Ben Drinkin
Hey bartender!
And then retorque then after about 25 miles.So I’m gonna use your chart, 1/2-20 are the studs. I’ll torque them to 75
And then retorque then after about 25 miles.So I’m gonna use your chart, 1/2-20 are the studs. I’ll torque them to 75
Destroyed. Last stud broke loading it on the trailer.Never did show a picture of the backside of the wheel...i still wanna see..
Just need to consider your audience when speaking. Unless you have authority or put something out as ‘knowledgeable’ info, I don’t see a problem. As said we are just kicking ideas around. Not writing a ‘how to’. And maybe some of it is your zip code. Not saying some people aren't out to sue around here, but I'm not afraid to talk...
What happened to the page view on this site? Joey was doing some sort of test earlier and now I have an “Upcoming Car Shows and Events” box pinned to the upper right in every thread and forum cutting the viewable area of the replies to half width. All the pictures are equally resized to half size.
This is what I see on my iPad. You can see the text area is narrower and therefore taller. Since pictures are sized horizontally, they are equally compressed.No such alteration here Dd
Now I noticed while scrolling down page of threads, the little preview of the first post in the thread is odd. Horizontally short and vertically long, like 3 words per line.
A couple other possibilities, (1) dirt or such in the threads (2) rim not flat against the hub during tightening (which Frank already mentioned one way that can happen).So I’m gonna use your chart, 1/2-20 are the studs. I’ll torque them to 75
With corrosion buildup the torque is "false" for all intents and purposes. The corrosion crumbles and wheel is essentially loose.it cannot be properly torqued,and stud is compromised. I have torqued thousands of lug nuts,99.99% with a torque wrench. If i forget to clean a scaly wheel i can feel it isnt right. Pull wheel and sure enough its corroded. this is a non issue with steel wheels.This pic tells me everything.
The outer band indicates that the stud was over-torqued at some point causing a circumferential fracture that is evidenced by the corrosssion in the outer band.
The inner “clean metal” core was then torqued to the level indicated for the entire diameter stud...but being only half that size with diameter reduced by the previous fracture, it was also way over torqued for its true diameter resulting in sudden catastrophic failure.
View attachment 1715412913
This pic tells me everything.
The outer band indicates that the stud was over-torqued at some point causing a circumferential fracture that is evidenced by the corrosssion in the outer band.
The inner “clean metal” core was then torqued to the level indicated for the entire diameter stud...but being only half that size with diameter reduced by the previous fracture, it was also way over torqued for its true diameter resulting in sudden catastrophic failure.
View attachment 1715412913
OK. That's the same as I'm seeing on the desktop. Only difference is its a big screen so wasn't so annoying.This is what I see on my iPad. You can see the text area is narrower and therefore taller. Since pictures are sized horizontally, they are equally compressed.
View attachment 1715412914
Not to mention the torque wrench calibration will likely be comprimised if this how he torques wheels.I most likely need to replace all my studs on my Dart. When I got new tires, the guy torqued them to 55 foot pounds, but when the wrench clicked he did not stop. Some of them I think he continued like 30-60 degrees extra. What is the point of a torque wrench then. It was a huge torque wrench, at least 3 feet long, maybe more. Like for a truck with a lot bigger studs.
Bill
it really doesnt matter too much if the insides are bigger.
I have the same issue on my iPad DD.This is what I see on my iPad. You can see the text area is narrower and therefore taller. Since pictures are sized horizontally, they are equally compressed.
View attachment 1715412914
Bolt stretch...proper torque is all about proper bolt stretch to maintain the correct tension on the fastener.
You can’t properly stretch a bolt that is compromised nor can you properly stretch it if the substrate it sits on is compromised. Tension will alway be false in either case.
I pinged Joey in his test thread. We will see if he responds. For now, it is just pissing me off.I have the same issue on my iPad DD.
Oddly enough I face this problem daily. Are we talking pistol or rifle? If it is pistol you can easily resolve with both eyes open and a reflex sight, (red dot). If it is rifle you have two choices shoot with non dominate eye or become a switch hitter and shoot with weak side. It really depends on how bad your eyesight is one side to the other. If you are reasonably close it is frankly easier to shoot weak eye strong hand.A question O'Wise One.. Right handed. Left eye dominant... What's best way to shoot?
Oh hell, just pull the trigger repeatedly until the magazine is empty...you are bound to hit something.Oddly enough I face this problem daily. Are we talking pistol or rifle? If it is pistol you can easily resolve with both eyes open and a reflex sight, (red dot). If it is rifle you have two choices shoot with non dominate eye or become a switch hitter and shoot with weak side. It really depends on how bad your eyesight is one side to the other. If you are reasonably close it is frankly easier to shoot weak eye strong hand.
lol first time I’ve ever had an issue either. I think when I bought new tires last March, they may have over tightened them just enough to lightly crack. Allowing water to corrode them to failureGeesh 6 pages talking about Chris's nuts. I have been driving now 50 years legally and changing tires at least another 10. I use Keith's method and have never had a problem. I know I know torque them. And tomorrow I will probably loose a wheel too.
80% - 85% of clamp load and torque is affected by the surface friction on the threads and under side of the head of the bolt/nut...
Every time a bolt or stud is torqued, it receives some degree of permanent stretch... Eventually that stretch adds up and will compromise the integrity of the bolt/stud...
On connecting rod bolts fastener engineering allowed only 5 torque cycles and then recommended that they be scrapped after that... we left two torque cycles for outside the plant, one for service, and one for rebuild - however that didn't account for plastic gauge...
So we were only allowed to torque a rod and cap twice on the assembly line because they already had one torque/clamp cycle when the rod and cap were machined on the rod machining line... So we could only re-use a connecting rod once before having to scrap it at the engine factory...
stretching before cracking.lol first time I’ve ever had an issue either. I think when I bought new tires last March, they may have over tightened them just enough to lightly crack. Allowing water to corrode them to failure