Recent content by RonnyB

Thank you for replying to this old thread, berneemc! My dash pad situation is still the same. The one they sell is listed as for a '66. Are the '64s the same? I suspect so, but would like to verify because I'm willing to pay the extra $24 to have it dyed red.

That's also something that makes this internet rock! Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us!

Please keep us updated with your progress and any problems you run into. There are lots of shy people here that don't post questions (lurkers) that are in your situation. Welcome, and thank you for joining FABO! Getting more enjoyment out of these old cars is what this site is all about!

Amen. That's really is looking at the big picture. Fixing what you already have is a lot better than trashing it all and replacing it with something new. If you don't throw it away, you don't have to replace it. Go back a couple of generations when they had to conserve just to survive instead of...

Can you post some pictures of the way it is now? I'm bad about not taking before pics. It makes for a more nifty story when you're done. Include one with the car, you and your son!

Dustedu2, If it ends up working out for you or not, please keep us informed. These regulators are a major pain, and if you have found a good source for a reliable replacement, let us know about it. Ronny

These were on a couple of Studebakers. The speedo heads have a little hole cover in the head unit built in. You have to get a small screwdriver to pull it out, then it uncovers a hole above the gears. I used old-fashioned 3-in-1 lubricating oil. (It was recommended to me, and there was an old...

It looks like that diagram doesn't provide enough information. He would need two separate relay circuits: one for the low beams and another for the high beams. The high beam and low beam voltages from the headlight switch would have to be substituted for the "ANY switched +12v lead" connections...

You did the right thing disconnecting the gauges, because they will both be destroyed if they are left pegging out for a while. What you are calling the sending unit for the Temp gauge and Gas gauges may be the voltage limiter. It's usually plugged into the instrument cluster. The problem is...

Please keep us updated with your situation. I'm sure there are others here who are dealing with the same problem. When I got my Dart, the wiring was so butchered I had to work on it for over a week just to pass the state inspection.

For the record, this might work:http://stores.ebay.com/TFlite-Pattys-Shop-Mart Found out my 64 also has a 76 motor during a Super Six upgrade. I like the fact that I can use unleaded gas without worrying about the valve seats. Having the original motor would be cool, but it's not a big deal...

x2 Lubrication is also critical. I've had a couple of cars with speedos that bounce around and sound like a hornet's nest. A little oil was all they needed. If you get a speedo shop to go through yours, you probably won't have another problem with it for several decades.

Don't get rid of that manifold! Even if you can't fix it yourself with the advice here on the forum, a decent machine shop will be able to take care of it for you. For the broken bolts, they can be hacksawed off and the remaining part of the bolt can be drilled through and the leftover parts...

cudamark is right. If you didn't do it before, try giving it a good blast with compressed air. Even a tiny speck of trash in the wrong place can make it run bad. Please keep us updated-carbs are a mystery to folks like me, and any information on getting them right is greatly appreciated!

Is this for a 73 Duster?