Your within the desired range, so IMO your good to go.
Engine decking issue(help)
- Thread starter MoparMark91
- Start date
-
No. Your .0015 is the high side of the desired. It's good to go.
MoparMark91
Well-Known Member
Okay thank you i will check one more time just to be sure(even though plastigauge is a pain to remove lol) thank you guys for your input as this had me worried
Make sure you get some that's fresh, too. It's cheap, so......
Also, you measure yours differently than I do. I do them one at a time and turn the crank so it's easy to get to and I don't have to stick the paper down between crank throws. Lastly, I don't know that adding the vasoline didn't change your measurements. Might try without it.
MoparMark91
Well-Known Member
Thank you rusty. Yeah i will try with the throws oriented different and without vaseline. I figure i do them all at once to simulate best way of being bolted together. I have another clevite plasiguage but maybe ill go to store to get new one
Seems like it might make more sense that way, but I honestly don't think it make a difference. I've done it both ways and not seen one.
MoparMark91
Well-Known Member
Is there a easy way to clean off plastiguage and journals? Ive always used oil being afraid to scratch journals
I've always used lint free paper towels. Like shop towels.
MoparMark91
Well-Known Member
So dry paper towels or red shop towels? Also any liquid or solvent?
Wyrmrider
Well-Known Member
no shop towels anywhere near your motor, no scotchbright
use a 0-x oil for good cold flow (even in Arizona) after break in
when cold" that's when most of your wear happens
when hot--oil not only lubricates it cools so flow is important
do not even think about 20-50 unless you are old school 2.5 to 3 or a race build
check your oil pressure
report
use a 0-x oil for good cold flow (even in Arizona) after break in
when cold" that's when most of your wear happens
when hot--oil not only lubricates it cools so flow is important
do not even think about 20-50 unless you are old school 2.5 to 3 or a race build
check your oil pressure
report
Oh hell no not red shop towels those are the worst. The best ones I have found so far is a brand called "Rags". They are paper towels in a yellow box at most parts stores. They work well.
When I said shop towels I was talkin more name brand. I never use cloth. Always paper.
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
This^^^^^^^^ You might get away with a 5 winter grade oil but nothing heavier than a 30 grade. Nothing. So a 0w30 or 5w30 oil. No need for anything else.
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
Fingernails do a great job.
rustycowll69
Well-Known Member
you might try plastic razor blades. They are dirt cheap, and they are made specifically for scraping stuff off without harming the surface.
Plastigauge is oil soluble. It should dissolve if you hit it with some oil and wipe.
Wyrmrider
Well-Known Member
WD-40 (just kidding WD 40 is a water getter mostly and seriously misused as a lube) but it would work here
MoparMark91
Well-Known Member
Has anyone ever used brake cleaner or carb cleaner?
furrystump
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Nov 13, 2004
- Messages
- 2,103
- Reaction score
- 1,701
Finger nail, a spritz with brake clean onto a lint free rag.
mygasser
Well-Known Member
Just a quickie, Burt Monroe was from new Zealand not AustraliaNo disrespect to anyone, Look up the movie The Indian it is a true story about an Australian Indian motorcycle owner who came to America to run Bonneville and broke records with hand made parts.....
It all started in back alley shops and garages and has evolved into high tech high dollar equipment and formulas... doesnt mean the "old"ways are wrong and the "new" ways are better maybe they just get faster results. Old school Max Wedge Cross Rams dont work on paper (look it up) but they still whip ***! Put the gloves away and go racing
I never understood this. I have always run 20w-50 or straight 30 in anything from a 64 Barracuda to a 96 Neon to a 2001 Jeep Cherokee. Hundreds of thousands of street miles in FL, SD, MD, SC. Hardly any wear on any part and the motors run like new for ever. I also get better mpg than most people. Isky says not to run thin oil on flat tappet cams. I'm not buying the thin oil argument in the everyday street world. Just food for thought...
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
There is never a reason to run a single grade oil. Ever. As to the 20w50, it depends. If you like loose bearing clearances, and you run full groove bearings and a standard pump then maybe that heavy oil is good.
Heavy oil flows less, cools less (a big deal) and requires more clearance to do the same work as a lower grade oil.
That's why there is a benefit to heavy blocks that don't move around, rods that stay as round as possible, and a quality damper. If you do that, you can loosen up the clearances and use a 5w30 that will flow and cool better.
As an exception to the above, if you are running alcohol based fuels everything goes out the widow. People either forget or don't know, oil is the number one thing that seals the rings. Depending on the power level you may need a 50 grade (or higher) oil to seal the rings. And never use a Group IV or V oil with alcohol based fuels.
Wyrmrider
Well-Known Member
good food for thought 66
OIL CHANGES ALL THE TIME Mobil one just reformulated
go to the data sheets and look at additives that will tell you if you can use an oil of any weight as the weight is just one component
in SC you can get away with lots that cold weather folks can't
you can check the specs or test yourself
take that 30 and put a cup in the fridge and see how long it takes to pour through a small funnel
do it in a double boiler to get 212 and time it
save the times
now try a 0w-30
It will pour cold or hot about the same as your hot thirty weight
there will be little difference in the hot pour times
and since most wear comes when cold when the oil is thick try and minimise my wife uses a EO heater
You probably know this but for the record
do not idle to get oil temp up water will warm but oil will stay cold like forever just drive easy and take your foot off the gas and coast a few times to suck some oil past the rings and guides even worse with a carb and the choke on
Me I live right next to the Southern California freeways and have no problem with the 0W-40 getting on the freeway and merging high speed after few blocks
OIL CHANGES ALL THE TIME Mobil one just reformulated
go to the data sheets and look at additives that will tell you if you can use an oil of any weight as the weight is just one component
in SC you can get away with lots that cold weather folks can't
you can check the specs or test yourself
take that 30 and put a cup in the fridge and see how long it takes to pour through a small funnel
do it in a double boiler to get 212 and time it
save the times
now try a 0w-30
It will pour cold or hot about the same as your hot thirty weight
there will be little difference in the hot pour times
and since most wear comes when cold when the oil is thick try and minimise my wife uses a EO heater
You probably know this but for the record
do not idle to get oil temp up water will warm but oil will stay cold like forever just drive easy and take your foot off the gas and coast a few times to suck some oil past the rings and guides even worse with a carb and the choke on
Me I live right next to the Southern California freeways and have no problem with the 0W-40 getting on the freeway and merging high speed after few blocks
I've lived in South Dakota also, but I ran 10w-30 when it got real cold, -20 degrees F. I ran the same 20w-50 in a neon with it's tight clearances. 250,000 miles on the clock, still runs like the day I bought it. Of course they all had very regular changes.
Mr. Sinister
Devastation Manager
My appoligy Sir and thank you for the correction.Just a quickie, Burt Monroe was from new Zealand not Australia
-
