Stop in for a cup of coffee

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Never did show a picture of the backside of the wheel...i still wanna see..
Destroyed. Last stud broke loading it on the trailer.

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Just need to consider your audience when speaking. Unless you have authority or put something out as ‘knowledgeable’ info, I don’t see a problem. As said we are just kicking ideas around. Not writing a ‘how to’. And maybe some of it is your zip code. Not saying some people aren't out to sue around here, but I'm not afraid to talk...

The month I spent in Wisconsin in 2004 was like night and day to what I experience here. Completely opposite. Even the traffic is like night and day. But visiting here in 2012 when we were going back was also different than moving here permanently. Then I was treated like a tourist. When I moved here I became an intruder. An unwanted pain in the tush. :D

It is a lot of that in Norway too. It is like, oh, come and visit our beautiful country, oh you have moved here, we'll make your life miserable. And this is part of why I have lost all confidence in mass immigration and that it will work out and people will intermingle. We are closest to our own nation. Then it is our own state, our own county, our own city, our own street, our own race, our own family, our own household. We can call it sad or whatever, but I think this is a natural defense mechanism in all human beings. I don't think it is because of hate or ill will. We are just defending our self, from way back in time. Sometimes it might look like hate, but I don't think hate is what fuels it. And I don't think any law or program from the government about how to behave can change it. The only way to get it better is to live by the golden rule of treating others the way you want to be treated yourself. We all fail on that one, still we see the point of it.

Bill
 
What happened to the page view on this site? Joey was doing some sort of test earlier and now I have an “Upcoming Car Shows and Events” box pinned to the upper right in every thread and forum cutting the viewable area of the replies to half width. All the pictures are equally resized to half size.

No such alteration here Dd

Now I noticed while scrolling down page of threads, the little preview of the first post in the thread is odd. Horizontally short and vertically long, like 3 words per line.
 
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This pic tells me everything.

The outer band indicates that the stud was over-torqued at some point causing a circumferential fracture that is evidenced by the corrosssion in the outer band.

The inner “clean metal” core was then torqued to the level indicated for the entire diameter stud...but being only half that size with diameter reduced by the previous fracture, it was also way over torqued for its true diameter resulting in sudden catastrophic failure.

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No such alteration here Dd

Now I noticed while scrolling down page of threads, the little preview of the first post in the thread is odd. Horizontally short and vertically long, like 3 words per line.
This is what I see on my iPad. You can see the text area is narrower and therefore taller. Since pictures are sized horizontally, they are equally compressed.

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So I’m gonna use your chart, 1/2-20 are the studs. I’ll torque them to 75
A couple other possibilities, (1) dirt or such in the threads (2) rim not flat against the hub during tightening (which Frank already mentioned one way that can happen).

The whole goal of the torque spec is a tround about way to make sure there is enough spring force created that the fastener will not loosen.
The spring force is my way of describing the tension in the bolt. We're working in the steel's elastic range, and trying very hard not to accidently exceed it (yield point).
We can't measure the tension in the fastener directly, but can make a pretty good estimate knowing the thread angles. But this assumes a clean thread.

Also, if you think about it, this clamping force can not have a softer material or gap in between. If it does, then in use the actual tension on bolt will vary greatly and causing it to loosen even more (or get fretted and shear).
This is why its real important to seat each wheel nut, and then do a light tightening in the start pattern, then do the final torquing.
 
This pic tells me everything.

The outer band indicates that the stud was over-torqued at some point causing a circumferential fracture that is evidenced by the corrosssion in the outer band.

The inner “clean metal” core was then torqued to the level indicated for the entire diameter stud...but being only half that size with diameter reduced by the previous fracture, it was also way over torqued for its true diameter resulting in sudden catastrophic failure.

View attachment 1715412913
With corrosion buildup the torque is "false" for all intents and purposes. The corrosion crumbles and wheel is essentially loose.it cannot be properly torqued,and stud is compromised. I have torqued thousands of lug nuts,99.99% with a torque wrench. If i forget to clean a scaly wheel i can feel it isnt right. Pull wheel and sure enough its corroded. this is a non issue with steel wheels.
 
This pic tells me everything.

The outer band indicates that the stud was over-torqued at some point causing a circumferential fracture that is evidenced by the corrosssion in the outer band.

The inner “clean metal” core was then torqued to the level indicated for the entire diameter stud...but being only half that size with diameter reduced by the previous fracture, it was also way over torqued for its true diameter resulting in sudden catastrophic failure.

View attachment 1715412913

I most likely need to replace all my studs on my Dart. When I got new tires, the guy torqued them to 55 foot pounds, but when the wrench clicked he did not stop. Some of them I think he continued like 30-60 degrees extra. What is the point of a torque wrench then. It was a huge torque wrench, at least 3 feet long, maybe more. Like for a truck with a lot bigger studs.

Bill
 
This is what I see on my iPad. You can see the text area is narrower and therefore taller. Since pictures are sized horizontally, they are equally compressed.

