dannydart360
Member
Looking for suggestions for the best carburetor for a 1974 360 stock manifolds aluminum intake and small cam.
Carb choice
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MidnightSwinger
Well-Known Member
Edelbrock 1905 or 1906 AVS2 650 cfm. You will like how snappy it is.
Best carb is an opinion that always opens up a can of worms.
600 - 650 cfm is all that’s needed.
I like the AVS over the AFB myself.
Jet it, set it, forget it. Carb cleaner once every few years on the back of the boosters to keep it mint. (Lift carb top off and see the air holes.)
A basic Holley VS is also fine.
600 - 650 cfm is all that’s needed.
I like the AVS over the AFB myself.
Jet it, set it, forget it. Carb cleaner once every few years on the back of the boosters to keep it mint. (Lift carb top off and see the air holes.)
A basic Holley VS is also fine.
The AVS2 has proven to flow less than advertised. The 800 flows around 700.
That would make sense because of the annular boosters taking up so much area .
Automatic: 3310 Holley with the lightest secondary spring. Four-speed: 3310 or 650 double pumper.
Carter/Edelbrocks work OK on smaller motors, 350 cubes or bigger I prefer Holleys. Better accelerator pumps, less prone to vapor lock, less sensitive to fuel pump pressure, less prone to leaking needles and seats when they've been sitting a while, more hp. Your gas mileage may suffer.
Just my humble opinion. I know a lot of people like Carter type carburetors. I have Edelbrock AVS2's on my 56 Plymouth 277 and my 63 Valiant 225 slant six. Dual AFB's on my Hemi Charger. I have a box of extra needles and seats because so many times when I start one of them when they've been sitting a while, the needles and seats leak all over the place.
Holleys, no problem as long as you use the blue gaskets, not the black ones which today's gas will rot.
Carter/Edelbrocks work OK on smaller motors, 350 cubes or bigger I prefer Holleys. Better accelerator pumps, less prone to vapor lock, less sensitive to fuel pump pressure, less prone to leaking needles and seats when they've been sitting a while, more hp. Your gas mileage may suffer.
Just my humble opinion. I know a lot of people like Carter type carburetors. I have Edelbrock AVS2's on my 56 Plymouth 277 and my 63 Valiant 225 slant six. Dual AFB's on my Hemi Charger. I have a box of extra needles and seats because so many times when I start one of them when they've been sitting a while, the needles and seats leak all over the place.
Holleys, no problem as long as you use the blue gaskets, not the black ones which today's gas will rot.
You must be the only person that has Carter/Edel 'needles & seats that leak all over the place'....If you actually compare the leverage ratio of Holley & Carter n/seats, the Carter is less likely to flood because the float has more leverage. Carter/Edel carbs will work with 10 psi of fuel pressure.
What is better about the Holley acc pump?
What is better about the Holley acc pump?
They leak, then the bowls get overfilled and fuel spills out of the carb. Corrosion from lousy gas, whatever, but it's happened to me a bunch of times. Maybe OK for a daily driver, but problematic if the car sits a lot.
The seal on the Carter/Edelbrock accelerator pumps can curl under and then they don't work worth a #^$&@. The old leather seals are the worst about that.
Carter/Edelbrocks can handle ten pounds of fuel pressure? Not in my experience.
Maybe you have better gas in Australia.
The seal on the Carter/Edelbrock accelerator pumps can curl under and then they don't work worth a #^$&@. The old leather seals are the worst about that.
Carter/Edelbrocks can handle ten pounds of fuel pressure? Not in my experience.
Maybe you have better gas in Australia.
Must be end user issues. ISK what to say about your experience but I haven’t found your claim.
I haven’t found that ether
How much PSI are you running?
Thats a float issue. Never had that issue.
Haven’t had that issue ether.
Lousy gas is a problem no matter the carb. I haven’t started my Magnum up in a good long while. No issues.
I forget what the new material is called. Neoprene? Don’t curl under like the old OE leather does. They stopped using leather a long time ago.
@Bewy 10 psi to me is a crazy amount of fuel pressure to run. I’m running an Edelbrock electric fuel pump that is carb calibrated so no regulator is needed. From memory, it max’s out at 7psi.
*I Think*
Edelbrock carbs that I have had on an airflow bench have had front primary and rear secondary flow testing done. I didn’t have equipment capable of flowing the whole carb at once. I was performing some flow enhancement experiments as outlined in the Cater carb book.
I was using a 600 AFB. The primary was tested first, then the secondary. Adding the two numbers up came to 600 cfm.
After modifications, a little more than 700 cfm was obtained.
This was not a full tilt modification job. Some whittling went to far.
The Edelbrock, IMO, at least for the AFB tested, dry flowed as advertised. Not flowing the carb as a whole may have effected and not equaled the same as flowing testing the front and rear of the carb independently.
@dannydart360 Again, my vote is for the Edelbrock 650 AVS as the street carb of choice and what I would do myself. I suggest an Edelbrock electric fuel pump if the car sits for any extended period. Today’s gasoline tends to disappear from the crab bowls quickly these days as compared to yesteryears fuel. I don’t like cranking and cranking the engine over to draw fuel up to the carb. The electric pump fills the bowls up in moments.
Select the correct psi for carbs so a fuel regulator isn’t needed.
The small in one fuel pump is not the one you want but the larger black pumps is what your after. You’ll also need to get the relay kit and fittings for the pump. It’s worth the minor hassle.
