Gear Vendor OD Blues RE: 73 Duster

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Howard1784

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A shop was installing my GV in a 73 Duster (904) and I was told that the unit will stick out 2 inches above the floor pan into the interior. They do not do fabrications so it was not installed. Anyone out there with a 73 have any install tips?
So much for "massaging" the sheet metal and was not anticipating serious tunnel fab. A few hammer blows as so many forums indicated does not apply to this A body!

I called GV for help and received the following response: "We build GV for cars, we dont build cars for GV. Your car was probably highly modified incorrectly and you didnt know it" ie: engine/trans way out of alignment, incorrect mounts everywhere, everything shimmed. Incorrect trans mount........
He refused to believe it was not "highly modified")WTF??????
Thanks for nothing a$$wipe. He stated when they used to install them he always removed the ENTIRE tunnels first. Thanks for nothing! Anyway, I dont want my floorplan to look and sound like a turbo sticking out. Rant over. FU GV!
 
sounds like he was having a bad day

i do know they fit e body without floor problems

but they do say in the instructions
"Slot the crossmember holes up .10 inch each – not the frame – this will allow a perfect fit by lowering the od just a bit."

the word "perfect" would imply a less than perfect fit and some extra fun, addressing the now changed drive shaft angle. i.e the usual marketing hog swill, to dress up the extra cost and effort you will have to cover as some kind of benefit.

is the E body tunnel much much bigger than late A body?

I Have heard that GV make the aluminium case and adapters and assemble GKN made laycock De-Normanville overdrives with some of their own aftermarket parts into the case. they do a load of different length adapters for different length output shafts on the transmissions covered
i.e they do 18" 15" 8" and "short" versions
I think he should have asked you have you got the correct kit or suggested a swap to a shorter or longer output shaft trans and the correct 18 15 8 or short adapter to go with it

they seem to focus on B and E body ....

i do have a friend in the UK who had a bit of mechanical fun, output on trans a couple thou too long, or gear vendors adapter a couple thou too short... a near disaster ensured, rather than clearance fun, when he did his. not sure if his problem was fixed at his or their cost something to do with an internal clearance when hot

if the car is all standard id be calling again and just cross referencing if they sent the correct kit

the other option is the remote mount unit as per GKN supply to mitsubishi for the warrior pickup trucks 2 shafts standard trans to overdrive and then a short one on a slip yoke from overdrive to axle

expense and actually finding one is the main issue with that...and mounting it... probably would need chassis connectors and a new cradle mid car


Dave
 
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have a friend that put one in his 73 dart and only had to put a small ding in the floor somewhere. you sure the shop knows what they are doing?
 
I helped a friend install his, he had a 74 Dart sport. (pretty much the same thing as a Duster) All we had to do was the same as @abodyjoe mentioned above.
I ordered a GV as well to put behind my A999, I'm just waiting for them to get some A904 tailshafts in stock so they can ship it to me.
I wouldn't be too quick to blame GV. You've stated that "A few hammer blows as so many forums indicated does not apply to this A body!" That there might be an indicator that something's off.
GV specialize in drivetrain OD's, I imagine they're not all knowing when it comes to things that deviate from the "norm" (basically stock parameters).
 
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It wouldn't surprise me that the shop thought it might be opening a can of worms at the thought of adding clearance to the floor for the GV and told you a story to have an excuse not to do the work and send you out the door. My Scamp is a 71 but all I had to do is clearance two areas to get the GV to fit. Sorry your having problems and good luck going forward.
 
Anyone have a lead in the NY or Pennsylvania area of a reputable shop willing to install this unit?
 
FIND A NEW SHOP! Although I will not excuse the behavior of the person you talked to, GV has been around for a long time. I doubt that their product will not fit in your unmodified car when it has fit fine in thousands of A Body Mopars.
 

