I can’t imagine the axle being that rusted and married to the differential like that.
No imagination required for reality.
I can’t imagine the axle being that rusted and married to the differential like that.
Damn. I’d cut the housing end off so you’re not pulling on the housing and see what happens. It may be that the bearing is rusted to the housing or something. I can’t imagine the axle being that rusted and married to the differential like that.
‘Course ima guessing and spitballing.
I just wonder.......Lincoln locker and got the end of the axle?
Hell no it didn’t come apart. When I saw what it was doing to the tree I called it quits. I gave it enough effort to figure out if the axle is stuck that bad the third member is just as fucked. It’s enough to make me put this in the “Learned my Lesson” pile. What do you think?
My 100 year old shade tree in my front yard is much more valuable than some rusted piece of **** 8-3/4.
Hey guys, I’ve got a good rebuildable core 8-3/4 rearend with a 489 case for sale. $350 takes it.
Backing Plates - $50
Axles - $100
Housing - $200
489 case - $350
Pinion Snubber - $50
Ring and Pinion Gear - $100
See, it’s a great deal. All these parts are good to go and amount to much more separately than the asking price. Just needs bearings and races.
I’m sure you competent mechanics can get this thing roadworthy lickity split.
@4spdragtop
@diymirage
@replicaracer43
I cannot see any way in hell the bearing is rusted bad enough in the housing to cause that....so.....here's my guess. The axle splines have to be super rusted to the side gears. Try several gallons of white vinegar and fill that puppy up and let it sit several days and try it again. If you keep going like you are, it really WILL be a broken POS. As it is now, you might can still make it good. Trust me when I say, vinegar works wonders.
Rusted to the side gear/spider.You'll end up bending that housing if you haven't already.
Backing Plates - $50
Axles - $100
Housing - $200
489 case - $350
Pinion Snubber - $50
Ring and Pinion Gear - $100
What those other guys said about using vinegar. And let it set for weeks and maybe change the vinegar a few times. And what was said previously about you not having the skills to rebuild that rear end, basing that upon the chain around the tree, without thought given to what the chain will do to the tree bark. That just does not show much pre planning skill.
i might be interested in the ring and pinion, what ratio is it again?
just shoot me some pics once it is apart, so i can visually inspect it before i buy it
Would it still be considered rebuildable?if I had to cut a window in the housing and cut the axle apart at the gear set to pop the third member out.
Honestly, As others have suggested I think the slide hammer is going to be the only way to get it apart....curious if what you tried was similar.
Love how you turds jump on the “That’s dangerous” argument and try to insult me not building rearends when you see this piece of **** rear wont come apart even by pulling it with a 4x4.
....
Milling in a window to be able to cut the stuck axel at the edge of the third member would be a good way to get it apart. The window would then be welded shut.If you lived near me, I would buy what's left of the diff off of you for your $350 and pull it apart myself.
I love a challenge.
And believe me, it would come apart one way or another even if I had to cut a window in the housing and cut the axle apart at the gear set to pop the third member out.
I had to do that once on a dump truck that had an axle fail in the splines.
It literally welded itself together there........
It appears you want to continue grinding your axe. You’re now lashing out calling folks turds who have rightfully said your disassembly method is dangerous.
If Troy accepted what I have told him multiple times, that this rearend is not "rebuildable" in the sense that I would have to do damage to it to get it apart. He just doesn't have the authority to say that it is rebuildable.Is there any solution here that will take away the sweat, effort, embarrassment, used shop supplies and tree damage?
Love how you guys jump on the “That’s dangerous” argument and try to insult me not building rearends when you see this piece of **** rear wont come apart even by pulling it with a 4x4.
All I need to go is get a rearend apart. I send 3rd member to SD Gear and Axle. So what if I don’t build third members. Moot point. I’m not allowed to send a 3rd member to a shop? That's what you're latching onto now to tell me I'm not justified in being frustrated?
You still have to be able to disassemble one to be able to call it rebuildable. The seller says he has no reason to believe the diff is not rebuildable but what's the reason to believe it IS rebuildable. This was a mystery rearend to him but since it's not "rusted like a backeast rearend" ...... Well, my bad for trusting a guy based on his affiliation with a reputable club and a FABO member.
Would it still be considered rebuildable?
That sounds like an approach I may take.Perhaps let the internals soak in White Vinegar as I believe the axle spline is rusted to the side gear.....
Then use two impact guns at the same time to try and break the bond....
One impact gun on the pinion nut.
One impact gun on your slide hammer adapter.
Alternating from forward to reverse on both guns providing “Rotational Shock” to try and free her up....
It appears you want to continue grinding your axe. You’re now lashing out calling folks turds who have rightfully said your disassembly method is dangerous. Admit it, it is! Yes it’s also frustrating that even a 4x4 couldn’t pull it apart. That’s true too but don’t discount the safety factor because of frustration.
Is there any solution here that will take away the sweat, effort, embarrassment, used shop supplies and tree damage?
If you understand this concept then that would be the way to go. Metal is just metal. If you can cut it apart you can put it back together. If you're not used to doing this kinda thing it can be a bit scary and intimidating. The only thing I'd do different is I'd use a torch to cut the window. But either one way will work as long as you can handle a torch well.I'm just trying to help you from this point on.
Getting pissed off and continuing to struggle with how in your mind you got screwed over isn't going to resolve what you have to deal with now that it's over.
And it is.
Quit complaining.
There's nothing wrong with getting someone to build a gear set/third member for you.
If you used my method of cutting a window with a cut off wheel in the back of the housing, you could cut the axle shaft close to the third member and pull it out.
Then take the caps off and throw away the gear/bearing assembly as well as the pinion and bearing.
That leaves you with the bare third member ready for cleaning/blasting and rebuild.
(A core)
Then put the housing in a vertical press and push the remainder of the axle out.
And if it doesn't come out that way even with lots of heat on the housing flange area above where the bearing runs, then cut off the axle flange above the bearing area.
If you cut the flange off, then you might as well have it narrowed to A-Body width and make a few bucks on the bare housing.
Weld the saved window back in and dress the welds at the same time.
There's more than 2 ways to skin a cat.......