Hell ONE FULL QUART won't overfill one. People don't get that. Imagine it spread out over the whole area of the oil pan.If you need the 3-4 ounces of quick return oil, put a smidge more in it. The extra oil will carry heat off too.
What advantages are there to painting the inside of the block?
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Thank you, I appreciate the compliment
Yeah, how much more slippery can it get? Like the most popular girl on prom night.
MrCab
Well-Known Member
Don't you really mean "imagine oil spread out all over the inside of every running motor?
The higher the RPM the more oil gets sprayed into every nook and cranny in the motor, valve covers, timing cover, bottom of the intake valley ( AKA the cam and lifter valley) cover. Another thing to keep in mind, the colder the oil temps, the slower it runs back downhill into the oil pan
A snug close fitting (.03 to .060 room temp clearances on steel rod motors and .060+ on aluminum rod motors) crank scraper really helps on reducing the oil held in suspension when the motor is running, I have been told that one was worth 30HP at 5000 +RPM on a BB Chevy on Pettis engine dyno years ago. Jason said the higher he revved that motor the more HP it gained; he was stopping the pulls on that motor 8600 RPM
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What do you call "COLD" oil temps? LMAODon't you really mean "imagine oil spread out all over the inside of every running motor?
The higher the RPM the more oil gets sprayed into every nook and cranny in the motor, valve covers, timing cover, bottom of the intake valley ( AKA thecam and lifter valley) cover. The colder the oil temps the slower it runs back downhill
MrCab
Well-Known Member
Any oil temps below 140 F
Ummm yeah it'll be above that shortly after startup. Moot point.
MrCab
Well-Known Member
Straight 30Wt is worse, I have switch to VR1 10x30Wt oil in my race motors now and either 0w20 Wt. or 5W20Wt in my daily street drivers depending on the time of the year I am changing it for
Yes. But they're out of business now.
This was built by RHS (sister company to Comp Cams) around 1988. I head the heads redone around 1990. Here's how it looked when I sold the block around 2013.
I'd say it held up pretty well.
However...
Excellent questions. I'll say that if I had been given a choice, I would have traded the glyptol for time spent removing all that flashing. That might have improved oil return.
4spdragtop
Well-Known Member
I would skip the Glyptal and focus time n effort into removing flash, deburring and "smoothing"
I remember RHS. Racing Head Service. I always thought it sounded like a speed ******* company.
It does look nice. I had to look at it multiple times before I finally decided it was iron. lol
Wishful thinking
MrCab
Well-Known Member
Of course, you think that way
Did you have them do any work on some of your parts or are you repeating criticism you heard from somewhere else?
Who criticized? I made a joke. Lighten up Francis.Of course, you think that way
MrCab
Well-Known Member
Have you ever measured how long it takes the engine oil to warm up under different outside air temps and different throttle openings? How long is "shortly"?
Shortly. Like your manhood.
MrCab
Well-Known Member
And you know how long it is by?
Did your girlfriend really tell you about that
Touche, essay
Touche, essay
What a shitshow...
Essay is something you write in school for a grade, Ese
Your "La Eme" membership card is on the way.
reminds me of a joke:
what did the mexican kid say when his homework flew out the window?
my essay!
(also, the rest of the posts read like they're j-par's burner account)
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