10's on $5,000 ?

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pittsburghracer said:
It gets old buddy. He already said he doesn't want to use nitrous. I will use my ignore button for the first time on you so I don't call your nitrous posts weeny again. Sorry, BYE.
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This guy has got to be one of the biggest hypocrites on the Forum... Smart *** everywhere you look.. loves to make a big public announcement when he put you on ignore so his followers can cheer him on..
Big deal no loss... You're only going to get the same 5 answers from this Ford lover anyways...
 
j par said:
This guy has got to be one of the biggest hypocrites on the Forum... Smart *** everywhere you look.. loves to make a big public announcement when he put you on ignore so his followers can cheer him on..
Big deal no loss... You're only going to get the same 5 answers from this Ford lover anyways...
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And look who has to go on and on about someone whose not said a word about him in forever. That's cool man. Yall got what you want. I am tired of it.
 
If the car is pretty much gutted out anyways I would wait till you get down to the 11-5 mark if such a thing happens...
An 8-point cage is a couple of few hundred dollars to the door and then $89 Harbor Freight welder LOL you're not going to need it certified tell your down to 10 seconds flat or lower.. they just look at it and make sure it's in there... Of course I'm not endorsing this as the safest way to go...
 
RustyRatRod said:
And look who has to go on and on about someone whose not said a word about him in forever. That's cool man. Yall got what you want. I am tired of it.
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Good be gone with ya.. you're freaking hypocrite completely! you're everywhere jabin at everything but if someone else does anything like that you're all over them... I don't have any use for you at all... BYE...
 
j par said:
If the car is pretty much gutted out anyways I would wait till you get down to the 11-5 mark if such a thing happens...
An 8-point cage is a couple of few hundred dollars to the door and then $89 Harbor Freight welder LOL you're not going to need it certified tell your down to 10 seconds flat or lower.. they just look at it and make sure it's in there... Of course I'm not endorsing this as the safest way to go...
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the car, whatever it may end up being, will have to show faster than a 11.5 before it gets a cage. Post 136
 
I also like the short box Dakota plan.

My only concern would be headers.
Are they available cheap?
Are cheap headers close enough to fitting that making them work isn’t a huge hassle?

A “nice” 65-77 B body will be easiest in the long run........ unless you stumble across a 4dr Dart or something.

I’m gonna throw this suggestion out there now.......
Look for a deal on a used tunnel ram.
 
I
PRH said:
I also like the short box Dakota plan.

My only concern would be headers.
Are they available cheap?
Are cheap headers close enough to fitting that making it work is a huge hassle?

A “nice” 65-72 B body will be easiest in the long run........ unless you stumble across a 4dr Dart or something.
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One thing about it, time is on my side. I don't care if I buy the purposed car tomorrow or in June. It will almost for sure be a 4 door car just because of pricing and the fact that it will be a direct bolt in. I'd love to use a B-body, but again, pricing will probably force my hand towards a FMJ body. But hey, you never know.... :)
 
The Fbody worked good for me, but with all of them your going to have problems with headers unless you can find a set of Hooker fenderwells for an Abody.
 
There is a lot of weight in the bumpers on an Fbody, the crash bar and absorbers front and rear realy add up. Take the crash bars out of the doors, strip under cote and the interior, whatever you can do to pull lbs out of the car.
 
Oldiron440 said:
There is a lot of weight in the bumpers on an Fbody, the crash bar and absorbers front and rear realy add up. Take the crash bars out of the doors, strip under cote and the interior, whatever you can do to pull lbs out of the car.
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trust me on this… lol
 
Oldiron440 said:
My point was you can pull 350 to 400 pounds from the car easily to offset the big block 727.
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I'd like whatever car I end up with to weigh less than 3000 (without driver) with the big block. Even 2950 would make me happy.
 
Aside from the heads, what parts do you have that you are planning on using?
 
69conv said:
Aside from the heads, what parts do you have that you are planning on using?
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I have a couple things I bought like Headers I'll be using, and a few more things I made a deal on that I will be getting soon. I don't want the parts selection to turn this into a parts selection debate.... lol. I'll certainly post every part I buy and use and it will be charged against the 5k dollars.
 
PRH said:
I also like the short box Dakota plan.

My only concern would be headers.
Are they available cheap?
Are cheap headers close enough to fitting that making them work isn’t a huge hassle?

A “nice” 65-77 B body will be easiest in the long run........ unless you stumble across a 4dr Dart or something.

I’m gonna throw this suggestion out there now.......
Look for a deal on a used tunnel ram.
Click to expand...
Most of the guys running big blocks in dakotas are using hooker fender well A headers. Being a full frame deal, one of A&Rs motor plates and a solid transmission mount may give enough clearance for a set of chassis pro type headers, but it may take some frinding on the block and frame rails to pull it off. Someone recently introduced me to a strange local phenomenon in our nearby Facebook marketplaces. We are ground zero in a 150 mile radius of a scourge of two wheel drive Dakotas of late eighties to mid nineties vintage. Most aren’t running and can be had for $350-$500.
 
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