DOES THE HDK SUSPENSION K-MEMBER HANDLE BETTER THAN A T-BAR SUSPENSION?

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They set up AutoX all over here In Oregon have a traveling club, even go up to Washington. Oregon SCCA

The one @Mattax pointed me to is only 300 miles and 4.5 or 5.5 hours.

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Looks like Randle, WA is the location for the Washington locations you mentioned. A little closer.

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I swear I looked years ago. Seems like the ORSCCA website is familiar. Guess I didn't dig far enough.

Be nice if they were close enough to not require hotels without trying to leave really early and/or power through a 4.5+ hour drive home after a full day of autox. The ORSCCA events in Randle appear to all be two events back to back so that might be worth doing. Either way, better than having to drive to Beach Bend or where ever Moparty is. :)

Thanks!
 
on the tie rod end, you could call it luck. Amazing how persistence can turn into ....luck.

Maybe I misunderstood, but from your description it didn’t sound like you calculated the roll center, saw a need and identified a change of tie rod ends to make adjustments to improve it, and then carried that out.

It sounded more like you were forced to change the tie rod ends because of a supplier change and are mostly speculating it made the roll center better. If the new parts had been worse for geometry, then what?
First, I love your Duster Demon, it was an inspiration for my build. I think I said before Tim's car and my car are as close to a match for HDK coil over and torsion bar you will find. I also run the taller UBJ and the SPC fully adjustable UCA with a stock boxed LCA, Bilstein shocks the big Helwig sway bar made for 18" wheels. I'm sure Tim runs more spring in the front than my 1.08" bars. Our rear suspensions are also virtually the same. My car weighs more than Tim's because of the insulation and sound system. We also ran 114.95MPH, Tim to my 114.49MPH in the 1/4. The biggest difference is tires, I run 245/40-18x9 and 275/35-18x9.5 Falkin RT660s. This year Tim stepped up to 265/40-18x9.5 and 295/35-18x10.5 Bridgestone RE71s which has been the standard go to autocross tire for several years.

I remember when Tim called me and told me about essentially extending the wheelbase to get more caster by simply changing the spacers per a conversation with Denny. I called him a cheating bastard if I remember! He presented Denny with a question, and Denny had a very simple fix. We all run power steering, and the more caster we can tune in allows for quicker steering inputs thru a slalom. So Tim wanted big numbers. I'm currently at 5.5/5.6 caster. Pretty much the most I can run without hitting the back of the fender. So Tim runs a more aggressive alignment than I do, but I like driving my car during the summer, so I backed off the numbers a bit.

Anyway, the other big difference between our cars is the driver. I just started autocrossing in August of 2023 when my car was a handling mess until this year. So I'm getting better now so I hope to close the gap. But nothing in racing or life for that matter is static, but we'll see. I believe with a good driver, our cars would be very close on the autocross and 3S. Which is better? Flip a coin. I kind of like old school stuff, so torsion bars and external shift linkage with my 855 5-speed. It's not the smoothest, but if I want that, I can shift my Mazda6 manual with my fingers. We both autocross a lot. Of course the STL-SCCA has the most competitive CAM-T cars in the country, including the SCCA National Champion, so I always have a great yardstick to measure against. We also both drive our cars to the track and enjoy driving them. I wished this post hadn't turned into a **** show. HDK has it's place, and it proven. If you decide to go that way, know that the winner of MoParty 2025 has that system under his car and will be back next year to run again.

I’m sure you already know the tire difference is massive. Increasing the amount of available grip, especially in the front, from going to a 245 to a 265 or 275 will have a huge impact.

The wheel rate is also important, and will be more important if you go to larger tires in the front because you’ll need added rate to handle the increased grip. It’s crazy how much the tires have changed in just the last decade, the wheel/spring rates I was running on my Duster were more than enough when I choose them. But even with just the Falken 660’s I’m at a place where the rates probably need to be higher.

