer a small block with AL heads and intake to drop 100 lbs off the engine and front end weight. Weight is always a big enemy in cornering, and, besides, you can easily get RWD torque to exceed the available traction while cornering (which is lower than straight line traction) with a small block these days, in all gears except maybe the top one. So the big block is a poor choice unless you are on a wide open course with long straights.
FWIW..... My experience is a qualified 'yes', based on my long-ago builds of a 351C and a 1.6L Mitsubishi, where that wide range flat performance was desired. Both had what would usually be classified as 'too big' on most or all of the flow parts (heads, intakes, headers) for low RPM use, but the cam selection in each case was small-medium and the static CR kept up. The cam and SCR/DCR made the low end 'fully awake' to or below 2500 RPM and the large flow parts allowed them to still wind out with good torque to 6000 RPM or so, with optimum shift points on both engines right at 6500 RPM.Do these heads that flow 300+ work worth a crap in the lower rpm ranges, say in a street or road course car? For my use cases, a nice flat torque curve from 2500 rpm on up is more desirable than a few more HP all on the top end. Obviously cam selection plays here but does a 370 cfm Victor or Indy 360-1 have good port velocity for responsiveness?
You competed in the Lemon race?!?! Get out!My only road racing experience is a Lemons race in a Honda Accord, but I really don’t think a big port in a low rpm engine is a good combo for that! Lol. You’d better swap in a Hellcat Hemi!!
I'm more interested in engine responsiveness. When you are driving a road course or cone event, the engine spends a lot more time back and forth in the mid-RPM band than it does in the top 1500 rpm. The the throttle isn't wide open all the time. An engine that is dead below 4000 rpm might work for a drag car with a 5k converter, but isn't going to pull the car out of a slow speed corner very well. Obviously the "package" has a large effect on the performance, but it is difficult to pick a gear that is going to be perfect but I think a 3.55-3.91 is the likely choice until/unless an OD manual can be funded. There is a limit on how much gear you can run and still drive it to and from the events.
No hemi in it, but I could pull off that swap!!Yow! Great line of posts.
You competed in the Lemon race?!?! Get out!
That looks like a barrel of fun.
But I have to ask, not that I think your crazy or anything, but did you want to put that Hellcat HEMI in the Honda?
Again, not that I think your crazy but I want pictures to copy the build. Think about!
Run silently down the road, talk trash, stomp the pedal and open up the dumps!!!!
Now how cool would that Honda become?
You could potentially STOMP OUT Demons!
EXACTLY! You need smooth, wide torque to make the brain-to-foot-to-rear wheel control of the torque on the rear tires wholly predictable so it becomes a muscle-memory control for the driver. Plus to make sure you always have a gear that will work, whatever the speed. That's is all to get the right slip on the wheels to throttle steer, as well as to get a good launch out of every corner. You eventually run out of torque at the higher speeds, simply due to the lower trannie gear ratios, and have to change your driving style. That is where a big block's torque would step in, and be of use on the higher speed, wider open courses."You're gonna be mashing that thing all the time at different RPMs and you want it to pull hard every time," or something along those lines is what he said.
I like your thinking!No hemi in it, but I could pull off that swap!!
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No hemi in it, but I could pull off that swap!!
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Interesting post, when I called Jim at Racer Brown for a custom grind and told him I intended to ultimately road race the car he basically explained what you just said. Peak power won't be as important as having instant throttle response and a wide power band to shoot the car out of the corners. "You're gonna be mashing that thing all the time at different RPMs and you want it to pull hard every time," or something along those lines is what he said.
Exactly. I've been driving a 2000 BMW M5 for the last ten years. It's obviously much more modern technology, but it it's 5.0 liter V8 tops out with 400hp at 6500rpm, but it produces better than 360 lb-ft of torque from 2500-5500 rpm. That motor really can launch that 4000lb car out of the corner with it's 6 speed manual. I'm hoping to find a cam/head combo for my 340 that will emulate that profile and better the numbers. That would make the Cuda a real handful.
M5 chassis dyno.
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The big big picture is the dyno tells us one story and the track tells us the truth. That’s why I never waste money on dynos. I would rather spend that money towards “real horsepower”. Like maybe a better set of heads, ported heads, ported intake, etc, etc.
Ive got a 408 with eddy heads . The porting is stock but they have larger inlet valves 2.08 from memory . It dynoed 515hp and 535 ftlb.its running a 750 holley and dual plane inlet with a howard hydraulic roller. Ive ran 11.2 at 120 in a street car through a 727 and 3.9 gears.i would dearly love to run an 11 flat . Will a port job get me there ? Im in australia so theres no cnc program that i can find for my heads . I know a fair few stock eddy heads on 408's that are around 450hp and that seems to be the norm.