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i see scars on the lifter on the second pic., evidence of lifter not circulating.

does it rattle at start up? id try adding a quart of oil or Lucus. mabey lifter bores are worn. you need to throw a cheap oil pressure unit on there to check pressure at high rpm.

my block was decked, heads milled a tiny bit and intake was resurfaced. it leaks on the bottom of the ports thru the gasket. (sucking oil into the intake). my suggestion is to if you have it decked or milled to take the intake and motor before you install it to have it matched by means of...

strokers cost $$ just take the318 400 hp article out of mopar mag and do it to a 360. i take that back its performance mag,or sumthing, but very popular. or nos.

sounds like a lack of gas after warm. also check fuel lines for hot spots if the fuel boils it will run like you say.

mine does this same thing. i was told and may try it if someone dont chime in, to just use some silicone no gaskets. i tried 3 gaskets already one even used a little silicone on it. they all allowed oil to be sucked in the intake ports both sides.

yes engine and tranny, thanks for the reply chief. can i leave the exaust on tti's while dropping? i hate dealing w/ jacking the car up and lifting the motor at the same time to get the tti's off/on.

i have never tried to drop a motor k frame and all. now that i have to switch my motor out to pass f&ing smog then turn right back around to put it back in(racing friday) i thought it may be little less of a hassel to drop the kframe and motor. i guess my ? is what does it take. torsion bars...

i have srp pistons and eagle crank. the crank seems to have flats ground on the counterweights to clear the pistons as well the block was clearanced at the bottom of the bores to clear the rods(eagle h beams).

maybe the oil pump shaft broke.

650 cca battery at 12.2 volts nothing (no spark) 750 cca battery at 12.5 v. one crank worth of sparking. 750 @ 13.4 volts started a few times till it dropped. then no more spark. seems to crank good with all batteries. maybe i need a bigger battery or better starter.its a stock mini starter...

while i was cleaning the dist. the magnetic pickups gap seemed a little far apart but dont believe its adjustable.

well still figuring out the problem. i can take the dist. out and turn it by hand and gets plenty of spark. but when in and turned by starter no spark, power at coil will drop to say 9.8ish. i did get her to spark a few times with a fresh charged battery but didnt last long. i will be trying a...

so could i, say tap the - on a ground to create a spark thru the coil.(figure it could possibly be the dist. not making ground) i currently have a tester on the end of the coil wire waiting to see spark.

coil reads power on both sides. i dont think thats good. new coil time, but first i will try a used one.

as of now i cant use the start position but in run its 11.85 volts msd calls for 12 but should work. prolly just a bad ground sumwhere.

k i thought i have everything right. the PSS switch prevents me from turning the car over but with the ignition on it has plenty of power to the + side of the coil, just no spark while cranking. it seems like the motor is not grounded but has solid motor mounts i thought no reason for a ground...

so the exaust leak was making all that noise, no way the pushrods would be that loud. hope you ported out the headers where you added the weld my ttis are gasket matched and quiet a bit of metal was ground out mainly the outside ports. good luck with yours mine is almost there.

lash caps and custom pushrods are another 200 bucks. thats what i needed to fit my 1.5 alum. cranes to my 60779s. nevermind the 40 dollar shaft shims not being used.

drilled thru deck, or should i say tapped into existing hole just below the deck surface. did find out that the hole runs into the main oil gallery and had to restrict the flow to the heads but it was fairly easy.

i run La heads on my magnum motor. it can be done pretty easily, every part in and on the motor is La application. the only magnum part is the better one piece oil pan gasket.

i shimmed the shaft and it only brings the roller closer to the exaust edge of the valve i need to bring it towards the shaft.

with just shaft bolted down its 3/4 to the exaust edge. with it halfway it only goes closer to the exaust edge but never over. it seems i can see the pattern where it goes back and forth but need to center it.

cool i will measure later i was just stuck inside getting my summit order ready for monday.

i have the La style eddies with the 1.5 crane rollers. my roller tip is a little to close to the exaust edge. i believe i need lash caps to correct the angle (to bring the roller closer to the shaft). now i believe the valves are .341 and can only find .343 and .345 lash caps at summit, do i...

yes sir.

only if you stack them you have to do anything. but wont hurt to look at the oil passage and make sure its clear.

rocker shims or shaft shims, are these mag heads. never heard of rocker shims for a shaft style rocker. but do have instructions for shaft shims if you want me to post.

had weights on my stock 360 727, since went to a internal balanced stroker kit. the weights on the converter were taken off and had it neutral balanced. weights had to be added to balance the converter. i wouldnt just take off weights without having it balanced.

if you have the studs just tighten them dry with sum plastigauge and see where your at you may still be able to use the studs. but personally id wait for a real motor for studs not just a rebuild. 400+hp for studs.... oh ya arp says only to mildly tighten the studs if you tighten to 70+ you...