1/2-20 Time-sert sleeve for oil pan drain ?

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Mattax

Mattax

Just the facts, ma'am
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Any experience with 1/2-20 TIMESERT oil pan plug thread repair?
or know anyone who does?

They have note on their website to use the ones for cast aluminum pans on a sheet metal pan where an oversized thread has been used. see www.timesert.com/html/drainplugNote4.html

So I sent them an e-mail asking what the working range was for the insert, and they wrote back
"The 1/2-20 drain plug kit includes inserts of .400 length, your drain
pan thickness should be at least .400 thick."

I don't know of any sheet metal pans that are at least .4" thick - except may be early ones with a nut welded to the inside?

Is that note suggesting using the 1/2-20 .4" long sleeves only for oil pans with a welded bung?
 
No experience with the timesert style repair but Dorman makes a few different sizes of “oversized” 1/2-20 drain plugs.
 
I don't know anything about the Timesert, but I remember using an oversized self tapping drain plug years ago that worked.
 
The self-tappers are pretty junky. I'm not sure how it got messed up in the first place but the OS self tapper is what stripped out the threads this time. Dummy me tested it on the bench to 30 ft lbs, but without a sealing washer. That difference was enough that it failed at less the 15 ft pounds when installed. :BangHead:

I have double oversize and triple oversize for emergencies but I was looking for better options. I always had treated the OS 1/2-20 with kid gloves until I was able to test it on the bench. But it always dripped 'cause it wasn't close to installed torque.
Agood mechanic I know had suggested Time-sert, but hadn't used it on sheet metal pans.
 
Ouch. Is pulling the pan and welding a nut to the backside an option?
 
The insert might be for cast aluminum oil pans, I don’t think it will work on a sheet metal pan. I have welded a nut on a pan to repair it already.
 
TT5.9mag said:
Ouch. Is pulling the pan and welding a nut to the backside an option?
Click to expand...
Maybe it might have to be. That's why I was banging my head. To do a good job the pan once reinstalled will have to sit overnight na dbe retightened.
I use O-A and that is extra difficult in corners, never mind inside a 'box'.
upload_2022-8-11_13-53-51-png.png

Another option is to use the pan shown above, although it had a rust hole the machine shop brazed from the outside. So the pan's lifespan may be somewhat limited...

This pan (shown below) had no deep pitting, just hte compromised drain plug. :(
upload_2022-8-11_13-58-39-png.png


upload_2022-8-11_13-56-17-png.png
 
TT5.9mag said:
Ouch. Is pulling the pan and welding a nut to the backside an option?
Click to expand...
Why would the nut need to be welded to the back side.
You can weld the nut to the outside if you get the perimeter of the nut welded/sealed. You could also tack a flat washer on the front of the nut if the gasket on the bolt needed a larger land.
This would save dropping the oil pan.
 
A nut welded to the outside would need to be welded 360* to be leak free. Then the outer surface needs to be flat and large enough to provide a bearing surface for the sealing washer.

edit: Photo added showing the limited access for a torch or other head due to the diff and axle tube
upload_2022-8-11_18-20-6.png
 
Last edited:
Mattax said:
Maybe it might have to be. That's why I was banging my head. To do a good job the pan once reinstalled will have to sit overnight na dbe retightened.
I use O-A and that is extra difficult in corners, never mind inside a 'box'.
View attachment 1715968892
Another option is to use the pan shown above, although it had a rust hole the machine shop brazed from the outside. So the pan's lifespan may be somewhat limited...

This pan (shown below) had no deep pitting, just hte compromised drain plug. :(
View attachment 1715968893

View attachment 1715968894
Click to expand...
Maybe a local college or fab shop could tig it for you. Sucks there’s not really a simple solution here.
 
Chevy duramax uses a 14mm plug. You could buy a tap and that’ll be an easy fix.
 
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
Oversized thread plug or just get a nut and a bolt and weld that nut to the mo'fkin pan ...and done.
Click to expand...
That is looking to be the plan. I'll try the double oversize self-tapper and if that fails to hgold at a reasonably tight torque, drop the pan. I have the original one off this engine that I can use for at least short term. The machine shop brazed the one rust hole and drain plug is good.

upload_2022-8-11_18-11-47-png.png


upload_2022-8-11_18-9-9-png.png


upload_2022-8-11_18-7-13-png.png
 
I do the welded nut thing alot on TF trans, so I can drain the trans without getting a face full. If you go this route, the pan needs to be removed, and the nut welded on the outside of the pan. That way, the nut won't keep that small amount of oil in the bottom of the pan. I would tig weld it for best results.
 
Matt this is what I was telling you about, cannot seem to find them now though.
OPR6_OPR10_a036001c1644939be8968e913e19aae0.jpg
 
Back in the garage, finally.

halifaxhops said:
Matt this is what I was telling you about, cannot seem to find them now though.
View attachment 1715969654
Click to expand...
Not see those.

TT5.9mag said:
Chevy duramax uses a 14mm plug. You could buy a tap and that’ll be an easy fix.
Click to expand...
That may work. I need to check the dimensions.
If not Lisle has an oversize tapp & drain plug set that covers 12mm , 1/2", 14 mm
or I'll remove the pan and get it welded.
 
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