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If that's all flaming river that $250 covers the sticker. And you stole that other stuff.

Another one that might be a problem is rear spring bushing at the shackles. If they are gone that will definitely cause some popping.

My wagon used to do that real bad. Come to find out the upper control arm bushings were toast/dust in the wind. After replacing them the car actually drove where it was pointed.

I'm currently running a PST poly graphite kit. Still /6 torsion bars, but I've got the larger ones waiting to go in. Just changing out the bushings helped alot, but I still want to put in a front sway bar. Currently for front brakes I have 73 big bolt pattern disc, with 10 x 2 1/2" rear...

Check every piece of steering linkage. Including idler arm and mount bracket. Hopefully around your steering box is clean so you can check your welds as they are usually not the best to begin with and will crack or rip, usually at the most inopertune time.

I don't know what the part # is but your description sounds correct. There is a guy that makes a delron insert that gives actual support, as I think the only thing that the rubber one with the nylon center does is keep stuff out of the column.

For very important bolts like that my rule for steering components "either cotter pin or loc-tite"!!

What's wrong with the K in there now?

When you first set the car down with no spring pressure the tires gripped the floor while being severely pigeon toed as the alignment is way off with the car lowered. And when you backed up the tires trued back up a little settling the car down. Your tires might be hitting the fender and or...

The early v8 oilpan also has an extra bit of clearance compared to the later style. It has a extra notch on the sides of the belly part of the pan. I'll dig out my 64 273 pan that I have and take a pic when I get a chance.

The basic front end tool kit is around $120 when not on sale.

Yeah the tools are nice, bought a set but don't need them now, as I sold off the GT I was going to use them on. And my wagon already has a new front end.

This is so simple to answer. The factory put whatever the hell on they wanted. Even if it wasn't for that car at the time, if it fit and rolled it got one more down the line. Iv'e pulled cars apart, and engines and had different year parts in there that weren't supposed to be there. If they...

I have one in my wagon, but they also use the iso-mount=not good mounting. I did move the spring mounts in on mine also. As far as the springs themselves I don't know, besides the plate mounting etc...

when the weight was off the front end the tires came in closer together. And now that you've loaded weight back in the tires are gripping and not sliding back out. Try rolling the car around a little bit. Or even just jacking up the front end just enough to clear the floor and let it down...

If they ran short of the /6 ones they won't stop the line if they can throw in a v8 one.

Only for us early guys. 63-66 a bodies. You later guys have the same ones for either the 8 or /6, plus the extra room.

The vice grips will scar the bars and cause potential problems. The u-bolts will work better and you can reuse the bars without worries.

Make sure that you put a nut on there before you cut!! Or put on a die to recut the threads. I marked mine then cut them in my vice with a sawzall.

pretty much the same except for the allen wrench, it's a slot for a flat blade screwdriver

I think I might have one in my storage unit, not new but they aren't a wear part anyway.

I went and looked for the fitting and actually found it, and the original! One of the originals is a 90* but close to a -5 AN, and hard to readily find at the parts houses in stainless. The replacement I have is in -6 and 90*. Shoot me your address.

Not from the dealer or auto parts store I believe. The box fitting was originally a 45* if I recall and I've only seen them in 45* offhand. And I don't think the factory flare is the same as AN. I'll check my parts I think I still have one if you want.

When you pull out the old fitting bring it down to a local hydraulic repair shop and they will match it up to whatever degree you need. I picked one up for $2.50 a while back.

The 8 1/4 has 10 bolts on the cover and I believe that the 7 1/4 has only 9.

Do you have hub caps on? Sometimes with wheel flex you can get noises from them, or a bad wheel.

I picked up this piece in a deal. It fits the manual box input shaft and has the same size on the other end as a manual shaft. It looks just like the adapter for power to manual and is the same length, but both ends are sized the same just male and female. Basically the power to manual is...

good price to swap to manual steer for early A http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=300192148425&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=020 only at $28 and less than 4 hours not mine thought I'd pass it on

I'll just say he's "Da Man"

It's the same caliper dimensions as the darts all the bigger caliper mount does is move the caliper out a little for the bigger rotor diameter available.