aaronk785
Well-Known Member
And a big rubber band. LOL
This guy has got to be one of the biggest hypocrites on the Forum... Smart *** everywhere you look.. loves to make a big public announcement when he put you on ignore so his followers can cheer him on..It gets old buddy. He already said he doesn't want to use nitrous. I will use my ignore button for the first time on you so I don't call your nitrous posts weeny again. Sorry, BYE.
This guy has got to be one of the biggest hypocrites on the Forum... Smart *** everywhere you look.. loves to make a big public announcement when he put you on ignore so his followers can cheer him on..
Big deal no loss... You're only going to get the same 5 answers from this Ford lover anyways...
Good be gone with ya.. you're freaking hypocrite completely! you're everywhere jabin at everything but if someone else does anything like that you're all over them... I don't have any use for you at all... BYE...And look who has to go on and on about someone whose not said a word about him in forever. That's cool man. Yall got what you want. I am tired of it.
that took way to long. just overlooked it.
the car, whatever it may end up being, will have to show faster than a 11.5 before it gets a cage. Post 136If the car is pretty much gutted out anyways I would wait till you get down to the 11-5 mark if such a thing happens...
An 8-point cage is a couple of few hundred dollars to the door and then $89 Harbor Freight welder LOL you're not going to need it certified tell your down to 10 seconds flat or lower.. they just look at it and make sure it's in there... Of course I'm not endorsing this as the safest way to go...
Know matter what you say there's a good chance you will piss someone off. At least that's the way it works for me!And look who has to go on and on about someone whose not said a word about him in forever. That's cool man. Yall got what you want. I am tired of it.
One thing about it, time is on my side. I don't care if I buy the purposed car tomorrow or in June. It will almost for sure be a 4 door car just because of pricing and the fact that it will be a direct bolt in. I'd love to use a B-body, but again, pricing will probably force my hand towards a FMJ body. But hey, you never know....I also like the short box Dakota plan.
My only concern would be headers.
Are they available cheap?
Are cheap headers close enough to fitting that making it work is a huge hassle?
A “nice” 65-72 B body will be easiest in the long run........ unless you stumble across a 4dr Dart or something.
Now you're thinking like me!....I’m gonna throw this suggestion out there now.......
Look for a deal on a used tunnel ram.
trust me on this… lolThere is a lot of weight in the bumpers on an Fbody, the crash bar and absorbers front and rear realy add up. Take the crash bars out of the doors, strip under cote and the interior, whatever you can do to pull lbs out of the car.
I'd like whatever car I end up with to weigh less than 3000 (without driver) with the big block. Even 2950 would make me happy.My point was you can pull 350 to 400 pounds from the car easily to offset the big block 727.
I have a couple things I bought like Headers I'll be using, and a few more things I made a deal on that I will be getting soon. I don't want the parts selection to turn this into a parts selection debate.... lol. I'll certainly post every part I buy and use and it will be charged against the 5k dollars.Aside from the heads, what parts do you have that you are planning on using?
I think a little bit of work/$$ in the shortening process? Hoping I have the rear end/gears covered.An 8.8 Explorer axle assembly with a LD 4.11 gear is only $150.
Most of the guys running big blocks in dakotas are using hooker fender well A headers. Being a full frame deal, one of A&Rs motor plates and a solid transmission mount may give enough clearance for a set of chassis pro type headers, but it may take some frinding on the block and frame rails to pull it off. Someone recently introduced me to a strange local phenomenon in our nearby Facebook marketplaces. We are ground zero in a 150 mile radius of a scourge of two wheel drive Dakotas of late eighties to mid nineties vintage. Most aren’t running and can be had for $350-$500.I also like the short box Dakota plan.
My only concern would be headers.
Are they available cheap?
Are cheap headers close enough to fitting that making them work isn’t a huge hassle?
A “nice” 65-77 B body will be easiest in the long run........ unless you stumble across a 4dr Dart or something.
I’m gonna throw this suggestion out there now.......
Look for a deal on a used tunnel ram.
Just leave that too wide rear axle alone and cut and roll your fender wells. Bring back the seventies!I think a little bit of work/$$ in the shortening process? Hoping I have the rear end/gears covered.