The alignment differences aren’t that extreme. The caster is nice because it increases your camber on turning, so you can run more static caster, get more dynamic camber, and not wear out your tires with extreme static camber. But that’s a fine tuning thing, it wouldn’t be a big change compared to going to 275’s square.
One thing I think a bunch of ya'll talking about my initial roll center being terrible is I chose to use the spindle I have due to the ability to run the beefy corvette hub. It's a standard height M2 spindle. At the time, my knowledge of suspension dynamics was lack luster. I didn't know a short spindle would be such a detriment. However, I stand by my choice because I like the hub vs. the old school bearing setup I would have gotten with the TALL Wilwood spindle. I do think that TALL spindle would have prevented some of my issues early on, but I was ignorant at that point in time. So what have I gained, besides a giant trophy? I've given myself an education on suspension dynamics because I was determined to find the right ADJUSTMENTS to make it the best performing suspension the car has ever had. Knowledge is king and you should never stop learning. I enjoy helping people when they come to me for advice. I wouldn't be able to help if I didn't have real world experiences and the knowledge gained over the last year.

And that’s huge, and why your efforts are so valuable. No suspension system starts out perfect for anything, and as much as the geometry and physics will tell you, you do have to put it on the road and see what you get and make changes. And we can all learn, and should strive to do so. Which is why I keep asking questions.

I can't express how badly I want the naysayers to get their car on an autocross, wherever you live. See how you compare to the fast guys out there. It isn't easy in a new car let alone something that's 50 years old. And I would love it even more for them to come jump in the car at any of the events I do. You will be holding on to something and pressing a brake pedal that doesn't exist. I don't care how many hills or curvy roads you have near your home. You aren't driving your car like you will on an autocross. At best I'd say 5/10 on the street and you would only know this if you actually did it.

And that’s your pride. I get it, you’ve worked hard. But just because you did a thing doesn’t mean other people don’t understand what it took to get there, or can’t get there themselves if they had the time.

One of the most important factors in AutoX is knowing you car, it’s a precision event. Seat time. Yes, it’s true you’re not gonna push as hard on any road as you do on an AutoX course. Or at least you shouldn’t! But if you know you’re at 50% on the road, well, you know what you need to do. The physics is the physics.

I know I’d have a learning curve driving AutoX again, I wouldn’t be nearly as fast as my car is capable of. Maybe I’m not the fastest driver, but, that doesn’t mean I don’t know what I’m talking about either.

Oh I love the "I don't drive around traffic cones in a parking lot, I'm an oval track racer". Again, come on out. I bet you get lost on course. Many road racers and oval track racers have said autocross is more complex than big tracks. Sure you don't get the door to door adrenaline, but who cares. Things are happening so fast you wouldn't want a car next to you. It's also a known fact that autocrossers make better road course racers. But this is a whole different argument that I'm sure will go off the rails.

Shoot man, when are you going pro then? Going to get a national SCCA title first?

I’m not trying to diminish what you’ve done, I’m truly not. But I think you’re making claims you can’t back up when you talk like that.

Have you been on a road course? Yeah AutoX has fast transitions, but life comes at you pretty fast at 140+ mph too.
 
Maybe I misunderstood, but from your description it didn’t sound like you calculated the roll center, saw a need and identified a change of tie rod ends to make adjustments to improve it, and then carried that out.

It sounded more like you were forced to change the tie rod ends because of a supplier change and are mostly speculating it made the roll center better. If the new parts had been worse for geometry, then what?


I’m sure you already know the tire difference is massive. Increasing the amount of available grip, especially in the front, from going to a 245 to a 265 or 275 will have a huge impact.

The wheel rate is also important, and will be more important if you go to larger tires in the front because you’ll need added rate to handle the increased grip. It’s crazy how much the tires have changed in just the last decade, the wheel/spring rates I was running on my Duster were more than enough when I choose them. But even with just the Falken 660’s I’m at a place where the rates probably need to be higher.

The alignment differences aren’t that extreme. The caster is nice because it increases your camber on turning, so you can run more static caster, get more dynamic camber, and not wear out your tires with extreme static camber. But that’s a fine tuning thing, it wouldn’t be a big change compared to going to 275’s square.


And that’s huge, and why your efforts are so valuable. No suspension system starts out perfect for anything, and as much as the geometry and physics will tell you, you do have to put it on the road and see what you get and make changes. And we can all learn, and should strive to do so. Which is why I keep asking questions.



And that’s your pride. I get it, you’ve worked hard. But just because you did a thing doesn’t mean other people don’t understand what it took to get there, or can’t get there themselves if they had the time.