A shop was installing my GV in a 73 Duster (904) and I was told that the unit will stick out 2 inches above the floor pan into the interior. They do not do fabrications so it was not installed. Anyone out there with a 73 have any install tips?
So much for "massaging" the sheet metal and was not anticipating serious tunnel fab. A few hammer blows as so many forums indicated does not apply to this A body!

I called GV for help and received the following response: "We build GV for cars, we dont build cars for GV. Your car was probably highly modified incorrectly and you didnt know it" ie: engine/trans way out of alignment, incorrect mounts everywhere, everything shimmed. Incorrect trans mount........
He refused to believe it was not "highly modified")WTF??????
Thanks for nothing a$$wipe. He stated when they used to install them he always removed the ENTIRE tunnels first. Thanks for nothing! Anyway, I dont want my floorplan to look and sound like a turbo sticking out. Rant over. FU GV!
That sucks! Hopefully they didn't get too far into the install before they determined there were clearance issues. Are there no pictures available? Which part number is your Gear Vendors kit? Do you have pictures of the GV unit with tailshaft?

USCartool makes modified cross-members that lower the transmission mount's location. I'm not sure if that would leave you with an incorrect pinion angle, but it might be worth looking into since you already have the GV.

I drove Mike Musto's Charger with a GV and was not impressed. It felt to me like it was half-overdrive making it not worth doing in my book. Also, the concept that you are going to split all your gears by shifting it in and out and making the car accelerate harder is far-fetched. There may be a person or two that can operate it like that, but I've never seen a video of anyone doing it. There are vastly superior ways of getting over-drive in our old cars.

20240721_174212.jpg


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As others have stated, something doesn't seem to be adding up properly. I've trial fit my GV into my 69 Swinger, 4 speed, it will take very little modifications to get it fully home. In fact, the minor amount of modification to the car is the reason I chose the GV. If I were you I'd have another look at the scenario.
 
Yeah ..I couldn’t recall exactly but knew it was high . Seems odd for a device that’s only purpose is to be an OD.
 
Anyone have a lead in the NY or Pennsylvania area of a reputable shop willing to install this unit?

Give Mike Gunther's a call. They're just south of Rochester off 390 at the exit for 15 south of Avon. They're Mopar through and through. Mike's high school car in the '70s was a Super Stock Belvedere. His big brother was Super Stock Champ at Indy in 1967. Highly ethical with great integrity.

Guenther Automotive | Auto Repairs, Sales & Towing | Livingston, NY

https://www.hemmings.com/stories/mi...an-unlikely-first-super-stock-world-champion/
 
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When did they change the A-body floorpan, away from the 68 pan?
I mean that's the only way that it won't fit.
Anyone out there with a 73 have any install tips?
Tips? sure,
Jack the engine up, jack the trans crossmember down, a quarter inch at each end was all it took to get mine in, and a tiny bit of metal stretching in the tunnel, just to ensure a rattle free install. I used the 73-up spool mount rear X-member.
When done, fix the pinion angle; Get all your suspension pieces installed, including all the tires, and the ride height set, and the yokes installed FIRST. I highly recommend that you set the rearend back, far enough to fit and run 28" tires. Finish ALL rearend work first, such as narrowing or offsetting the springs, or mini-tubbing.
After the rear is in it's final location
Then set the angles,
Then measure and order your Driveshaft.

To find the exact places to massage the tunnel, what I did was, with the unit installed, I jacked it hard into the tunnel, then pounded on the tunnel from inside the car, to transfer witness marks between them. Then I ground down the GV, and air-hammered up the tunnel, as was required. In my case, with the spool mount X-member, I then slotted the bolt holes for a modest anti-rattle clearance; the unit was already in, I just wanted the anti-rattle insurance.
But yes, I took the unit down several times.
But it doesn't hardly weigh as much as my cat.
Special consideration;
Do not install bagged-out or soft rear springs, without an adjustable snubber. They will wind up something fierce and give you impossible-to-solve vibratory fits.

