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Thanks Memike,you too!:thumrigh:

Pullback on the arm(spring loaded)there should be lever on the arm down by the stud,pull that lever out,let the arm down and should come off.May need to rock it back and forth if its stuck.May need a screw driver under neath or something to give you leverage without damaging the cowl,should be...

Take the hinges off.If you have the kit Memike is showing you will need to drill the holes out for the bushings,the originals did not have the bushings in the hinges,just a pin,when wore out,it opens the holes up and wears the pin.If you just replaced the pin,they will still be sloppy,thats...

Rubber-seal,PPG,Martin Senour are some more. Dupont Hot Hues paints.(factory paks) I know theres the auto parts "body pro" brands or what ever there selling at $20.00 a gallon,your getting what your paying for. Evercoat body fillers,Rage,Everglass,Metal to Metal,etc. Rubber-Seal...

Yes,its a factory seam. I dig it out,stitch weld the seam and refill it.You dont have to weld the seam,i just do for reasurrance,big blocks are hard on a bodies without a cage.I used Evercoat everglass and finish out with a regular filler such as Rage.Metal to Metal also works well and usually...

No sun?Drop your lockstrip into a bucket of warm water,keep it in there as your feeding it into the weatherstrip.This will keep it flexible if you get hung up in a spot or so and its partially lubed now.

Got a pic of one?I have some in stock but no part #s to tell what they are.

Seen this happen at a show last year on an old 50s pickup,sitting out in the sun all day.It was flowing out fast!

Breaks the colors up.You could paint it.Easier to clean,especially if you running a holley.

Heres one.

Should be c/c. Nice looking car by the way.Love those 68s.

Does your rag turn the same color as the car when waxed?If it does its s/s.

Used there fast fill primer couple years ago,Jobber got rid of there paint inventory.It wasnt bad but for the money they get theres better out there, depending on what your looking for.

Use a putty knife,make sure the corners are not real sharp,put it on the bottom side of that moulding and lightly tap it.This takes alot of patience to get them off w/o damage,take your time.

Which windows John?The windshield and rear window or side glass? The windshield and rear glass have lockstrip(the chromed plastic).Pull it out,dont wory about saving it youll probably need new,then your glass needs to come out to get the rubber gasket out.

Hard to see from your pic,you want as little bare metal exposed as possible.It will rust from the inside out if not treated properly.They make a product called PHIX,hit your bare metal spots with that if you cant prime again but atleast try and spot in those areas if you can after the metal has...

Well i never done this without repriming and if you dont have that option i guess you will have to make do.At this point guide coat will be pretty worthless if your not repriming i think cause if you have high spots you will continue to sand through your primer causing more bare metal spots and...

If i were doing it i would prime again,at least 2 coats not with the high build but a regular primer surfacer.This will fill your abrasive scratches from blocking with the 255.I have always blocked with 120 but 255 is still agressive.Blow it off good and wipe down with towels while you are...

Before you strip it hit the dings with the d/a,80 grit on grind.When its stripped youll see the ground spots.

I think Laysons just released that.PM Rick@Laysons.

Big block is starting to look like a rag,have new engine for it just need the time and money to finish.

I used one of these.Still took some modification but saved alot of time over what i was gonna do.Dartcuda had the right idea if you want it to look more factory but if your looking for a quick way to mount it and still be able to take it off later and replace the stock one without any mods...

http://www.yearone.com/serverfiles/fbshopmain2.asp?cat=A Bought a set for my 66 barracuda recently and there very nice.Can't tell from the oe ones as far as construction.Just the outers.

http://www.aegistools.com/catalog/Equalizer-Tools/Rope-Insert-Tool/ You can rope it in.I did my rear one that way on my 66,front i used the plastic sticks along with some dish soap and just work it in,seemed easier then the rope.Installed seal to body then put glass in.I had 2 people helping...

Same as a 76 Cordoba?My brother had one w/t-tops,trashed the car,and i remember seeing those t-tops in his garage after the car was scrapped.This has been atleast 13 yrs ago but maybe worth checking in to?

Nason makes a decent paint,never used it myself but i have used there primers and have had very good results.This is Duponts lower level line usually available where Dupont products are.

Probably a matter of opinion but if your not going to buff it out first Meguiars cleaner-wax would work fine and take away some of the oxidation,maybe do it twice if you dont have a machine. Best way would be to buff it out first,those old enamels usually clean up really well.Than wax it.

I also use the Wizards and meguiars wax and glaze products.Also use some products from PPC.I dont use the waxes but they have a great paint surface spray,PERFECT DETAIL and there FORMULA 2 is great for rubber and vinyl,has no silicone and isnt slimy.http://protectiveproductscorp.com/

No website but i found a 800 #.I"ll give them a shot.Thanks Ken.

Anybody know of a good pot metal rechroming outfit.