I have a 750 AFB on my bolt on performance parts 360 Magnum. The 750 did provide a small increase n power off idle and driving around but I think I’ll be switching back to the smaller carb for better and nicer throttle response. Modifications to the carb will probably happen in time.
Also like I said above, this question always generates a bunch of opinions and replies.
What ever carb you feel comfortable with best in the 600-650 cfm area is the carb you should use.
A good, old school Holley 600 would be good here.
I did have a relatively new Edelbrock float fill with gas and cause flooding. Leaking at the seam. But that was a one time only deal. What I've experienced multiple times with Carter/Edelbrock carbs is a needle and seat issue, not a float issue. If others have not experienced that, well, I have.
I've experienced vapor locking with Carter/Edelbrock carbs. Also Thermo-quads. Holleys are much better in this respect.
I've replaced the accelerator pumps in my Hemi's AFB carbs a bunch of times in the forty years I've owned it. Leather, neoprene, whatever. They don't last.
I can recount multiple experiences dating back to the seventies and multiple hundreds of thousands of miles. Long trips, short trips, city driving, interstate driving. You name it. My Hemi Charger has 120,000 miles on it, more than 80,000 of that since my Dad bought it in 1970. My 65 Barracuda has over 300,000 miles on it, been driving it since it only had 35,000 miles on it in1968. And I've put almost 200,000 miles on my 67 Barracuda since I bought it in 1986. I've run Carter/Edelbrocks and Holleys on both of the Barracudas. And both kinds of carbs on my Dad's 62 Dodge with 440, his 71 Duster 340 and my old 73 Duster 340. Over the years, I've had a lot more problems with Carter/Edelbrocks than with Holleys. And all other things being equal, Holleys have made more power, more consistently.
I know what I've experienced. If you haven't, so be it. I prefer Holleys.
I'll go further. A 3310 Holley is too big for a slant six, or a 273, or for the 277 in my 56 Plymouth. But for a street driven car with 350 cubes or larger, a 3310 Holley is the best all around jack-of-all trades carburetor you can buy.
I've experienced vapor locking with Carter/Edelbrock carbs. Also Thermo-quads. Holleys are much better in this respect.
I've replaced the accelerator pumps in my Hemi's AFB carbs a bunch of times in the forty years I've owned it. Leather, neoprene, whatever. They don't last.
I can recount multiple experiences dating back to the seventies and multiple hundreds of thousands of miles. Long trips, short trips, city driving, interstate driving. You name it. My Hemi Charger has 120,000 miles on it, more than 80,000 of that since my Dad bought it in 1970. My 65 Barracuda has over 300,000 miles on it, been driving it since it only had 35,000 miles on it in1968. And I've put almost 200,000 miles on my 67 Barracuda since I bought it in 1986. I've run Carter/Edelbrocks and Holleys on both of the Barracudas. And both kinds of carbs on my Dad's 62 Dodge with 440, his 71 Duster 340 and my old 73 Duster 340. Over the years, I've had a lot more problems with Carter/Edelbrocks than with Holleys. And all other things being equal, Holleys have made more power, more consistently.
I know what I've experienced. If you haven't, so be it. I prefer Holleys.
I'll go further. A 3310 Holley is too big for a slant six, or a 273, or for the 277 in my 56 Plymouth. But for a street driven car with 350 cubes or larger, a 3310 Holley is the best all around jack-of-all trades carburetor you can buy.
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I haven’t thought about it actually.
Being retired, kind of in my own world now.
Absolutely!
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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On the street?
the factory 2bbl.
EDIT;
think about it.
You didn't say;
1) that you pumped the compression up, 2) nor that you installed dual exhaust,
3) nor a cold-air intake,
4) nor a higher than stock stall, convertor
5) nor upgraded the gears into the high 3-series.
so, assuming that this engine is severely handicapped; including;
1) Say your cam has dropped the cranking cylinder pressure from the factory of about 133psi, to 127, which as we all know, will take the bottom end with it.
And so, yur engine cannot hardly break the tires loose, nor spin the tires very far.
Now say yur car still has the 2.76 gears , which will make about 35mph@3500 in first gear.
Not coincidentally;
3500 is about where that new cam will begin to make power, beginning at 1 hp. and
3500 is about where the big Holly 2-bbl runs out of cfm, on that anemic combo.
>>Now, examine your driving habits;
how much time will your street-car be spending in First gear at above 3500?
Is it worth it, to you, for over $1000 smackers (for new parts), to stick a 4bbl on there, for the few times every summer, when you wind her up past 60mph in first gear; or kick her down into first at say 50 mph.and you still want to stuff those hot cfms, now occupying several times their original size, into logs, and probably, the anemic factory y-pipe and single exhaust?
The point is this;
If I was in your shoes, here's what I would be doing;
MY
next purchase would be at least dual exhaust, then a 2800 convertor, then something like 3.73gears, and then headers for icing on the cake.
Now that combo will be ready for a 4bbl.
I mean sure you can install a 4bbl, but for the most part, she'll be all bark and no bite.
Don't believe me?
Be sure to do some before and after testing, keeping the rpm below 3500.
or not.
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Michael Harrington
Well-Known Member
IMO the best carb is what you are the most knowledgeable about. If you don't work on your own car go with the carburetor your mechanic is most knowledgeable about.
Rothschild74
Member
For maximum reliability and easy, consistent performance on a street 360, I believe the Edelbrock Performer 1406 is the best option.
500 cfm AVS2 on my 63 Valiant
Needles and seats out of that carb that were sticking and had to be replaced a few weeks ago.
Needles and seats out of that carb that were sticking and had to be replaced a few weeks ago.
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