360 street cam for 'the usual upgrades'

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paulclark

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I just scored a good 360 junkyard motor for my 65 Barracuda and thinking about a cam swap before installation. I've read a lot of cam recommendation threads and for sure I see that there a zillion possibilities depending on what your combination is and how you want to use it. And granted, the best answer is to call the experts and let them tell you.

I'm posting here though, because it seems like my combination is a pretty common one, and my usage is a pretty common one as well. I'm bolting on the usual stuff, and I want to -feel- fast but honestly there will be zero track time, no actual stoplight brawls. Once upon a time I thought I wanted to go fast, but now with age I realize it's all about the experience, and mine means normal driving but 'with spirit'.

As some have pointed out, for the street you can't go far wrong with stock. Except - I'm running a little bit warmed over stuff, headers and AVS and 3.55's. Nothing fancy, but probably pretty close to what a lot of you have run in the past. I'm guessing what I really need will be a common off-the-shelf cam. So I'm asking - what worked for you for a mild hot rod cam in the real world?

Here's my info:
-360 from a 77 B-van, stock internals, heads and valvetrain.
-Offy '360' intake with an AVS
-Spitfire headers with duals and Commando resonators
-10.5" clutch and 833 4-speed
-8 3/4" with 3.55 gears
-Small tires - 190 60R14s if memory serves.

Usage:
-Cruising
-Zero track time
-No actual stoplight duels
-I like to rumble around at low RPM, so the 360's torque is welcome
-Would like to be able to drive on the hiway with those short gears too so it would be nice to not kill width of power band
-Sound is good, both at idle and revving
-Feeling cool is more important than actual measurable performance, TBH

Another detail - I have two 65 cudas, the other one is a 273/ 833OD car with 2.79 rear end. That one is the daily driver, this one is the 'hot rod'. So I don't need one car to do everything, but the idea is complementary opposites.

bcudarear2.jpg

Pic is an old one, back when it had a 318 and copcar wheels.

Any suggestions from your experience?
 
The Lunati VooDoo 268. Everybody hollers Comp 268 but the Lunati version is a better grind.
 
Ah, looks like more lift and a little higher RPM but a little more range

Lunati 268:
Basic Operating RPM Range: 1,800-6,200
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift: 226
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift: 234
Duration at 050 inch Lift: 226 int./234 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration: 268
Advertised Exhaust Duration: 276
Advertised Duration: 268 int./276 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.494 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.513 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.494 int./0.513 exh.
Lobe Separation (degrees): 110

Comp 268:
Basic Operating RPM Range: 1,600-5,800
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift: 224
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift: 230
Duration at 050 inch Lift: 224 int./230 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration: 268
Advertised Exhaust Duration: 280
Advertised Duration: 268 int./280 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.477 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.480 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.477 int./0.480 exh.
Lobe Separation (degrees): 110
 
I think those are good recommendations. You could even go down a step in cam size. IF you had an automatic trans, there is one question for you guys that have one. Is changing a torque converter out to a higher stall in the plan’s or OK with you?

From my experience on what I have done with otherwise dead stock engines and cam swaps is that the torque converter is good to go if the cam is kept small. The only difference in what I have done vs. your current ride is tire size, which helps allow a larger cam. My smallest tire was still larger than what you have now.

To that end, this set of combinations has been used;

‘79 - 318 with bolt on’s w/a 904, stock converter, 215/70/15 tires & 3.21 gears used a cam of 218/226@050 under .500 lift with no converter change worked well.

10.8-1 - 360 uses a (Hyd. roller) cam of 226/234@050 w/3.55 gears and 26 inch tires with a 2500 stall.

Now back to the fact you have a 4spd trans!

*I think* you can get away with RRR cam recommendation and no converter change out due to the small tire. I myself, playing it safe and since you have a low compression engine would opt. for the first and smaller cam I mentioned above. It’ll make power to 5500 with the rest of the bolt on parts listed and spin tires for yards and yards.

The biggest issue is the low compression of the engine.
Adjusting that cheaply would be head milling (and probably the intake there after) to get a bit more squeeze in there. This keeps the engine and cam combo efficient and torque up. It will not have that soft soggy low end which would be short lived with small cams but ever present.
 
Raising the compression is an interesting idea. I don't suppose there's a thinner head gasket option? Time to search old posts and educate myself.
 
Looks like a good candidate for a Comp 268H(as opposed to the XE268).

A couple things to consider......
The recommended springs for the VooDoo cams are duals, so..... some machining req’d.
Also, the nearly .500 lift may require shortening of the guides for retainer to seal clearance.

The 268H uses drop in springs and the lift works without interference issues.
 
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Mopar makes a single spring that will work with the lunati
Call Mancini racing they can help.
I use to know the part number, but I forgot ?
 
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One is slower, smoother, quieter, has less lift, and is easier on parts.

The other is the opposite of that, but will act a little bigger in the motor...... and has the potential to make a little more power.

If you decided to go with the XE or VooDoo line, you’d be better off stepping down one size for that application.
 
