Stop in for a cup of coffee

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No such thing as random in this thread

9AB0DB6F-7BD3-4755-A6FB-123E4051CB60.jpeg
 
I have never seen a gas station, tire place or work shop in Norway using a torque wrench, they always use a air thing with this hammering function, whatever you call it and then a long thin torsion bar with a socket on the end. The torsion bar has the precise strength for right torque for that particular socket and nut / bolt size. And that is all they use. It goes in, and they start hammering until the nut stops moving and that is it.

When I do it myself I have learned over the years what feeling I am looking for, and then drive for a couple of days, pop the hub caps and try again. If some of them are a little.loose, I torque by hand again as much as the first time, and then it always hold. Until I need to change tire again, so 2 times a year since we change between the summer and winter.

Bill
A "torque stick"
 
I have never seen a gas station, tire place or work shop in Norway using a torque wrench, they always use a air thing with this hammering function, whatever you call it and then a long thin torsion bar with a socket on the end. The torsion bar has the precise strength for right torque for that particular socket and nut / bolt size. And that is all they use. It goes in, and they start hammering until the nut stops moving and that is it.
Those are torque limiting sockets TMM and I were talking about..
were, until someone posted a very distracting fish tank,
or was it gun safety,
I forget now.
:lol:
 
Ok. I need to do some measuring, marking, cutting, ripping and planing. Pretty much in that order.
 
In the photo it looks like the break at 12:00 is oxidized, as is the one at 3:30.
But the one at 5:00 is half bright - maybe the last one to let go? Take a close look, an over torqued should show some necking down and twisting.
View attachment 1715412699

Where did those wheel studs come from?
they're factory installed studs. will do thanks. I'll try to get some better pics, but looking at them, its like they cracked and let water down into them, maybe weakened over time and then just gave way? We did just get below freezing for the first time this year. I don't see any necking or twisting at all. its like a rusty, but clean sheer like we see when we sheer pins on a combine or hay cutter.

next your going to tell me half of them ended up on the side of the road.

probably right.
probably. whats wierd is I just hand washed this thing on Sunday, they were all there then.

That depends which wheel this is. Not sure if he said.
left rear
 
Mornin yall. Didn't mean to be neglectin. Been kinda busy the last couple days helpin a friend move a car to a restoration shop from a thief shop.
 
Man I am unlucky and lucky at the same time. Started getting a real bad vibration about halfway to work. Pulled over to find 4 out of 5 lug studs completely broken off and missing. This all at 65 mph. Could have been very very bad. So now I wait for a tow

View attachment 1715412668
Here is why i firmly believe in a torque wrench. i torque to spec,road test and retorque.
the mating surface between wheel and hub rotor or drum must be reasonably clean. i am curious what the back of the rim looks like.im betting its crusty.(edit) Chris im glad you got it stopped safely.
I lost a set of duals on a water tanker,1700 gallons,i was travelling at 113 kph, as fast as the truck would go when it started feeling mushy. The studs sheared and the duals hung on the center hub until i got stopped. Scary.
 
View attachment 1715412700 And now for something totally unrelated, call it a gun geek tech tip. I am teaching a handgun course in near future and will have a bunch of different styles of handguns for demonstration. Single action, double action, striker fire, 1911 etc etc. so when teaching I like to always use safety flags in the bores so all students know firearm is unloaded. I did not have enough flags and was to cheap to purchase more at 5-7 dollars each. A bit of weed eater string and a wire nut did the trick.
A question O'Wise One.. Right handed. Left eye dominant... What's best way to shoot?
 
I have never seen a gas station, tire place or work shop in Norway using a torque wrench, they always use a air thing with this hammering function, whatever you call it and then a long thin torsion bar with a socket on the end. The torsion bar has the precise strength for right torque for that particular socket and nut / bolt size. And that is all they use. It goes in, and they start hammering until the nut stops moving and that is it.

