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The early la 360 had a steel tag bolted to the back of the head. It was triangler in shape and obvious easy to remove. The later magnum I had, just had a yellow sticker on the bell housing area with a barcode and part number I believe, again easily removed.

Wow! Guess they drove it that way awhile

The TTI W-2 header would be a better port match or any W-2 header for that matter. But the regular headers should work.

I have the 245cc ported version of the 360-1 heads from indy. No problem here but I have nowhere near 600-700 passes on them.

Great little engine in my opinion. You have the older LA style or Magnum engine?

Mopar cam keys are a stupid amount of money. $68 for the kit of five from jegs.

I think I would opt for one that doesn't have any casting flaw given a choice.

Lift plates work great in place of the carb.

I not sure if there was any X block better than another going by year or any other visual. I'm sure if you had a few of them you might be able to pick the best one by sonic checking the cylinders for thickness. The X blocks and other race type blocks are out there in the used market place...

Who has the best prices on a nice forged flat top piston these days, 340 block 4" stroke standard 6.123 rods?

I have a X block and they certainly look very similar to a R block. They are missing the extra cylinder head bolt holes that are found on the R blocks. The one I have is a four bolt bottom end. I would think the bottom end would be similar strength wise. If the price was right on a X block buy...

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Forgot to mention how much I hate removing spiral locks.:banghead:

I was running this through my head last night as well. Was ready to start fresh and then it occurred to me that I have two other stroker 340's with forged cranks that I could spend less money on and finish. So this morning I continued to remove clean and tag parts. Hit the pistons with the soda...

I checked the converter, flex plate, and balancer way before pulling the engine. They all seem to be a neutral balance. The crank bought new has a 2050 gram bob weight. After digging into this a bit deeper my crank seems to be balanced with holes drilled and material removed from the counter...

No signs of hammer abuse. I no expert but tend to agree with moper above in that the balancer was unable to handle the excess harmonics. Must likely do to a lack of a quality balance job and or possibly no balance at all. This is the result of ignoring the symptoms. But of course I am open to...

I'm not sure who or even if the assembly was balanced. Says right on the Jegs website for this kit. That it is not balanced. Supposedly a reputably builder in the Lancaster area built it. Hard for me to imagine anybody building a performance motor without addressing that. Although out of all the...

Little research and I see that my weighing of the piston and rod assemblies doesn't mean anything regarding bob weight. I did notice the front of the crank where the balance mounts is galled up a bit. Wonder if that could be a cause or a result of my issue. I'm pretty sure everything was new...

The 360/408 in my Dart has always had a minor but irritating vibration or harmonic that has just bugged the **** out of me. I didn't build the engine so I'm not sure if it was internally balanced or not when assembled. Anyways I pulled it out a year ago and installed a Mopar magnum 360/390HP...

Looks good to me. Make sure you have some sort of lube or assembly lube on contact area's for your start up.

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I currently have that same 10 degree bushing in my car as well. It idles really nice. I did take it to the track once with the 10 degree bushing and my 60' and ET are suffering. I can't say for sure if it has to do with the distributor and curve set up, but I suspect it does. More track testing...

I have been playing with this 360/380 mopar engine in my Dart. I have found that the timing and distributor curve can make a huge difference in performance. So far I have seen the best results with 16 degree initial timing and 34 total all in by 2200rpm I do have headers, a mild 11" street...

Oh that looks like it's going to be fun. What stroke crank you have in the bottom end? Are you using the 360-1 or -2 Indy heads?

Need to narrow the problem down is it crank only? Bearings right? I had a motor line bored that some how the machine shop screwed up the thrust bearing cap. When I torqued that one cap down the crank would stop turning.

Awesome work!

Here in California you can't hardly give away a 273 motor. I would value the motor anywhere from nothing to $100 dollars max.

Be interesting to see how that motor does in drag week.

Don't know why they break. I had one break recently on a Mopar Performance crate engine. It probably had about a 1,000 miles or less on it to.

Edlebrock was giving shop tours yesterday. I guess they do them about once a year. Not sure how or why, but I was sent an email invitation over a month ago. So I reserved a spot and took the drive down to Torrance yesterday to participate. It's pretty amazing the technology they have at their...