View attachment 1715412914
OK. That's the same as I'm seeing on the desktop. Only difference is its a big screen so wasn't so annoying.
Foxfire browser on Win 7pro
 
Geesh 6 pages talking about Chris's nuts. I have been driving now 50 years legally and changing tires at least another 10. I use Keith's method and have never had a problem. I know I know torque them. And tomorrow I will probably loose a wheel too.
 
I most likely need to replace all my studs on my Dart. When I got new tires, the guy torqued them to 55 foot pounds, but when the wrench clicked he did not stop. Some of them I think he continued like 30-60 degrees extra. What is the point of a torque wrench then. It was a huge torque wrench, at least 3 feet long, maybe more. Like for a truck with a lot bigger studs.

Bill
Not to mention the torque wrench calibration will likely be comprimised if this how he torques wheels.
Somewhere many moons ago i read about properly torquing fasteners, that isnt it. And neither is brutally yanking on a torque wrench. Average torque wrench is good for 1000 clicks. I have mine checked regularily.
 
Bolt stretch...proper torque is all about proper bolt stretch to maintain the correct tension on the fastener.

You can’t properly stretch a bolt that is compromised nor can you properly stretch it if the substrate it sits on is compromised. Tension will alway be false in either case.
 
Bolt stretch...proper torque is all about proper bolt stretch to maintain the correct tension on the fastener.

You can’t properly stretch a bolt that is compromised nor can you properly stretch it if the substrate it sits on is compromised. Tension will alway be false in either case.

80% - 85% of clamp load and torque is affected by the surface friction on the threads and under side of the head of the bolt/nut...

Every time a bolt or stud is torqued, it receives some degree of permanent stretch... Eventually that stretch adds up and will compromise the integrity of the bolt/stud...


On connecting rod bolts fastener engineering allowed only 5 torque cycles and then recommended that they be scrapped after that... we left two torque cycles for outside the plant, one for service, and one for rebuild - however that didn't account for plastic gauge...

So we were only allowed to torque a rod and cap twice on the assembly line because they already had one torque/clamp cycle when the rod and cap were machined on the rod machining line... So we could only re-use a connecting rod once before having to scrap it at the engine factory...
 
I have the same issue on my iPad DD.
I pinged Joey in his test thread. We will see if he responds. For now, it is just pissing me off.

It’s the same shrinking of thread view that happens when ads are present before logging in as a Gold Member. The only difference is this “upcoming events” box is the only thing that appears rather than that plus all the ads.
 
A question O'Wise One.. Right handed. Left eye dominant... What's best way to shoot?
Oddly enough I face this problem daily. Are we talking pistol or rifle? If it is pistol you can easily resolve with both eyes open and a reflex sight, (red dot). If it is rifle you have two choices shoot with non dominate eye or become a switch hitter and shoot with weak side. It really depends on how bad your eyesight is one side to the other. If you are reasonably close it is frankly easier to shoot weak eye strong hand.
 
Oddly enough I face this problem daily. Are we talking pistol or rifle? If it is pistol you can easily resolve with both eyes open and a reflex sight, (red dot). If it is rifle you have two choices shoot with non dominate eye or become a switch hitter and shoot with weak side. It really depends on how bad your eyesight is one side to the other. If you are reasonably close it is frankly easier to shoot weak eye strong hand.
Oh hell, just pull the trigger repeatedly until the magazine is empty...you are bound to hit something.

:lol:
 
Geesh 6 pages talking about Chris's nuts. I have been driving now 50 years legally and changing tires at least another 10. I use Keith's method and have never had a problem. I know I know torque them. And tomorrow I will probably loose a wheel too.
lol first time I’ve ever had an issue either. I think when I bought new tires last March, they may have over tightened them just enough to lightly crack. Allowing water to corrode them to failure
 
80% - 85% of clamp load and torque is affected by the surface friction on the threads and under side of the head of the bolt/nut...

Every time a bolt or stud is torqued, it receives some degree of permanent stretch... Eventually that stretch adds up and will compromise the integrity of the bolt/stud...


On connecting rod bolts fastener engineering allowed only 5 torque cycles and then recommended that they be scrapped after that... we left two torque cycles for outside the plant, one for service, and one for rebuild - however that didn't account for plastic gauge...

So we were only allowed to torque a rod and cap twice on the assembly line because they already had one torque/clamp cycle when the rod and cap were machined on the rod machining line... So we could only re-use a connecting rod once before having to scrap it at the engine factory...

Probably why it’s so highly recommended to replace those during rebuilds
 
John @Sublime one ,

One of my best friends from High School was a Marine and did a tour in Beruit immediately before and immediately after the bomb attack on the Marines.

He saw the before and after and shared it with me often in real time back then.

It is an event in Marine history that I will never forget.
 
I contacted ARP, they are in the process of possibly offering more lug studs and jeeps are on the list
 
lol first time I’ve ever had an issue either. I think when I bought new tires last March, they may have over tightened them just enough to lightly crack. Allowing water to corrode them to failure
stretching before cracking.
 
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