My friend has a comp 270h in his Duster and it works really nice...but he has some pistons with a bit more squeeze than stock in it.
 
what prh said about stepping down one size with the voodoo
but what Rusty said about the voodoo being better than any comp grind
the quieter mentioned is clue
The h line is even older than the xe line at comp
the Xe and voodoo were both designed by the same designer years apart with his experience with ultradyne in the middle
during that time he added additional polynominals to his design and more paramaters to his poynominals and a more powerful computer
Lunati sells two versions of his designs for mopar billets
one is the same as the Chevy design- it out performs the comp chevy grind- I forget what they call it
the mopar version is the Voodoo line and they outperform the chevy profiles
As said, easy to use too much spring- like Hughes
cut the guides for viton seals
do it right
 
what prh said about stepping down one size with the voodoo
but what Rusty said about the voodoo being better than any comp grind
the quieter mentioned is clue
The h line is even older than the xe line at comp
the Xe and voodoo were both designed by the same designer years apart with his experience with ultradyne in the middle
during that time he added additional polynominals to his design and more paramaters to his poynominals and a more powerful computer
Lunati sells two versions of his designs for mopar billets
one is the same as the Chevy design- it out performs the comp chevy grind- I forget what they call it
the mopar version is the Voodoo line and they outperform the chevy profiles
As said, easy to use too much spring- like Hughes
cut the guides for viton seals
do it right

Here we go, thank you. Much good experience all around and this puts it all together.

What is the Lunati voodoo one step less than 268?

That and a step thinner head gasket might be the right well-rounded warm over.

viton valve guide seals - I'm sold. And there's gotta be a thread on it. Much appreciated.
 
This cam below and a worthless FWIW, this is as big as I would go for myself in a low compression 360. For myself, it boarders uncomfortable. A upgraded stall converter and or increased gear ratio with a stock converter, would be needed unless it is in a light car. Like if you stripped your street fawn for nearly all it is worth but remain good for the street. Wipers, lights, spare tire, etc....
Voodoo Hydraulic Flat Tappet Cam - Chrysler 273-360 262/268
 
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Here we go, thank you. Much good experience all around and this puts it all together.

What is the Lunati voodoo one step less than 268?

That and a step thinner head gasket might be the right well-rounded warm over.

viton valve guide seals - I'm sold. And there's gotta be a thread on it. Much appreciated.
There is the Voodoo 10200701 256/262. Just stuffed one in a low compression boat 1978 Magnum w/360, a Weiand Action+ intake, 750 Street Demon(yes a little too big but it’s what we have for now) Patriot 1-5/8” headers, 2-1/4” full exhaust, Hughes 2500 stall and 3.21 gears. Still shaking it down tuning carb and timing, but has a barely noticeable lump to the strong idle. And fwiw, it pulls and accelerates better than it ever did before. Car has some balls now
 
As for mentioned raising compression will be an advantage for any performance camshaft I'm going to go against the grain here, take a look at the Howard Rattler series the smallest of the series I believe would be a strong candidate
 
agree with nm 100%
for low compression motors on the street sock gears and converter
Lunati 250 or 256 there is also a 253
256 howard
for shelf cams
me I like the 256 Jones best= pick your ex duration
 
what prh said about stepping down one size with the voodoo
but what Rusty said about the voodoo being better than any comp grind
the quieter mentioned is clue
The h line is even older than the xe line at comp
the Xe and voodoo were both designed by the same designer years apart with his experience with ultradyne in the middle
during that time he added additional polynominals to his design and more paramaters to his poynominals and a more powerful computer
Lunati sells two versions of his designs for mopar billets
one is the same as the Chevy design- it out performs the comp chevy grind- I forget what they call it
the mopar version is the Voodoo line and they outperform the chevy profiles
As said, easy to use too much spring- like Hughes
cut the guides for viton seals
do it right

I wasn't aware that harold actually ever worked for Comp. My thoughts were that they basically copy catted his grinds. Was he actually on the payrole at one time?
 
Yes..... from 77-80.
He did many of the original lobe designs...... like the 268H.

A little discussion going on about some of that on fbbo:

Mopar cam info, suggestions.

Cool. I knew he was the reason for the 110 LSA thing. LOL I think Comp kinda ran with that a little too far. It must be a good compromise, though.
 
Cool. I knew he was the reason for the 110 LSA thing. LOL I think Comp kinda ran with that a little too far. It must be a good compromise, though.
The 110 is indeed. It doesn’t fit everyone’s build, ideal idle, etc... I’ve seen this stated a bunch of times.
AJ did a comparo between my engine and Yellow roses with very similar cams but the difference was the 110 vs (YR’s) 108. The 108 did mathematically show a nicer improvement.
There is the Voodoo 10200701 256/262. Just stuffed one in a low compression boat 1978 Magnum w/360, a Weiand Action+ intake, 750 Street Demon(yes a little too big but it’s what we have for now) Patriot 1-5/8” headers, 2-1/4” full exhaust, Hughes 2500 stall and 3.21 gears. Still shaking it down tuning carb and timing, but has a barely noticeable lump to the strong idle. And fwiw, it pulls and accelerates better than it ever did before. Car has some balls now
That cam, once you work out the engine, car and ignition timing will rock. The 750 carb or cam to big? No freakin way. It’s right in there. BTDT. FWIW, if a 2-1/2 exhaust system should present itself..... do it.
 
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