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nope

were did you get the mc from? what kind is it?

when I put rear disks on my car I just used a stock MC made for front disk/rear drum setup and took the residual valve out of the MC for the rear brake port. No problems after 2 years.

If you're going to upgrade the front brakes why not go with a disk brake conversion as outlined here: http://www.moparaction.com/tech/archive/disc-main.html ?

I wonder if bypassing the rear brake ports on the stock prop valve will cause the brake warning sensor in the valve to go off. :dontknow:

I know there are a ton of articles out there on the conversion. When I did mine I found this one the most helpful without being overly loaded with extraneous information. http://www.moparaction.com/tech/archive/disc-main.html

RAYBESTOS or ACDELCO should be fine or the napa brand. NOT cardone

I am using a stock 73 duster MC with 4 wheel disk brakes. I just took the residual valve out of the front port in the MC.

I have stock 73 front disks with a stock 73 disk/drum MC (w/ residual value removed) and teh explorer disks in the back

You're correct. The brakes are from a 96 explorer. the housings, axles and bearings are 9in. 2800lb F100.

I have 96 explorer disk brakes on a 8 3/4 rear end. Unfortunately I don't know the specifics of how it was done as I bought the rear end with the conversion already done. I got the rear from 446acuda on BBD. There are some pictures of the brakes and rear here

my bet is on the flex line being clogged.

http://ecihotrodbrakes.com/dodge_plymouth_discbrake_conversions.html

eci has a kit for 65-72 a-bodies. (http://ecihotrodbrakes.com/dodge_plymouth_discbrake_conversions.html) IMO mp brakes sucks royally.

Try a ups store/boxes etc.. They should have packing foam sheets that you can cut to fit.

I have 96 for explorer rear disks brakes on my 8 3/4 rear end. The setup uses 9 in (2800 lb) F100 axle bearings. And as others mentioned before the car doesn't stop any better than it did with the 10" drums.

got any pictures?

Do you have drums in the front now? Are you changing the master cylinder? If not you need to remove the residual valve from the rear port on the MC.

A parts store probably won't have the hub available. A better bet would be a junk yard, ebay or the parts forum here.

it's your car no matter who does the work on it. That being said you can get pretty flexible coils of brake lines from napa or alike. They usually come in 25 ft lengths. they are pretty easy to form. Flaring the lines is the hardest part, but so long as you have a good flaring tool that isn't...

If by both sides, you mean passenger side and driver side then yes both are the same. If the rear brakes are from a 73 then they should have the large bolt pattern lugs. If you're not sure take the old ones in and match them to the new ones you are buying.

rebuilding a caliper is easy. Unfortunately the rebuild kits can cost almost as much as a new caliper. The problem could also be a partially plugged flex line, where pressure on the pedal is enough to engage the brakes but the plugged lined prevents the fluid from returning an relieving...

I went with the 73+ stock mopar hardware conversion. Got the hardware on mofarts for $250. http://www.moparaction.com/tech/archive/disc-main.html

From that link: So that one will work with front brakes and will mostly require extra work to get it to fit into your system properly. Do whatever you want, I can understand wanting a smaller booster. I would just ask yourself if it's worth the extra effort. That's my $.02.

what is the item number from jegs that you are thinking of buying? You will most likely have to do some modifications to make it fit and attach the pedal to. Why not just get a direct replacement unit from napa or rockauto?

Are the brakes working as well as they did before the flexible hose broke? If not, then you still have air in the system. Replacing a broken flexible hose would not cause the power booster to go bad or cause the rear brakes to go out of adjustment. BTW: the adjuster that ramenth mentioned is...

Sounds to me like you just need to bleed the brakes more. There is probably still some air in the system.

I had to use a dremel to open up that hole when I did my swap. If I remember correctly the old flex line had a flat on one side and the new line didn't. The hole in the bracket had the flat that lined up with the flat on the flex line. Actually I ground a flat on the flex line so it fit...

Here are some from swap. I used hardware from a 73 duster if that makes a difference. http://www.72scamp.com/front_brakes.php

I want to paint the brake drums on my car black. They were pretty rusty, but after a good amount of work I was able to all the surface rust off. However there is still a lot of pitting. I was thinking about applying a few coats of rust bullet and then some black paint. Will the rust bullet be...