16 total mech and vac sounds really low. What distrib you running and 16 total at 2500?20, I only had about 16 degrees total change. However I don’t have an issue with performance under 2500rpm.
16 total mech and vac sounds really low. What distrib you running and 16 total at 2500?20, I only had about 16 degrees total change. However I don’t have an issue with performance under 2500rpm.
I may have missed it, but I didn’t see any performance numbers or dyno results yet.
Maybe it’s all it should be, and the OP was just expecting/hoping for more.
16 total mech and vac sounds really low. What distrib you running and 16 total at 2500?
That's the compromise you have to hit. You can step up at least one cam size and it will still be quite a good driver since you have started with good CR. I'd get into the mid-upper 270's for advertised with that static CR and not expect to miss the minor loss in the low RPM torque. You have plenty of rear gear to start with.Custom grind may be my best bet. My biggest concern and why I went with the voodoo line is that the car is a weekend warrior but I also cruise with it. I want enough low end that I can comfortably drive in occasional traffic without being miserable.
I asked earlier what the total of both is. Let me find my crayons so I will shut up.I don't think he's counting vacuum, and that is correct. Vacuum advance should not be counted when setting up a distributor curve. It's initial, plus mechanical. Vacuum is sometimes adjustable, but only as to the "when" and not "how much". Even the MP engine book says to let vacuum just "end up" where it is.
Not counting vacuum, I’m not even sure what I have for part throttle. I had some rattling at first and took some of the vacuum advance out (adjustable vac can), but I’m only talking WOT performance at the moment.I asked earlier what the total of both is. Let me find my crayons so I will shut up.
I asked earlier what the total of both is. Let me find my crayons so I will shut up.
The car is quick, but I though it would be faster.
Just a butt dyno. I have an LSX car (different animal) that makes 402rwhp and it’s a night/day difference to me and that car only runs 12.50 - granted that’s with a 2.1 60’I get the feeling it’s the butt dyno that’s not happy.
goal was to have a street night monster capable of low 12’s high 11’s, but also a car that Im able to cruise with to regional shows.My 2 cent the cam is on the small size and the dual plane intake may not be helping on top end at all. Like other have said what was the engine built for and what numbers do you have. We are just guessing without knowing what is hurting is it 60 foot or top end. The really answer is in those number and what you are using the car for.
Sometimes you can't have it both ways.Custom grind may be my best bet. My biggest concern and why I went with the voodoo line is that the car is a weekend warrior but I also cruise with it. I want enough low end that I can comfortably drive in occasional traffic without being miserable.
Custom grind may be my best bet. My biggest concern and why I went with the voodoo line is that the car is a weekend warrior but I also cruise with it. I want enough low end that I can comfortably drive in occasional traffic without being miserable.
goal was to have a street night monster capable of low 12’s high 11’s, but also a car that Im able to cruise with to regional shows.
Honestly, with how poorly many street oriented cars are set up to get good track times, I would have waaaaay overshot what I needed in terms of HP.
If the goal was to truly have shot at the 11’s, with a “street” car........ a 408 with some mild reworked RPM heads and a solid cam would have been a wiser path imo.
I’d have gone for 500ft/lbs and at least 450hp.
Can a 360 get you there? Obviously yes....... but not likely without giving up some(probably more like a lot) of that street friendly demeanor that you’re currently enjoying.
At this point, my recommendation is to go make some passes and/or a trip to the chassis dyno to see what you really have.
A 100 shot is probably the easy solution here.
That’s what’s on there nowhe didn't say which intake he used just dual plane, rpm performer would be my first choice to match a slightly larger cam.
What kind of power would you guys expect to the wheels with this setup?
The car is quick, but I though it would be faster. Timing is dead nuts, afr’s are on the rich side at 12:1 at the top.
I have a 360 .030 over
Zero decked the block with KB flat tops
CR at 10.5:1
Imm EQ worked magnum heads 1.6rr
2.02 1.88
Dual plane Eddy intake
Electronic distributor
3:91’s
PTC converter custom spec’d For my setup, great converter, flashes to 3900.
Lunati Voodoo cam specs as follows
Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 262/268; Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 220/226; Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .475/.494; LSA/ICL: 112/108; Valve Lash (Int/Exh): Hyd/Hyd;
The exhaust ports could flow more. That's with a 1 3/4 pipe. Intake is pretty good.
Yes and no.LMAO. It's not uncommon to see 60* total including vacuum advance. It's really not important because the vacuum can only works at part throttle. On accel, vacuum drops out, so it's not working then. Likewise at idle, IF it is connected to a ported vacuum source.
Dead nuts at top end of the timing curve is proven at the track.Timing is all in at 2500, dead nuts is advanced until I have a knock and retarded 4 degrees which ended up being 36 iirc.
Just stick a 292 mopar purple cam in and make some power! Let the bashing begin!! Oh the 108° lobe separation version.