One of the most important factors in AutoX is knowing you car, it’s a precision event. Seat time. Yes, it’s true you’re not gonna push as hard on any road as you do on an AutoX course. Or at least you shouldn’t! But if you know you’re at 50% on the road, well, you know what you need to do. The physics is the physics.

I know I’d have a learning curve driving AutoX again, I wouldn’t be nearly as fast as my car is capable of. Maybe I’m not the fastest driver, but, that doesn’t mean I don’t know what I’m talking about either.



Shoot man, when are you going pro then? Going to get a national SCCA title first?

I’m not trying to diminish what you’ve done, I’m truly not. But I think you’re making claims you can’t back up when you talk like that.

Have you been on a road course? Yeah AutoX has fast transitions, but life comes at you pretty fast at 140+ mph too.

you are 100% correct on the tie rod end. It is no secret, I attempt to use un-modified, off the self components to make a K package that gives the best results. You need to remember how we started....all of us. As hot -rodders, not suspension companies. Others saw what we built for ourselves and wanted the same. It is that simple. I'm still a one man band, my fab guy / welder is sub contract....the only employee I ever had was Scuffs, and he passed 6 years ago.

Take spindles for instance, ideally we would have a taller piece that utilizes the Mopar pin and caliper mounts....right? Simple answer is, costs prevent that.
When my tie rod supplier went out of business 10 months ago and my inventory dwindled....and other personal factors entered the equation , I considered throwing in the towel (on new production only). HDK will never do the modified spindle / tie rod end my competitors use. Fortunately, the replacement tie rod end exceeded what I was looking for. I am confident there are additional benefits to the new tie rod, but I will keep that to myself.

let me ask you guys something..........when Chrysler changed to the big bolt pattern on the A bodies in 73-74 by simple using (larger) off the shelf B body spindles, same upper control arm, same lower control arm, same pivot points....did the geometry (roll center) change? You bet your *** it did. Did they change the K to accommodate the new geometry....hell no. In this case, like my tie rod issue, maybe it was for the better (camber gain), but I personally NEVER cared for the fact the hub / tires stuck out almost an extra inch ...per side.

just my view.....others may vary.

Mock-up K 062.jpg
 
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I still do not understand all the hub bub about roll center OEM vs aftermarket.

Joe adds an extra inch to (already 1" extended upper ball joint) on his HDK...it's a BFD and because of poor design.

72Blublu adds the same additional inch to his OEM set -up.....it's no big deal, just optimizing for his application.

Truth is, I bet I can count on one hand missing several fingers who could tell or feel the difference either way. As my buddy Butch would tell me....its picking fly **** out of pepper.
 
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Maybe I misunderstood, but from your description it didn’t sound like you calculated the roll center, saw a need and identified a change of tie rod ends to make adjustments to improve it, and then carried that out.

It sounded more like you were forced to change the tie rod ends because of a supplier change and are mostly speculating it made the roll center better. If the new parts had been worse for geometry, then what?


I’m sure you already know the tire difference is massive. Increasing the amount of available grip, especially in the front, from going to a 245 to a 265 or 275 will have a huge impact.

The wheel rate is also important, and will be more important if you go to larger tires in the front because you’ll need added rate to handle the increased grip. It’s crazy how much the tires have changed in just the last decade, the wheel/spring rates I was running on my Duster were more than enough when I choose them. But even with just the Falken 660’s I’m at a place where the rates probably need to be higher.

The alignment differences aren’t that extreme. The caster is nice because it increases your camber on turning, so you can run more static caster, get more dynamic camber, and not wear out your tires with extreme static camber. But that’s a fine tuning thing, it wouldn’t be a big change compared to going to 275’s square.


And that’s huge, and why your efforts are so valuable. No suspension system starts out perfect for anything, and as much as the geometry and physics will tell you, you do have to put it on the road and see what you get and make changes. And we can all learn, and should strive to do so. Which is why I keep asking questions.



And that’s your pride. I get it, you’ve worked hard. But just because you did a thing doesn’t mean other people don’t understand what it took to get there, or can’t get there themselves if they had the time.

One of the most important factors in AutoX is knowing you car, it’s a precision event. Seat time. Yes, it’s true you’re not gonna push as hard on any road as you do on an AutoX course. Or at least you shouldn’t! But if you know you’re at 50% on the road, well, you know what you need to do. The physics is the physics.