BTW
I always thought, that
making stuff to fit into my car,
was what HotRodding was all about.
and
You'll never be sorry that you actually have an overdrive, no matter what the ratio......... cuz it allows a lower starter gear, that is gonna make it all worthwhile. If your Auto has a Lock-Up and higher than stock stall, then yur gonna have a blast!
With the right convertor, it will act like an auto-shifting 2-speed transmission. Then you got your other speeds, then overdrive, and the LU is like a half a gear. so, by my count, I get the equivalent of 4.5 gears .
With 3.73 gears, a regular A904, and 27" tires,
you can hit 65@ about 4800 at WOT in Second gear.
Then into D/od/and LU all on one shift, the Rs will drop to 65=2350; sweet!
For passing; 55= about 4100@WOT again in Second.
That's a hard street-combo to beat.
Just don't overcam it!

Now
for some real fuel-economy
Use the A904 trans/3.23s/27s, and hit 65 at 5700@WOT in first-over.
Cruising is 65= 2040.
and passing at 55=about 3530 in Second/or 4650 in First-over, ; so, you're gonna need some torque. Again, don't overcam it and pump up the cylinder pressure.
 
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I've seen one installed in a 72 scamp and the floor was modified with a box to get the motor at right angle and have good clearance.

Just like the Tremec installs that some only put a ding in, but the motor is still all angled up.

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I was recently quoted $5000 and 5 weeks to install at another shop. Freaking hilarious.
I know another shop in Sodus. LeFever Auto. Don the owner has the skills to do the GVOD install, but might turn you away. He didn't want to do the US Car Tool frame connectors for me. Your install is different from that, though.

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I drove Mike Musto's Charger with a GV and was not impressed. It felt to me like it was half-overdrive making it not worth doing in my book.

Absolutely. If you are happy with a meager .78 overdrive, okay… if you already spent big bucks on the transmission and converter and don’t want to spend a bunch more on a 500 or 518, a GM 200 4R, okay but know that with a GV, you’re only reducing rpms by 22%.
Also, the concept that you are going to split all your gears by shifting it in and out and making the car accelerate harder is far-fetched.

The “gear splitting” talk is bullshit unless you’re talking about big rig trucks hauling heavy loads. No man alive can switch in between gears and also go in and out of overdrive in each one. It is a point they add as a sales pitch to sell you more on the product when 0% of the guys with cars will be able to take advantage of it.
This company sort of reminds me of the guy that was a star High School football player but now he is 60 and hasn’t done anything since. GV took a product, made a few adapters and have been relatively unchanged for decades. You may not mess with perfection but the GV has tons of room for improvement. How lazy can you be to stick to the same ratio the whole time ?
 
Chevy 200-4R and the Wilcap adapter is the way to go.
The 2004R, properly built, is an amazing transmission and one of my all-time favorites to drive, but I do prefer to use the Reid SFI Bellhousing to mount it. Fitting this trans does require trimming the torsion bar crossmember and a modified rear transmission mount. No floor cutting though.

The next step beyond that is a re-geared, properly built 4L60 with all the goodies in it. Which requires the same crossmember trimming and a different transmission mount.

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20240721_174212.jpg
 
My issue is highway driving. I already paid big money for a built trans and converter which are already installed
Absolutely. If e happy with a meager .78 overdrive, okay… if you already spent big bucks on the transmission and converter and don’t want to spend a bunch more on a 500 or 518, a GM 200 4R, okay but know that with a GV, you’re only reducing rpms by 22%.


The “gear splitting” talk is bullshit unless you’re talking about big rig trucks hauling heavy loads. No man alive can switch in between gears and also go in and out of overdrive in each one. It is a point they add as a sales pitch to sell you more on the product when 0% of the guys with cars will be able to take advantage of it.
This company sort of reminds me of the guy that was a star High School football player but now he is 60 and hasn’t done anything since. GV took a product, made a few adapters and have been relatively unchanged for decades. You may not mess with perfection but the GV has tons of room for improvement. How lazy can you be to stick to the same ratio the whole time ?
 
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