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MoparKid -340Duster is in Mexico for a tad. :drinkers::drinkers:

I'm sure his comment is a joke, meaning very fast.:burnout:..that just perhaps you may not be able to handle it.

Hay Mike, :cheers: lol Jimmyboy hear from Canada...That's my sons Duster he's building. I go to Calgary every now and then to help him after the Signet sold years ago. Hope you and the family are all well down there!

Sounds good Bam!

Vid works 340Duster, I had cards on my bicycle once that sounded like that :toothy8:

Agree with OldmanRick. Backward movement of engine by hand should not harm.... Faulty - Weak lifters drained....after yourleak down. Check your oil level. Flash up the engine tell she warms up or to the sound of your orginal engine sound. Lifters should refill and be stiff. Turn off, and do a...

This is really-really late! :prayer: That was the "best" fix ever you gave me and now I'm helping my son..Thanks Longgone :thumrigh::thumrigh:

Right on Bill...Most Excellent!!

I hear ya! flexible line down the rail is a good choice. (perhaps the best)

What..you ran your orginal lines without a touch...well you lucky-man! I agee, everything is tight and close is alright if not touching.... Well, my headers (TTIs) were laying against the orginal cooling lines and the lines had no slack at all for any amount of extra bending or to move them...

I'm not sure how all the other guys did it however, this is my "quick" drawing to give you an idea how I re-routed the trans lines. They lay just above the pan lip now missing the header tubes that are tight against the pan. They then drop back down just forward of the mount to the rad. The...

Sorry fastback..I tried to take some pics...everythings so tight and high on the cooling lines I re-routed... ya can't see at all. Like I said earlier - I was lucky to have the trans and engine out and together so that I could do a dry run with the headers/starter on and did my own bending...

I heard of some guys doing that as well. I suppose it's just a *****/difficult getting the front end up about four feet + without a hoist.. Guess a guy could dig a hole..LOL Each to their own, whatever works.

Bill, If Steve can't get back to ya..As I remember "yes" you will need that "extra" room for header/engine movement even if you are dropping the motor between them...You'll be suprized just how tight things are! Besides, it's better then banging or getting fustrated having to pull everything...

Some info may help.. If you have the header bags still, re-wrap prior to install. (may help) - The short piece could be a ***** around the torsion bar (slow going) - make sure... Depending...You "may" run into trouble with your trans cooling lines. The TTi are nice and tight around the...

Don't have your setup Kid with intake and DP, however with a 14x 2" open filter I had to use a dropped lowered base pan to clear with my 318. (Just in case your wondering about non-stock Open)

Kid, I had the adaptor..but you don't need it! I now just use the shorty. Less places for leaks to happen and you have lots of room with the TTIs. Just ensure you put down rags when taking off. PS If headers are cold during change - I even put a small sheet of plastic below the filter first...

Hoping you can see this John!

Thanks Longgone, I'll give it a try! I completely understand your write-up. I just never thought "I" would need better then a Regular Plus Gas for my motor. I think i'm about 9.1 as the builder told me. BTW, Sure would like to be able to do a few strips like on your avator...

Thanks Jack!! I guess this is the stuff I kinda hate. All the curving and figuring!! My last name seems to fit well with bad luck).....whatever I do, just seems to go a step back and more cash. I will have to invest in a better timing light as mine has no dial or readout. Perhaps I will need a...

Yup. I do agree I must do something. It's a real drag to spend cash for improvements (upgrades) just to end up with more problems. (One step foreward, and two back). As I stated, if done by ear at idle and with (max) vacume then back off a tad she pings pretty bad, however performance isn't too...

:sign3: Is this a hard question? or just so simple "I" should be able to figure it out myself?? If anything...can someone at least tell me about the allen key in the vacume can. I think I've tried everything else advancing and retarding the dist... BTW, it's on the right port!:notworth:

In the past I have always had trouble timing the engine with a light and end up doing it by a vacume gauge and ear! If I use a light and try for a factory setting about 8/10* before the engine will die. I have a true TDC. When I use a vacume gauge and adjust the dist to get max vac she idles...

Most all SB (273 - 360) bolt-ons should fit no problem. (If you can find any)! Chrome water necks are mostly crap and only last about a year before the have to be changed. (my opinion). I think when it comes to "MOPARS" alot of stuff can be bought through Mopar Performace or places like...

You need a cyl inside micro guage, take a reading and subtract that from your true bore size. That will let you know how many K it's worn down. Someone here should know the limits if it's warn down too much.

I'm not sure if your trying to talk yourself out of something or not? If I were you I would take measurements and ask or have someone in the know take a close look at it to be sure. All the talk in the world can't change anything on the guts of it. I know it just sucks to put something back...

Yes, that should give you an indication of your cyl use just by the sight..If never re-built before I bet your bearings/jounals are in need!

Yup, your right Mike. My first buy was a 318 and trans from a high school for 600.00. Suppose to have been rebuilt..(maybe it was) but by a group of kids...:roll:The instructor flash it up and she ran good:evil4:..but only (for about 40 miles) after it was put in the car. The lower end was...

Right on Ron...I know what you mean!! A big differance. Car want too start just by looking at the key now. LOL :cheers:

Just re-confirm....did you test to ensure that your "run" and "start" wires were the correct ones with a voltmeter? Mine is a "brown" Check out below.