Engine decking issue(help)

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So got the arp bolts the guy sent to replace for rear main. Still doesnt clear the oil pump so i think ill have to grind a little away on oil pump housing. Also will have to untorque the mains as i didnt check the thrust clearance or knock it forward:BangHead:.
The crank did spin fair just not super easy. Same with cam after i installed.

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That's going to be a lot of grinding on that pump housing. I hope there's enough meat there.

I SWEAR it's things just like THIS that make guys switch to Chevy. Everything bolts right on those with no problems. It's really a wonder there are still as many Mopar guys around as there are, given the piss poor support we get.
 
RustyRatRod said:
That's going to be a lot of grinding on that pump housing. I hope there's enough meat there.

I SWEAR it's things just like THIS that make guys switch to Chevy. Everything bolts right on those with no problems. It's really a wonder there are still as many Mopar guys around as there are, given the piss poor support we get.
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The stud was way worse but any ideas or advise on this? This is the bolt arp sent me to replace the stud
 
MoparMark91 said:
The stud was way worse but any ideas or advise on this? This is the bolt arp sent me to replace the stud
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I have no idea. I've not run into this. I've seen it a lot. It just chaps my *** that manufacturers know these problems exist and refuse to do anything about it. Where that step goes into the main cap is supposed to fit flush, I believe and in order to do that, you have a lot of material to remove. I hope the pump body is thick enough.
 
I guess if all else fails, use the stock main cap bolts. That kinda defeats the purpose though, doesn't it?
 
RustyRatRod said:
I guess if all else fails, use the stock main cap bolts. That kinda defeats the purpose though, doesn't it?
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Seems to me that is one of the least stressed and/or strongest part of the block so the stock bolt there would not be so bad. And you could take the flat washer out; just make sure the bolt does not bottom in the hole in the block. The washer helps to make the bolt torque more consistently but I would not be afraid to eliminate that one and back off the torque a smidge; you still have the ARP lube at that point to help make things torque smoothly. Edit to add: I assume this is not a super high powered engine.
 
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I would be sending ARP a pic. They gotta have a better solution than that.
Am I missing something or is it the height of the entire head the difference?
I've never encountered this but I would think a grade 8 bolt and washer would remedy that?
Throw that bolt thru the ceo's office window.
 
4spdragtop said:
I would be sending ARP a pic. They gotta have a better solution than that.
Am I missing something or is it the height of the entire head the difference?
I've never encountered this but I would think a grade 8 bolt and washer would remedy that?
Throw that bolt thru the ceo's office window.
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The entire head, plus that stupid fancy made on flare and maybe a little more. It's ridiculous we as the Mopar community have to put up with this when stuff fits great for Chevy guys. ARP could easily make a thin headed bolt there with an allen recess. Problem solved.
 
The best way is to spot face the cap, but that entails bringing it to a machine shop. If it were mine I would remove the washer and lube the under side of the bolt shoulder. Torque it to spec.just make sure the chamfer on the bolt fits in the hole. I don’t want it expanding the hole.
 
Post 139. Either remove the cap and take it to a machine shop and let them mill it down (I've been milling the caps off since 1984 when I first started using main studs) or take that washer off and leave it off.

If you have to, you can grind a bit off the head of the bolt. If you have .020 clearance that's plenty.
 
MoparMark91 said:
Yeah i plan on bringing my crank and everything in. If he is measuring correctly then ill have to have him pull it out of machine so i can do a mockup
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As yellowrose stated, installing the crank and other components in the block is the only way to accurately determine your deck height. All your components, even though have a "book" measurement, its often only a reference, and can vary considerably once machined and in your hand because of the +/- production tolerances they have to produce them. The biggest variable is the crank stroke, which can often be off the factory stroke more than you can imagine, NHRA Stock Eliminator and Super Stock rules allow .012" in stroke allowance because they have seen them vary that much straight from Detroit. So, unless its already been reground before and properly indexed and had the stroke corrected. Your deck height can vary significantly from cylinder to cylinder. So until your machinist has all these components in hand and installed in your block, he's only make an assumption.
 
Is there a possiblity i can just mill it doen myself with a 90 degree die grinder with a 60-80 grit sanding disc? Just looking at my options right now.
I am going to try and mill the oil pump a little at my work shhhh lol
But as for the main bolt or stud i contacted them about the issue and sent picture. Im not going to rely on them of course but i would rather not leave the washer off. Kind of at a stand still here. Dont want to go back to my machinist cause he takes long to do anything

Also rusty you have never ran into this problem before?
 
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That's funny
all my stock cranks were .010 long and none short
that's :)
It takes a really good crankgrinder to index a crank without taking much off

as for the interference- that's been a problem for years
 
MoparMark91 said:
Is there a possiblity i can just mill it doen myself with a 90 degree die grinder with a 60-80 grit sanding disc? Just looking at my options right now.
I am going to try and mill the oil pump a little at my work shhhh lol
But as for the main bolt or stud i contacted them about the issue and sent picture. Im not going to rely on them of course but i would rather not leave the washer off. Kind of at a stand still here. Dont want to go back to my machinist cause he takes long to do anything

Also rusty you have never ran into this problem before?
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I wouldn't do that. The bolt spot face really needs to be parallel with the mating surface. If you are off even a small amount, it will side load the bolt, could bend it and will most likely make the cap out of round.

Nor will you ever get it flat doing it that way.

Can't you ditch the washer and maybe grind a small bit off the head of the bolt and get your clearance? That would be the only home fix I would do
 
I just looked at your picture again, and from that it looks like the washer being gone would fix it. That bolt has a built in washer. No reason to do more than you have to.
 
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