Dartswinger70
Well-Known Member
They made alot of Mustangs with the 6. In alot of cases they are still around in good shape and affordable
This again.... 4bbl on a 318 with a 2bbl
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abcdefghii
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Eh, I'd take $100 over it bringing zero and taking up space
Honestly, I was surprised at not being able to sell it. I had a new cylinder head, camshaft, pistons, basically everything needed to build an engine, wheels, various interior pieces, original brakes (we pulled the drums off to upgrade to disc, kept the original parts in case someone wanted to revert it back to factory spec).
The guy we sold the car to said he'd come get the parts, never did and then sent me a video of it V8 swapped. Kind of a shame, it was a really nice 2 owner car in mostly original shape. The 6 had plenty of get up and go for what it was as well IMO.
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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the 4bbl will not add any power at stall.
and it will not add power until whatever rpm the 2bbl runs out at.
and when it finally begins to add power, it's gunna start by adding one horsepower atta time, until the cam quits .
With 2.94 gears and 235/75-15 tires. this combo will make just under 12 mph per 1000 rpm in first gear; after lock-up.
Thus at lock-up, say 2000, your looking at 24 mph. So then, your 4bbl will be saying, not yet.
By 2800 or so, 34 mph, Assuming no tirespin, the 2 bbl is definitely done, so now the 4bbl is on line to make horsepower, one atta time.
Is this what you want?
OR
Is this what you want?
Ima gunna slam a 2800 convertor in there so the doggone 4bbl can begin to open, almost as soon as I drop the hammer.
Furthermore, with those 2.94s , 65= about 2250@3% slip. I'm gunna change those gears to at least 3.55s no less , and slow down to 60, for 2550, also at 3% slip.
That will do a couple of things for the truck.
1) this changes the starter gear from 7.2, to 8.7, an increase of over 20%. which means, it will be putting down the equivalent of 20% more engine torque, sortof like as if the engine was 20% bigger.
2) this will let the 318 zoom up to where the power is, quicker.
3) but in conjunction with a 2800TC, it's likely that the tires are gonna spin right away, which means you can now, slam that pedal down, and let the 2bbl fly
Is this what you want?
I have built combo's like this that would eclipse the performance of just adding a 4bbl. There is nothing that can get a given normally aspirated engine moving quicker, than a convertor and gears.
But um, what do I know ..........
Well, I wouldn't expect the four barrel to help off the line. Where it would make a real difference on the street is at higher speeds, especially noticeable when trying to pass on two lane roads. Really, just anywhere from 30 mph or so on up.
abcdefghii
Member
Barring any issues, should have an Edelbrock 2176 for $135 + shipping.
No rush for the carb, so I can keep an eye out or just wait and buy new when I'm ready.
Eventually I'll look into gears and a converter, but an intake and carb are things I can swap out, at home, in my garage.
No rush for the carb, so I can keep an eye out or just wait and buy new when I'm ready.
Eventually I'll look into gears and a converter, but an intake and carb are things I can swap out, at home, in my garage.
carbs come up here all the time in the classifieds, keep an eye peeled and one will pop for ya.
I have two 318s in Darts - one has a 600 Edelbrock based on the AFB (Performer), and the other has a 650 cfm Edelbrock AVSII. If you are going to buy new, I would recommend the AVSII. It is a much more refined carb that provides smoother operation and acceleration, and better atomized fuel/air. It even seems to hold fuel in the carb for much longer than the older AFB version, so less cranking to refill the carb after it sits.
Good to know. Thanks. I have an AVS II waiting for a 4 barrel intake. I might put it on my 64 with the Poly.
So far, on the two AVS II's I bought, they both will almost stall if you stomp it from a dead idle. On the first one, I tried tightening the back flap, put heavier springs in the metering rods, and a bigger squirter, but the bog stayed. I haven't worked with the 2nd one yet.
I bought mine near new (used) I wonder if the prev. owner had issues. I heard they were having problems with the earlier ones.
They run great just driving around. Start and idle like a dream. But in a fight to my death, I wouldn't trust one off the line. When they lay down, they don't get back up. But, I guess if I in a fight for my life, it would be a holley anyways... LOL
Yep, must be the reason 99% of the drag cars run a Holley.
And.... (eddy guys that argued for years hate this...) ... their new "real performance carb" is a Holley design. Edelbrock admitted it, now it's time their long-life faithful fans admit it... LOL
750 CFM Edelbrock VRS-4150 Race And Performance 4-Barrel Carburetor | Edelbrock 1307 - Search Shopping
funny... never had that issue with mine. You are far from how the carb was set up new at this point, but did you try the accelerator pump?
I didn't. That carb went with my '74 Duster when I sold it. The other one I bought is on my van. Because of the weather, I haven't toyed with it at all. I may not either, as I really just pull my trailer with the van. Runs really good on part throttle.
I don't seem to have that problem and I have TWO AFB's.
That particular issue is caused by the air bleeds in the primary boosters being too large and causing a delayed signal. I can stab the throttle from a stop on my GTX or Duster (750CFM AFB) and immediately incinerate the tires.
my dual quad 318 with a stock converter would respond immediately also. Two 600 eddy's.
start at 30 seconds in the video. But when I went to one AVS II, it would bog about 50% of the time. The other times, it took off.
Dual Quad 318 Plymouth Duster
I knew I should have said something about dual quads.
Duster has a single 750 under the hood, GTX over 1000 CFM.
Been tuning AFB/AVS/Thermoquads for over 30 years now, really does not take much to get them running far better than any Holley. Holley is horrible on transitions, just dumping fuel everywhere. And yes I tune with both narrow and wide-band O2 so there is no guess work.
#1 problem is the air bleeds being too large, on some race applications I actually seal them and rejet the carb. The throttle response is utterly crisp.
Do you modify the air bleed pointing up on the primary booster or the one "hidden" on the side of the booster body. I have seen articles on reducing the size of the air bleed on the side of the primary booster body with piano wire.
It will be the one directly over the emulsion tube. Please note changing the airbleed size, you will have to re-jet. Have a kit handy.
do you solder them shut and re-drill a couple thousandths smaller? Say .003?
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