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Based on my experience, I'd go with FirmFeel.

Assuming your talking about the AlterK (front)? It depends on what you currently have, ie manual steering, brakes and what options you want with the new front. It's usually 75-95 lbs with the switch from what I have read.

Agree with MoparDude...

More info needed.....

Tucking the wheels that high in the tub will bring your axle tubes right up to the frame rails. On a hard corner or bump The axle tube will hit

I'd do coil overs or an air ride set up at the ride height your looking for. Easier to make finite adjustments since your pushing the limits on fitment. Your probably going to look at notching the rear rails as your building your tubs.

Same wheels/sizes.....they are just powdercoated now, and covered in tape. Good luck on the build, stay patient with it.

I hope your weren't including me in the "big wheel haters".....since you didn't address my question? Obviously it's not the case......:shaking2:

What diameter tire you plan on the front? Depending on taste, your front to rear proportion may be odd (tall rears - short fronts). The front is only going to take 24-25.5" tall tire.

The speedway bars are for sure.

You can also do a panhard bar, but it will not be as effective as the sway bar above

http://www.1speedway.com/Swaybars.htm With your four link a bolt in bar will most likely not work. The vertical bar in the pic is just a square piece of tubing I used before I used before getting the coilovers. Good thing about the Speedway series is that you can just swap the bars if you...

A single adjustable shock is more than most will use as far as tuning.....I looked at a stock pile of companies from Pen$ke's-Afco-RideTech-QA1 etc..with my Demon project. Ended up with a single adjustable from QA1 as the number$$ get crazy

Hotchkis, FirmFeel, RMS, MagnumForce.....

Front snout bars. The pic is from a couple years ago.....but the cage is the same. Tied in the coilover mount

I'll PM ya rapom65....yeah I've been told about the thread. Im just not a good listener

:burnout: thanks

9" coil in the rear, 8" in the front. I had several conversations with a couple builders about my setup and intended usage of the car to get the sizes.

Lowest clearance is 4.75" at the front subframe rails. Nothing hangs lower than the rails. Coilovers all around, 600# front, 220# rear springs........will probably go down from there

Right on....I would take all the steps necessary on a clean install. An aftermarket column will give you some freedom on spacing

Where the heck are you planning on fitting your turbos??? Going to be tight anywhere.....especially if your planning on puttting them down low

Summit racing, jegs etc........lots of vendors carry them

http://www.ididitinc.com/accessory_pages/floor_mounts.htm#swivelballfloormount Firewall needs to be flat, but it looks real clean when installed

An aftermarket column can give you more room, as far as the part number I am not sure off the top of my bald head. It's universal 32" column though from Ididit using their billet firewall mount Pic from awhile ago

Ididit column, looks way better than the stock column.

Sounds cool

Why not replace that section of the frame?

Disagree. Several competent pro's in my area blast everything and do not warp any panels. Guy I just used left about the equivalent of a 120 grit paper finish on my fenders, very nice. He charged me $60 for two fenders and did them in about an hour. You CAN NOT get it as clean with a wire...

Agree with ^..........dont worry about em

One of the most important aspects not mentioned yet is DRIVER EXPERIENCE........Gotta have the seat time. If I remember correctly the owner of the red 68 Valiant above is a driving instructor, has a lot to do with how fast that car is.