In the power nation stroker vid that was posted here recently shows a 30 some horsepower increase in the stroker. Is that not a significant enough amount?
If it makes more torque, it has to make SOME more horsepower. HP=torque x RPM.
I have 2 engines, 'big' engine is a .070 over 383 stroker with a 3.685 offset ground crank, stock 360 main journal, 2" rod journal with 6" small block chevy rods. The 'small' engine is a .030 over 360 with stock stroke. Both have W2 econo heads that have had some porting work done on them, nothing extensive. The 'big' engine has a comp cams roller .654 intake, .655 exhaust. 'Small' engine has a MP 590 cam. My best 1/4 ET with the 'big' engine is a 10.05. I haven't run the 'small' engine in my Dart yet, but in a similarly built, but all steel Duster (except for the hood, and a Holley 750DP vice the 1050 Dominator on the 'big' engine) it would run 10.20s all day. Big difference between the two, not really, at least in my set up. I still have the feeling that the car should be running better with the 'big' engine, that something is holding it back, but I haven't been able to determine what it may be.I’m curious as to why almost 80% of Mopar guys suggest strokers over stock crank builds. How much quicker do you think they are? Let’s hear your guesses.
If I was to stroke a 318, I'd buy the kit and go 390. You get the crank rotating assembly. I wouldn't put a 360 crank in a 318 either, I'd just get a 360 and get the .090 bigger bore... means 360's are so easy to get.With your experience with the 318, would you stroke a 318 to a 349? If so, is there a particular stroker kit that you would use?
Now we are thinking. But what if weight, gearing, shift rpm, and head flow stays the same. I think we can all agree if you have a 170cc runner on a 360 and a 170 runner on a 408 the gap is going to close up some unless chassis, gearing is changed.
I agree, questions should be asked before throwing out that same answer, 408.I hear it 10 times a day. Should I build a 360 or a 408. Zero questions asked and the 80% crowd jumps in “stroke it”.
Pistons for the 318 - 349 are hard to find. A 360 crank into a 340 block is easier. 318 - 390 is easier and a better path.If I was to stroke a 318, I'd buy the kit and go 390. You get the crank rotating assembly. I wouldn't put a 360 crank in a 318 either, I'd just get a 360 and get the .090 bigger bore... means 360's are so easy to get.
I think one way to "justify" it is this....
A head change is easy, cam change not too bad, rotating assembly, ugh...
So, with that in mind, one might look at this as a long term project. Stroking the motor shouldn't have any adverse effects, so doing that first and bringing everything else in line over time might be a good way to spread the pain out out over time and see an immediate return on investment.
Just thinking out loud.
But what if it’s not needed. The .20-.30 max that most guys would see could create traction issues and go slower. Chassis work is a lost science to many.
But what if it’s not needed. The .20-.30 max that most guys would see could create traction issues and go slower. Chassis work is a lost science to many.
I think larger bragging rights to the guy who cleans house, then says it is stock stroke.Annnnnd, your discounting bragging rights when people can say "I stroked it"... wait... you know what I mean.
I think larger bragging rights to the guy who cleans house, then says it is stock stroke.