I know I’d have a learning curve driving AutoX again, I wouldn’t be nearly as fast as my car is capable of. Maybe I’m not the fastest driver, but, that doesn’t mean I don’t know what I’m talking about either.



Shoot man, when are you going pro then? Going to get a national SCCA title first?

I’m not trying to diminish what you’ve done, I’m truly not. But I think you’re making claims you can’t back up when you talk like that.

Have you been on a road course? Yeah AutoX has fast transitions, but life comes at you pretty fast at 140+ mph too.
Oh boy. Here we go. Yes, I've driven a road course. No it wasn't door to door racing but other cars were on the track. No I'm not going pro, nor do I think I'm the best driver out there. Anyone that thinks I'm bragging and beating my chest thinking I'm the next Ricky Bobby clearly doesn't know me.

Road racer and circle track racers will always discount autocross. For some reason they always think their sport is superior. It is like comparing apples and a spare tire, but I didn't bring it up. You're comparing a purpose built race race to a street car. Two completely different arenas.

I once heard a very good driver say, "On the road course (or oval) you see 1 corner 1000 times. On the autocross you see 1000 corners once." (This is an exaggeration for those that don't get it). But I think it makes a valid point.


I'll see my way out because whatever I offer to the conversation seems to get put down no matter what. God forbid I come up with a cure for cancer. Some of ya'll would rail me for that....

As usual, I'll be out driving and enjoying the car and continuing to learn more about suspension dynamics and how they apply to MY CAR.

Later!
 
I love the internet......lol

I still look at it as garage talk.

We always had (the same) one or two actually working on anything.....the rest (railbirds / woulda, coulda, shoulda experts) were always chiming in with their chit

About the only way to stop the BS is tell them to drag THEIR stuff out for comparison. (show us your credentials....sound familiar??)

Then comes the woulda, coulda, shoulda BS excuses.

You know better than most I luv a good discussion and I believe you have called me an asshole or an idiot a few times.....mostly (I hope) to my face but always with a smile.....you know, garage talk.
 
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I wasn't even gonna respond to this, as its absolutely ridiculous, but, I AM a glutton for punishment. Are you REALLY trying to say that zipping around in a flat parking lot with no walls, and no other cars, is somehow comparable to door to door oval track racing? Tell me you have never driven a FAST car in competition without telling me. How fast do you guys go? 50? 60 mph? What's the worst that can happen with "things happening so fast" at that speed, you gonna run over a rubber cone? Sheesh man.

I agree.....so for clarity, is your $10K challenge on an autox or the tri-oval?

I just might have an extra $10k layin' around if it's an autox challenge (you drive your torsion bar car , Joe wheels his Duster).....just don't tell my wife about the extra $10K layin' around.....we good?
 
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Take spindles for instance, ideally we would have a taller piece that utilizes the Mopar pin and caliper mounts....right? Simple answer is, costs prevent that.

Makes complete sense. Can’t imagine what else you could have done.

let me ask you guys something..........when Chrysler changed to the big bolt pattern on the A bodies in 73-74 by simple using (larger) off the shelf B body spindles, same upper control arm, same lower control arm, same pivot points....did the geometry (roll center) change? You bet your *** it did.

I don’t believe the geometry changes between big bolt and small bolt setups. I could be wrong, not saying I am certain. But if it changed, I am sure the factory evaluated it either way.
 

I still do not understand all the hub bub about roll center OEM vs aftermarket.

Joe adds an extra inch to his HDK...it's a BFD and because of poor design.

72Blublu adds an inch to his OEM set -up.....it's no big deal, just optimizing for his application.

Truth is, I bet I can count on one hand missing several fingers who could tell or feel the difference either way. As my buddy Butch would tell me....its picking fly **** out of pepper.

And this is why I don’t understand why you are part of this conversation. You don’t understand and yet you rail against anyone that disagrees with you.
 
@racerjoe @JBrian did you guys drive your cars to Moparty, and if so on what tires? Reason I ask is the 300 mile trip to a place for me to AutoX has me thinking about the best way to do it. Trailering isn’t an option for me, but it feels like 300 miles on 200tw tires would be a mistake. How do you guys do it?
 
And this is why I don’t understand why you are part of this conversation. You don’t understand and yet you rail against anyone that disagrees with you.

did you READ and COMPREHEND the title of this thread?

Please for the luv of God tell me what I do not understand?....and be specific.
 
