mygasser
Well-Known Member
no apology needed sir.My appoligy Sir and thank you for the correction.
no apology needed sir.My appoligy Sir and thank you for the correction.
The stud was way worse but any ideas or advise on this? This is the bolt arp sent me to replace the studThat's going to be a lot of grinding on that pump housing. I hope there's enough meat there.
I SWEAR it's things just like THIS that make guys switch to Chevy. Everything bolts right on those with no problems. It's really a wonder there are still as many Mopar guys around as there are, given the piss poor support we get.
The stud was way worse but any ideas or advise on this? This is the bolt arp sent me to replace the stud
Seems to me that is one of the least stressed and/or strongest part of the block so the stock bolt there would not be so bad. And you could take the flat washer out; just make sure the bolt does not bottom in the hole in the block. The washer helps to make the bolt torque more consistently but I would not be afraid to eliminate that one and back off the torque a smidge; you still have the ARP lube at that point to help make things torque smoothly. Edit to add: I assume this is not a super high powered engine.I guess if all else fails, use the stock main cap bolts. That kinda defeats the purpose though, doesn't it?
I would be sending ARP a pic. They gotta have a better solution than that.
Am I missing something or is it the height of the entire head the difference?
I've never encountered this but I would think a grade 8 bolt and washer would remedy that?
Throw that bolt thru the ceo's office window.
I thought they did?ARP could easily make a thin headed bolt
I thought they did?
They only send you the short head bolt when you call and complain? Crazy.That's just further proof they should include it in the kit. Crazy to spend that kind of money and have something that doesn't work.
They only send you the short head bolt when you call and complain? Crazy.
As yellowrose stated, installing the crank and other components in the block is the only way to accurately determine your deck height. All your components, even though have a "book" measurement, its often only a reference, and can vary considerably once machined and in your hand because of the +/- production tolerances they have to produce them. The biggest variable is the crank stroke, which can often be off the factory stroke more than you can imagine, NHRA Stock Eliminator and Super Stock rules allow .012" in stroke allowance because they have seen them vary that much straight from Detroit. So, unless its already been reground before and properly indexed and had the stroke corrected. Your deck height can vary significantly from cylinder to cylinder. So until your machinist has all these components in hand and installed in your block, he's only make an assumption.Yeah i plan on bringing my crank and everything in. If he is measuring correctly then ill have to have him pull it out of machine so i can do a mockup
Is there a possiblity i can just mill it doen myself with a 90 degree die grinder with a 60-80 grit sanding disc? Just looking at my options right now.
I am going to try and mill the oil pump a little at my work shhhh lol
But as for the main bolt or stud i contacted them about the issue and sent picture. Im not going to rely on them of course but i would rather not leave the washer off. Kind of at a stand still here. Dont want to go back to my machinist cause he takes long to do anything
Also rusty you have never ran into this problem before?