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I had this problem on my 67 Barracuda. The little rubber ring was not fully “seated” in the master cylinder piston. It was part way in, far enough to keep the pedal rod from pulling out, but not all the way seated. If he can pull the pedal up 2”, I’d bet this is his issue.

I usually buy a pack of those “puffy” oversized mailers at Walmart. I can usually put small parts in them and send them USPS for a couple of dollars.

Make sure the bore of the wheel cylinders are the same on both sides. If the left wheel cylinder has been replaced it may not match the one installed on the right side. I believe there were different sizes of wheel cylinders based on disc/drum, power vs non-power brakes, etc.

Just a suggestion, after installing and bleeding the brakes I coat the bleeder with a big dab of gun grease. It keeps the bleeder from rusting to the wheel cylinder and will keep dirt out of the bleeder hole.

Nevermind...... I think I answered my own question. The early hub/rotor uses a spindle that has a smaller inner bearing surface. In order to use the unicast rotor you have to have the 73 and later spindle.

I know this is a B body question, but here goes. I have been given a set of front disc brakes off of a 1970 'Cuda. I want to convert my 1967 Satellite from drum to disc. The 70 'Cuda front discs use the two-piece rotor design and I want to use the later ('73 and up) unicast rotor. Does...

Yes, they did. I have a set I got off of a 1971 Plymouth Custom Suburban station wagon with a slant six. I didn't have any trouble getting new drums. I'm sure the local NAPA, Carquest or O'Reilly's could look them up for you.

Pull one off and take a shoe with you to the parts store.

My guess is someone wollowed out the holes in the firewall and the wires were too short to move it anywhere else. It must have a good ground to work.

Tap that bad boy in until that lip is even with the rotor. Other that that it looksssssss good!

What kit did you buy? I converted my 1967 Barracuda to ‘73 up BBP using parts from a ‘75 Duster and I’m running the 14” Rallye rims with 225/60R14 tires with no issues.

Another issue to check, and I know this from personal experience, make sure that little rubber ring on the brake rod is fully inserted into the end of the master cylinder piston. I thought mine was but it was only partially inserted making my brake pedal look normal but holding the piston in...

I just recently had this happen to my Dodge truck. I was losing fluid and couldn't find a leak or see any fluid on the firewall, booster or the outside of the master cylinder. It wound up being a small hole in the booster diaphragm, the master was leaking into the booster and the fluid was...

I'm in Kansas City and I got mine at Car Quest. I don't know what size they are but I told to guy at the counter what car I had and he brought out two or three that he thought would work. I took them home and used the ones that worked then too the others back. I hope this helps. It was a...

Yes, that's it!

You know it's too late to help out valianteffrt with his broken bleeder, but when I put on new wheel cylinders or calipers, after the brakes are bled, I will slather on a good coating of gun grease to the outside of the bleeder. It keeps the water from rusting the bleeder and often keeps dirt...

If everything is all stock, like you say it is, my suggestion would be that maybe sometime in the past someone put bigger wheel cylinders on the back brakes. If you do have disc brakes on the front there should be a proportioning valve integral with the distribution block. If you have drum...

Can you find a right side brake drum and put it on the left?

It is normal for the pedal to drop a little after the engine is started with vacuum assist brakes. Once you have engine vacuum to the booster it makes it easier to apply the brakes so what you are experiencing is normal.

This is exactly correct. I bought mine from Moser as well. On the phone they asked three questions: 1) What brakes will you be using A body or B Body? 2) What year is your car? 3) What rear is in it? My axles fit perfectly the first time. I used the B Body 10"X1 3/4" brakes, the backing...

Here is a picture of the right front side of my 1967 Barracuda. You can see the brake hose near the middle of the picture. It has a somewhat square connector on the end with a hole in it for a banjo bolt. It gives a nice 90 degree fitting and has worked well for me since 1987.

If you put the rod in a vise then grab a larger (7/8 or 15/16) open end wrench you can wedge it in between the vise and master cylinder and pry the master cylinder off the end of the push rod. As suggested a hammer works too, but I find the wrench method eliminates the possibility of breaking...

Here a pic of the banjo connection on my car. Not a very good one but you get the idea.

Use a banjo connector like in this picture. Most of the times the banjo end of the brake hose has a 3 inch pipe on it and you can bend it just enough to work.

OK I finally had a chance to go out into the garage and work on my brake pedal being too high. I thought I had the wrong master cylinder but the trouble turned out to be I didn't have the push rod and that little rubber keeper all the way seated in the end of the piston. See what I found when...

Here is what my pedals look like with the master cylinder installed. There is a significant difference in the pedal height. I'm going to remove the master cylinder and see if I can work with my local NAPA store (the guys are pretty cool) to find the right one. The master I removed had the...

I'm not sure about the length of my push rod, but OldManMopar said they were all the same from 73 back to 67 so I will agree with that. My 1967 Barracuda came from the factory with the four piston fixed calipers in front and manual master cylinder. When I upgraded my brakes back in 1987 with...

I also have this problem. I have a 1967 Barracuda that I swapped over to disc brakes back in 1987. My donor vehicle was a 1974 Duster so when the master cylinder started leaking I ordered a new one for manual disc/drum and I have the same pedal problem. I already took my old master cylinder...

I think I have answered my own question. I have the calipers mounted in the rear at the 2 o'clock position and I need to move them to the 10 o'clock position in front of the knuckle. I will be swapping sides this weekend then my hoses should line right up. I appreciate you helping me and...

Hey Thanks! I'm referring to the rubber hose that goes from the hardline mount to the caliper. Any help would be appreciated.