When I do it myself I have learned over the years what feeling I am looking for, and then drive for a couple of days, pop the hub caps and try again. If some of them are a little.loose, I torque by hand again as much as the first time, and then it always hold. Until I need to change tire again, so 2 times a year since we change between the summer and winter.

Bill
I dont trust the torque bars. Or dog bones. Whatever they are called. A properly torqued wheel nut wont break or come loose. But leave the corrosion on the back of the wheel and i can guarantee a failure.
 
Chris, you are both lucky and unlucky at the same time. You do have the worst luck sometimes......Those studs were over torqued...No question. NOW if they were to "factory" torque, makes no difference. They were still over tightened...At one time or another, might not have been you.....
 
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Oh, I forgot. I have liked to use something for the nuts to not rust and not get stuck, and to get stuck! :)

I have taken old fashioned wood tar, you know the kind you get from pine tree roots, and then mix with a little kerosene to make it fairly thin, and then I use a paper towel to dip in the mix and squeeze on the studs, and then put the nuts on. The result is that the tar prevents it from rusting and get totally stuck. When the kerosene evaporates the tar will semi dry, and the nuts will never rattle loose again, sort of get stuck. Next time you take them off, they go sort of a little tight when taking them off, but I put new one on before putting them back on, so it is easy to get them on. It is a little messy, but the result is outstanding.

Bill
Interesting...
 
Nothing on wheel studs. Motor oil ir something lighter.
Guy i worked with would grease,and hammer until they stopped. One particular car i was bouncing on a 6 foot cheater to break nuts loose. They actually galled im the aluminum on the taper. I was livid.
Anti-sieze-same thing. aircraft guys know the difference between wet and dry torque.
there is a difference.
 
A
Oh, I forgot. I have liked to use something for the nuts to not rust and not get stuck, and to get stuck! :)

I have taken old fashioned wood tar, you know the kind you get from pine tree roots, and then mix with a little kerosene to make it fairly thin, and then I use a paper towel to dip in the mix and squeeze on the studs, and then put the nuts on. The result is that the tar prevents it from rusting and get totally stuck. When the kerosene evaporates the tar will semi dry, and the nuts will never rattle loose again, sort of get stuck. Next time you take them off, they go sort of a little tight when taking them off, but I put new one on before putting them back on, so it is easy to get them on. It is a little messy, but the result is outstanding.

Bill
Nothing on wheel studs. Motor oil ir something lighter.
Guy i worked with would grease,and hammer until they stopped. One particular car i was bouncing on a 6 foot cheater to break nuts loose. They actually galled im the aluminum on the taper. I was livid.
Anti-sieze-same thing. aircraft guys know the difference between wet and dry torque.
there is a difference.
yep, some torques are with lube. but not wheels. That tar goop sounds like something that might be good to paint on contact areas before mounting an aluminum wheels. They will corrode and make you wish it was only rusted fast.
 
Long before i was a certified mechanic, this being one example i used. I said to my employer " if this is what a certified mechanic is, i dont want to be one"
There were two ticketed guys i worked with,i learned from their mistakes. My comeback rate is near zero.
The ford dealer i worked at was struggling,big general meeting and mangement wanted to know why comebacks were near 50%.
I was a service writer,and witnessed the **** work.one tech was busting his *** fixing all the screw ups,where he should have been a lead tech and could oversee the work and nip problems in the bud. He left and so did i.
 
Long before i was a certified mechanic, this being one example i used. I said to my employer " if this is what a certified mechanic is, i dont want to be one"
There were two ticketed guys i worked with,i learned from their mistakes. My comeback rate is near zero.
The ford dealer i worked at was struggling,big general meeting and mangement wanted to know why comebacks were near 50%.
I was a service writer,and witnessed the **** work.one tech was busting his *** fixing all the screw ups,where he should have been a lead tech and could oversee the work and nip problems in the bud. He left and so did i.
Sounds like the 2 screw-ups were tight with the management. And you were the rain on their parade.
 
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