I don’t believe the geometry changes between big bolt and small bolt setups. I could be wrong, not saying I am certain. But if it changed, I am sure the factory evaluated it either way.

this comment tells me everything.....I would say YOU are the one that has no understanding what effects roll center yet alone how you correct or adjust it.

BTW.... the factory DID NOT change a thing. Notice the hub (tires) stick out (after 73-74) almost 1" further per side after 73 making the rear track width narrower than the front width?
 
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for the most part....even a 1" add to the upper ball joint, more than anything to most, is a confidence builder. If you tell yourself it helped, you may just drive it a little harder.

I have observed a driver during a red flag stop, bitching about handling....the tuner (my fab guy) twists the wrenches on the torsion bar (midget dirt car) one way....then back to where he started. At the end of the race the driver claims it made all the difference in the world. My tuner just winks.
 
did you READ and COMPREHEND the title of this thread?

Please for the luv of God tell me what I do not understand?....and be specific.

You’re the one who said he doesn’t understand. I literally quoted you saying that.
 
this comment tells me everything.....I would say YOU are the one that has no understanding what effects roll center yet alone how you correct or adjust it.

BTW,,,, the factory DID NOT change a thing. Notice the hub (tires) stick out (after 73-74) almost 1" further per side after 73 making the rear track width narrower than the front width?

You are all over the place. You claim you don’t understand why the difference in RC is important and that the factory changed the geometry when they went to the big bolt pattern. Then you claim you understand all and that the factory didn’t change anything. And when I literally quote you, you act like you can’t see your own words. SMH.

BTW, the big bolt track width has nothing to do with suspension geometry other than maybe scrub radius. That was all in the hubs and brakes.
 
I think you read to much and likely get confused.....try actually doing it, It may be easier to remember.
 

yeah....it does NOT say I do not understand roll center.

Let me re-phase it for you to help you comprehend ..... I do not understand what ALL THE FUSS is about regarding roll center, OEM vs aftermarket.

do you guys learn differently now?....it has been over 50 years for me, but I still READ the complete sentence.
 
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BTW, the big bolt track width has nothing to do with suspension geometry other than maybe scrub radius. That was all in the hubs and brakes.
once again...you are clueless and speculative.

Chrysler used the B-body spindle to add the less expensive (over the Kelsey-Hayes 4-piston) disc brakes. ...if you think scrub radius was even in their vocabulary, you are sorely mistaken.

the wider track width along with new bump steer issues were ignored by Chrysler....they were building grocery getters for your grandma....not auto cross killers.

you need to quit making **** up.
 
@racerjoe @JBrian did you guys drive your cars to Moparty, and if so on what tires? Reason I ask is the 300 mile trip to a place for me to AutoX has me thinking about the best way to do it. Trailering isn’t an option for me, but it feels like 300 miles on 200tw tires would be a mistake. How do you guys do it?
Our Miata is on 200tw falcon rt615k and we drive it all over. They don’t last like a 400tw obviously but if you don’t get the tire hot, they hold up just fine.

On the 911 turbo S we run the Michelin pilot sport cup2 180tw year round but it sees very limited driving.
 
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Let me re-phase it for you to help you comprehend ..... I do not understand what ALL THE FUSS is about regarding roll center, OEM vs aftermarket.

That’s how I read it. And if you don’t understand all the fuss about it, you don’t understand it at all.
 
the wider track width along with new bump steer issues were ignored by Chrysler....they were building grocery getters for your grandma....not auto cross killers.

New bump steer issues? The both used the same LCA and LBJ, and just to be clear, the LBJ also includes the steering arm. If they are the same, how was bump steer affected?

But no argument that they weren’t building autox killers. The comment about scrub radius was because it’s the only geometry that would have changed. Not that I thought they cared about.

you need to quit making **** up.

Sounds like you are the one making things up.
 
for the most part....even a 1" add to the upper ball joint, more than anything to most, is a confidence builder. If you tell yourself it helped, you may just drive it a little harder.

I have observed a driver during a red flag stop, bitching about handling....the tuner (my fab guy) twists the wrenches on the torsion bar (midget dirt car) one way....then back to where he started. At the end of the race the driver claims it made all the difference in the world. My tuner just winks.

I think there are some that have done the same with a COC. Just spent a ton of money on a full kit and now it handles better. Wink, wink.
 
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