70 dart 470 ci drag car build.
- Thread starter MOPARMAGA
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I ended up having a pretty wide back cut, wider than I wanted but that's just how they ground out.
I put a 48 ° seat with a 36° top cut, I left tf's bottom cut and blended the seats which wasn't much work.
Valve has a 34° back cut and as I'm trying I think I should have made it steeper like 38-39°.
Maybe that wouldn't make much difference.
I probably would have had higher numbers up top but I did grind on the floor some from the original port match.
If I would have had a plan in place, I would have raised the floor and matched the tunnel ram.
PRH
Well-Known Member
I believe the best flowing std port/non-offset rocker BB head I’ve tested were pretty nicely ported Indy SR’s.
Nothing extraordinary done to them, but those heads are fairly labor intensive to port to get good numbers from.
I’ve never done any rework to a TF240, so I don’t have first hand experience as to how they respond.
TF made the decision pretty easy for how to step up the 240 head……… just buy the 270.
I’m def looking forward too your restest on the dyno!!
Nothing extraordinary done to them, but those heads are fairly labor intensive to port to get good numbers from.
I’ve never done any rework to a TF240, so I don’t have first hand experience as to how they respond.
TF made the decision pretty easy for how to step up the 240 head……… just buy the 270.
I’m def looking forward too your restest on the dyno!!
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Lol, yes I agree 100% just buy the 270.
I was so impressed with Andy's Dyno numbers I figured they'd be fine with me too.
I'm kinda stuck working 7 days a week for a while until my wife finds a job , although id rather be working on my own stuff, I'm paying bills and helping a really good dude build some cars.
Steering column welded to the firewall plate and the quick release adapter is welded in. It took a couple minutes to process where the steering wheel would be straight up, I don't have a pitman arm on my box yet.
Now that it's mounted it will be easier to clean up the weld on the coupler, that was a struggle to weld how I did it (like a dumbass).
Now that it's mounted it will be easier to clean up the weld on the coupler, that was a struggle to weld how I did it (like a dumbass).
71Demon540
Well-Known Member
Keep it up Korie good work.
Thanks RJ
ValiantS
Well-Known Member
Nice work, it may seem like a never-ending battle but just keep doing something every day. You'll get to a point when reason sets-in and know when things are good enough.
Thanks for the experienced insight.
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I have been working 7 days a week this summer to try and keep up with bills since my wife still isn't working, she has an interview on Thursday so I'm excited.
Im sort of back at it with the car, I have my heads back at work to set them up after a final clean up surface and port match the tunnel ram/ fix the angle on the intake flange.
I have done a couple things on my block, I added a .062 hole on the rear of the thrust bearing and drilled my block and caps so I can stake the 2, 3, 4 main caps.
That added a ton of stability to the caps. It took 30 minutes to remove those caps because they wouldn't budge even with the studs out.
I still have to fill the cooling passages, hone the cylinders and have it line honed again.
I'll be getting back to it more after my wife gets some income.
Im sort of back at it with the car, I have my heads back at work to set them up after a final clean up surface and port match the tunnel ram/ fix the angle on the intake flange.
I have done a couple things on my block, I added a .062 hole on the rear of the thrust bearing and drilled my block and caps so I can stake the 2, 3, 4 main caps.
That added a ton of stability to the caps. It took 30 minutes to remove those caps because they wouldn't budge even with the studs out.
I still have to fill the cooling passages, hone the cylinders and have it line honed again.
I'll be getting back to it more after my wife gets some income.
ValiantS
Well-Known Member
I have thought about doing that in some fashion. That should hold. How deep did you go into the bulkhead? Obviously it tightens-up the register function. There just isn't a lot of material to work with. Did you ever flow the 240 TF head (b4 and after)? Keep moving. In the meantime, nice work!
Thanks Sean, I drilled 1 inch into the bulk head 7/32 drill bit, had to step up 1 size from what I originally thought would work but the 7/32 has plenty of press.
Yes I flowed the 240 heads. I have a sheet posted on post 1922. I picked up some, pretty close to the 270 heads now.
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Oldiron440
Big blocks rule small blocks drool!
The Trick Flow heads can make power, a local racer had a low deck +030 383 with a 4.25 stroke crank, not sure of the displacement but it’s less than 500”. He had just bought the 240 heads when the 270s came out but he stuck with them and his low deck made over 750hp , how much more he could have made with the 270s I don’t know. But you need to think about that stock block you have and do you really want to blow it apart making more power.
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489 cid
This 470 has made in the 680s with a pretty small solid flat tappet, incorrectly ported tunnel ram.
It's getting a bigger solid roller, tunnel ram has been massively reworked & with the ported 240s I think I can probably get to around mid 700s, well see though. I did all the work, I just go with good advice and using my brain. Actual doing the stuff I qualify as a rookie lol.
Just took lunch and redid something on my intake valves.
When I originally did the valve job I added a back cut ...well let's just say I didn't know any better,
So I chucked the valves into the surfacer and ran a 15° out to a much narrowed and steeper 38°
back cut.
It left a step I needed to remove, bad enough I was considering buying a new set of valves.
Anyways with the "f" it mentality I came up with this semi rough swirl and blended my mess up to the stem and just about made everything the same with a cut off wheel and the valves chucked in the drill press.
Sorta happy about the results.
When I originally did the valve job I added a back cut ...well let's just say I didn't know any better,
So I chucked the valves into the surfacer and ran a 15° out to a much narrowed and steeper 38°
back cut.
It left a step I needed to remove, bad enough I was considering buying a new set of valves.
Anyways with the "f" it mentality I came up with this semi rough swirl and blended my mess up to the stem and just about made everything the same with a cut off wheel and the valves chucked in the drill press.
Sorta happy about the results.
dusterbing the peace
FABO pyrite member
Looks cool; you gonna throw it on the flow bench to see results?
Probably not, that's 3 hrs away.
I figured a loss in CFM with a gain of atomization, but probably better than the huge back cut
71Demon540
Well-Known Member
I love the willingness to experiment and do all this stuff yourself Korie. Lots of respect for this project.
Thanks RJ, I appreciate that a lot.
I fixed the flange angles, I thought I messed it up while I was surfacing it. Long story I don't want to type it out lol. Heads are resurfaced .007 off the heads and .016 from the bottom of the flange .000 removed at the top to get the angle correct.
Floors of the ports line up great. I need to somehow make a .090 gasket to duplicate the perfect fit and port match the intake roof to the heads, then try to make the intake look decent.
Floors of the ports line up great. I need to somehow make a .090 gasket to duplicate the perfect fit and port match the intake roof to the heads, then try to make the intake look decent.
dusterbing the peace
FABO pyrite member
Look on Summit, they have sheets of gasket material in different thicknesses. Here’s 094:
Gasket Material, Sheets - 0.094 Gasket Sheet Thickness (in.) - In Stock Filter Options - Vendor In Stock Filter Options - Free Shipping on Orders Over $109 at Summit Racing
I appreciate that, thank you. I wasn't successful myself finding that thickness.
Thank you very much.
dusterbing the peace
FABO pyrite member
Having made my own exhaust gaskets, make a few sets. Your first one or two will be okay, the next few will be better. Then you’ll have spares for when you need em quick for tearing into something and don’t have to spend time making them in the middle of a thrash.
Awesome.
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