I get NORS in on occasion and have a tester for them. The older ones are defiantly way better than the newer ECU's.
To the original poster:
Obviously something is amiss in your electrical system, to be burning through ballast's. I would go through the ignition system components, and see if I could figure out the problem. It could easily be a wiring problem as well. Have a new ecu, coil, ballast on hand. I also wouldn't fall for the gm end all be all bs. No cheby parts will ever touch my Mopars, period. Chrysler designed one of the finest ignition systems, with millions upon millions of proven miles.
OK. Look at the number of pins in the connector on the ECU; if it is 5 pins you MAY need the 4 pin ballast (dual ballast). If there are 4 pins in the ECU connector, then you don't need the 4 pin ballast anymore. What is the part number and source of the new ECU? Look to see if it listed for many years; if so, it has to be able to run in a 4 pin configuration (single ballast).4 pin ballast and an ohm meter
So THAT'S where they all are!! LOL
That is an option , , nothing wrong with the factory ignition , i've run mine for 12 years and in that time I've had a ballast resistor crap out twice ,but always had a spare in the glove box , easy fix . I now run an FBO ECU , gets rid of the ballast resistor . First thing to do for op is find out why he is having the problem . Make sure all the 50 year old wireing is in good condition . Another thing is many "new"distributors are just plain crap had 3 go bad on me last 2 years replaced it with a firecore it's working so far but not sure it is much betterSome will poo poo the statement I'm about to make but so what.
If you plan on keeping the car all stock then you might have to deal with what you get, but if you plan on driving that car on a regular basis dump that 50 year old ignition tech and get something you can rely on.
Things can only get worse with the quality of aftermarket parts going the way it is.
I swapped to GM HEI over 6 years ago and not had a single ignition issue since.
Or you could even go the OEM module case with the HEI built into it route.
I personally prefer the 8 pin module with weatherpak connectors.
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I repotted one using 30 minute epoxy. As far as I know it is still working.I have a 79 Volare with 94000 mi. Runs perfect. It had the original ECU box, I pulled it and all the black insulation had long ago melted off. Still worked perfect but installed a new one and kept it for a SPARE!! LOL OK so someone will tell me in a month the new one will crap out!!! Maybe!!!!!!
What brand is this stuff???? I would like to reseal mine.I repotted on using 30 minute epoxy. As far as I know it is still working.
And I'd use a Suzuki motorcycle ignition if it does the job reliably.
Don't care what the brand the spark is, as long as it's always there when I need it.
Loctite 30 minuteWhat brand is this stuff???? I would like to reseal mine.
Any suggestions on where to look?If you know where to look, good parts are still available for an OEM ignition.
Any suggestions on where to look?
I had one of those overheat. Smelled the oil. Didn't take long to figure out. You never know.My distributor is circa 1973. It might have close to 300,000 miles on it. In 2004 the car it's in went 93 in the Eighth, the tach on 7000 all the way, and idles at 550 rpm when I need it to. I have absolutely no idea what a bad electronic distributor might look like. The pick-ups are another story, but mine is ancient as well.
If you want a trouble free lifetime coil, I can heartily recommend the big yellow Accell square top with matching ballast; I bought it from the Mopar catalog. Mine has over 125,000 miles on her.I mounted it on the apron with a 3ft coil wire, part of my anti-theft program.
One of those what? lol. Accell coils? That's why mine is out front on the apron in the cooler air, and not bolted to the engine, which I run at a minimum of 205*F. But as you know, with uncoated headers, the underhood gets to be really really hot.I had one of those overheat. Smelled the oil. Didn't take long to figure out. You never know.
I just took a look at Summit. Standard Blue Streak makes some decent parts. Coil, distributor cap, rotor, ecu, voltage regulator. Make sure it is their Blue Streak line. That is there top of the line parts. For example: Make sure you get their blue distributor cap with brass terminals. I have had a black cap with alum terminals sent out, sent it right back.
Look on EBay. Look for early nos, nors, parts.
Swap meets. Even junk yards.
Napa Auto and the big box stores, as long as you know what is good.
Best of all Google !!!
Read Read Read, on who makes quality parts, and go get them.
Hey I did that too!Somehow I ended up with one of the cheap *** caps, so I drilled a big hole in it for rotor phasing testing.
It was either that or it was going in the trash.
Hey I did that too!
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You're just trying to tempt me to watch tellybision!Wait till you see my next Youtube video at Mopar4us.