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I would imagine you have to torque them, but It is also recommended that you line hone the block with the studs installed. Have you planned on that??

Yea there's some guy out in the desert with two...or 8 or 9 of somethings. lol I'm moving back out that way the 27th, I'm sure I'll run into you sooner or later. :-D

W2's are a whole other animal vs your average bolt on head. But you do need a different style intake manifold, and headers or header adapters. It'll bring the cost up depending on where you 'find' or buy your parts. Personally, I will be buying a set of Magnum Edelbrock heads for my 360 when...

I'd highly recommend going with the ARP bolt kit. Pan, intake, valve covers, etc, etc all in one. Bit pricey, but since I built my engine, I've found myself buying a small arp set here and there..nearly as the cost of the entire kit by now. Oh, and get 6point heads. They are nice, high quality...

milled 360 heads, comp .480 cam, performer rpm intake, headers, good converter and 3.91s. My best was 13.68 on 30.5" (TALL) tires. It was daily driven at that point, not much for highway driving with the 3.91s, but has seen about 20,000miles in its current state.

Not sure, but make sure you upgrade your charging system and your cooling system is top notch before slowing the alternator and water pump down

I haven't done it, but i do have fittings and just a couple vague pictures somewhere...hmm

Another issue on the street for most is traction as well. So if you are running your 500ft/lb of torque, you better be able to lay it down or you'll get left about every time... If i had it my way, with my 3.91 and 3,500stall, i'd like to spin up to 6500-7000 if i had the cam and some port...

ah didnt notice that, my bad. Figured 8 3/4

Nice numbers! Its probably the Mopar Performance snubber, jegs/summit both have it.

Sorry to hear that wyo, i've had the same thing happen to my engine. Sucks. However it does open the door for some brand new shiney edelbrock heads :D

Alrighty so everything ran before you changed the rear main seal? Alrighty, you said piston at TDC, rotor pointing to #1, etc, etc...However. Is it on the Exhaust Stroke TDC, or Compression Stroke TDC? To tell you can stick your finger over the plug hole and crank it over by hand, pressure...

what kinda valve cover breathers are you running, also, running a pcv system?

Yup, and then remember that intake plumbing needs to make it all the way back up to the engine. When i go turbo, it'll be under the hood, 3rd gen Hemi.

Still pros and cons to both setups. Where would you mount the rear mount? Whole different ball game into picking the right turbo out due to a loss of heat (heat is what spools the turbo up) traveling down the exhaust. You still need to do a lot of plumbing back up to the engine as well...

Best bet would be to find a local speed shop/fabrication that can do that work for you. You can put the turbo on the 318, however some questions to consider before doing so. carb or efi? stock heads or aluminum? static compression ratio? cam selection? rpm range? automatic, manual, rear...

Do you want it to perform, or just sound good? May things come into play with cam selection, it, the gear ratio and torque converter are the most critical performance parts. If you change one with no concern for the other, don't expect much. Balance of the driveline is what determines the more...

You would have to redrill and tap all the intake mounting bolts. Why not just get a magnum carb intake? like an edelbrock air gap or something?

Did you have a timing light when you were doing this?

sb 727 works with a 318 .

i'd recommend putting a 'real' gauge on it to answer your question. my 318 pulls a strong 15psi hot oil pressure LOL about 50 at 6200rpm and its still runnin hard!

Hey wally, just a nother suggestion. If you compare heat ranges and lookup a plug for a magnum engine (put 1993, dodge ram, 1500, 5.9L) it will fit your LA head AND have 5/8" wrench instead of the big 13/16...helps with header clearance if you have issues.

with a better choice of pistons, stock edelbrock heads and a bigger cam. i'd go well into 12s with a 3600lb car with a 318.

So there are no other symptoms correct? It only does it when hot? Does it just die like you turn the key, or stumble up and stall? Is the choke opening? Is the accel pump shooting fuel when you hit the gas?

Absolutely mill the intake side of the head

you'll want teflon tape on the NPT fittings if there are any, AN or flare fit fittings will not need it.

holy cow, 40ft/lb? I did end up making 'studs' out of 1/4-20 all thread on my engine

Which gaskets are you using? Is the head flat? Is the valve cover flat?

I've heard good and bad, i think they work okay. there is extra casting that over hangs the engine, it is cheap, it works, but it looks cheap. i'd spend my money with the american company, that also keeps coming out with performance parts for our engines.

We talking a stock or modified 360?