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Permatex Anareobic sealer.

Regarding the plug in the head, that can be removed without tearing down the engine. probably the best method would be to take a cheap square drive extension and tack it into place, and spin that plug out. Take about 15 minutes if you are lucky, and an hour if not. no need to tear down the engine.

Do the switches have the same thread? swap switches and be done with it.

The fact that Pristine is making sense is now confirmed:

According to his story, he deliberately cut someone off, and you are saying no one was endangered. I don't see the two as being parallel in meaning. I'm sure if he's knowledgable, or at least humble, he'd be welcome on Devilbrad's forum. :dunno

For those of you who can't figure out present and past tense in a sentence, remember that people will read what you write, even if you don't know how to write it.

Most of what you got was rhetorical answer, lol Without deciding who knows what and whether the previous posts are correct or not: Most of this is not fully understood unless you read and understand basic hydraulic function, and have a book (the allpar article was,,, lacking) or FSM with the...

Will you be running balled up paper for pistons as well? I don't see this ending well.

I realize that, and I asked for what I wanted. Seemed logical to do that, since I want 15x7" rallyes with small bolt pattern. The rallyes I found new are not any more expensive than fancy chrome wheels from the big manufacturers. ALso, I figured I'd rather put the cash in someones hands than...

anyone who knows their stuff knows that bolt on's are a crap shoot. build a car with a goal in mind, and you'll have far better results. But hey, the crap shoot method sure is amusing to READ anyway.

The drive shaft in my 72 is bent. Has the 8.75" axle. I doubt its common, but I don't own a million Darts. Given that the shaft is a small diameter, and is taking about twice the HP it was supposed to, It may be more common than I think. Or you think.

On here? I missed it if so. Or is it on another site?

Rally Wheels, 15x7, small bolt pattern. Looking for four of them, good condition. Prefer to have center caps and trim rings with them, but will consider anything that is road worthy.

All of this misses the point of such an exercise. Now that its done, all the advantages can be maximized. Effectively, the advantage is it opens up some area outside the box.

I see a torsion bar mount/crossmember in the background of one pic, is that for a 63 A body, and is it for sale?

Other parts and sheet metal as well. Four door specifically.

Yup, check your torsion bars. They will be too small for the 360. A good upgrade would be antisway bars.

I don't think anyone is saying to run one or the other, except to say that running the stock EFI after building a decent motor is a waste of money. Also, anyone who figures a 318 won't pull 13's is being silly. A 69 340 had 275hp, (some would say 325) and it got an A body into the 13's. Why...

check the throttle valve cable adjustment. This could be part of the problem if its too tight. DOes it manually downshift to first without going to neutral?

up 2-0 in the Conference finals.... just two months ago, they were lucky to make the playoffs.... this will get interesting.

buy it, its worth it and if you don't want it, can be resold to another A body fan easily.

taking it easy on a trans for a few miles is for two reasons. First, it ensures all air pockets in the maze of passages are forced out and the fluid fills and operates the trans as it should. Second, if new bushings have been put in, it gives them some time to work in before slamming the trans...

There is a blue or purple one in central PA. It shows up to the rod show and the 4x4 show.

1) a slant six trans will not bolt to a small block. The torque converter may bolt up, but it will not be balanced for the 360, and may not be able to work well on a small block application. 2) You should check any aftermarket suspension place for the plates. I do not think the 7 1/4 plates...

998 and 999 trans was late 70's and up. you'll have to check the numbers on the casting to verify it, as they all look the same. More often than not, the 998 999 had a lock up converter, so a look at the input shaft would reveal a fluid passage in the end of the shaft.

sounds like you are not getting proper oil pressure to the lifters, OR the lifters are not pumping up as they should. Check oil pressure of the engine to see if its good. If it is, replacing the lifters is likely necessary. Also, in reading your post, you have a 66 Dart, but the 318 wasn't...

If you feel the end play is excessive, you should check the c clips on the inboard end of the axle shaft. The 1973 FSM says end play is "built in." End play in this axle is a factor of space between the end of the axle and the center pin of the spider gears. I'd check there first and see if that...

most of the time, the centering valve is the cause of the full lock problem. simply adjusting the play in the sector shaft shouldn't affect the power assist on the worm gear shaft.

Line pressure will be higher with the shift kit. Usually they send a small cardstock device that shows the proper dimension on the adjuster. All that you mention sounds normal except the lack of pressure at the rear servo when in manual low.

No, but you will likely notice a lack of efficiency; it'll feel a bit "loose." Stall speed depends a lot on power of the engine versus weight of the car, as well as cam specs (listed power band of the cam). Because its already a smaller diameter converter, it'll tend to stall to a higher rpm...