1963 Dart 170 2 Door Post Resto

[Harold Wolk]

Beautiful photo and commentary documentation above! The car, and it's components, look great. Question for you, since you seem like a detail-man. I'm reassembling a 67 Signet, in Ireland. I'm wondering if you did any cleaning/restoring of the Package Tray? I'm pondering what to do with mine. Any thoughts or insights are appreciated.

 

[Mineallmine]

Beautiful photo and commentary documentation above! The car, and it's components, look great. Question for you, since you seem like a detail-man. I'm reassembling a 67 Signet, in Ireland. I'm wondering if you did any cleaning/restoring of the Package Tray? I'm pondering what to do with mine. Any thoughts or insights are appreciated.

I cleaned the top completely and even filed off the sharp burrs that were still present from the original spot welds. Underneath I hand sanded as well as I could and epoxy primed, sealed and painted it. Originally it wouldn't have gotten fully sprayed as it was difficult to access (mine had lots of bare metal showing), but I wanted to clean it up better so it wouldn't flash rust again. It's mostly hidden unless you look up from under inside the trunk, but I wanted it as clean as I could get it. It's not perfect my any means, but it does look pretty good overall.

 

[Harold Wolk]

Thanks for the response. Much appreciated. I should have been more specific. I'm wondering about the 'cardboard' package-tray/shelf itself. My original is in pretty good condition and I feel I'd be sacrilege to paint it. I was wondering what folks have used to clean/preserve/restore the outer cardboard material.

 

[Mineallmine]

Thanks for the response. Much appreciated. I should have been more specific. I'm wondering about the 'cardboard' package-tray/shelf itself. My original is in pretty good condition and I feel I'd be sacrilege to paint it. I was wondering what folks have used to clean/preserve/restore the outer cardboard material.

I bought new. I think a mild cleaner on a rag would be best to clean it. Nothing too harsh as it would possibly damage the coating. I would test it on a less conspicuous area first to confirm it doesn't damage anything.

It also wouldn't hurt to start a thread asking this question as I'm sure there's lot on here with much more knowledge than me on how to clean this without damaging it.

 

[Harold Wolk]

Thanks for the good input. Yeah it might be a good question for a new thread. I might look at it again and then reach out if it's still illusive. Thanks again for the message.

 

[Mineallmine]

So, my wife and I after some discussion have decided that we are going to have to let the Dart go. The original reason for building it was so we could drive it daily in the summer and go to shows all over. After driving the Dart last year and only a little this year we found that the dart is geared poorly for any long drives (revs way to high on the HWY). Also, with the manual brakes and steering it is very difficult for my wife to drive it around town (a little wider tires didn't help either..lol)

I seriously thought about doing and engine upgrade and power steering/brakes, but the cost to do this (and the fact that it's a 63, which would require firewall modifications) we decided it was best to pass it along to someone else to enjoy as it is a solid Arizona car (didn't want to start cutting it up) and all original except color.

Therefore, I started to get it ready for sale this week. There was a couple spots on the cowl that started to bubble and one on the wheel well. The wheel well was easy to figure out. It got a stone chip and the moisture caused it to bubble. The cowl was odd. This is an Arizona car and was rock solid. I decided I wasn't selling it as is so I sanded it down to find the issue to address correctly. What I found was it was right at the edge of the lead seam where the cowl meets the pillars on both sides had a small seam in the lead by the edge of the metal that moisture got into when painting (must have missed it originally) and that caused the paint to bubble. Fortunately it was only surface rust as I caught it before it went any farther. I decided to grind it out until I got to a clean point (where the separation in the lead/body panel ended), clean it all good and apply new. Didn't do as good as factory but good enough. I filed it down and applied a very thin coat of fiberglass to clean up the slight imperfections. I use fiberglass as it doesn't absorb moisture and I find it does a much better job in the long run. Fortunately this only needed to be done on the drivers corner. The passenger it was on the surface so a quick clean and spray with epoxy and a coat of 2K and I was good to go. Same for the wheel well. There was a chip in the paint on the edge of the pillar where the drip rail stainless meets the pillar so I addressed that at the same time as well.

This was my first time ever trying to do a paint blend (hell, it was the first time I've painted a car) and I think it went very well. Read a bunch and learned how to create a "soft edge" with folding tape over so one edge doesn't actually contact the body. It worked really well. Just need to do a small bit of wet sanding and polish to blend it all in. Put on lots of clear too so it will hold up and be easy to wet sand/blend.


After this, I have to just clean and polish the entire car, do an oil change and replace the trunion boot (apparently critter like to chew on it when parked so it has a hole in it. Stupid soy based rubber). It only has about 2000km on the restore but I still plan to go over everything before putting it up for sale.

 

[mygasser]

shame it has to go after all the work you've done. you mentioned bulkhead mod's to upgrade the engine and steering/brakes. what were you thinking of swapping to as most 'normal upgrades won't need any bulkhead changes at all, maybe the lip flattening where the tunnel meets the bulkhead for a 727/ big block swap. but i assume you weren't thinking of a daily driver big block car, lol.
anyway good luck with the sale, someone's about to benefit from all your good work.
neil.

 

[abdywgn]

Glad you are not closer! Yes, good luck with the sale. Hope it's quick and relatively painless.

 

[Dne007]

Makes me sad, but I do understand your reasoning. We so get used to modern day cars, makes classic cars feel dangerous, and sadly, they kind of are. Would you and your wife like another classic car? If so, what? Obviously something with power brakes, steering, etc. and down here in Houston(Cypress), I put AC in everything!

Just for fun, had you priced out installing power steering/brakes, etc. I always thought a set of mags might make your car Pop even more;)
dne'

 

[Mineallmine]

Makes me sad, but I do understand your reasoning. We so get used to modern day cars, makes classic cars feel dangerous, and sadly, they kind of are. Would you and your wife like another classic car? If so, what? Obviously something with power brakes, steering, etc. and down here in Houston(Cypress), I put AC in everything!

Just for fun, had you priced out installing power steering/brakes, etc. I always thought a set of mags might make your car Pop even more;)
dne'

Yes, we are considering another classic. Actually, already have a few...lol.

We have a 1948 international KB2 we are building for my wife. She wants to drive it daily so we are putting in a 5.3 LS with a 4L60E trans with a Ford Explorer 8.8 rear with posi and disc brakes. Also installing a IFS with power steering and brakes. We have a floor shift Lokar shifter that looks like the original floor shift so it keeps it's original look with all of the modern driveability/reliability.

I have a 1951 International 1/2 ton that I haven't decided on how I'm going yet (original or modern). We don't mind original for something driven once in a while, but we want one we can use comfortably every day in the summer. This one will probably go original for now as we will have my wagon and my wife's truck for daily enjoyment.

I also just purchased a 1966 Impala wagon. It came with no drivetrain but is an original power steering/brake car. Plan is to install a "massaged" 5.3LS and 4L60E trans. Rest will be pretty much original besides adding vintage air. We intend to take this across Canada and into the States. I've always had a soft spot for the big wagons of this era.

I did look into the power steering/brakes and upgrading the rear but as anyone knows on the early A's it adds up rear quick. I figured it was time to call it and let it go to someone else to enjoy.

 

[Mineallmine]

shame it has to go after all the work you've done. you mentioned bulkhead mod's to upgrade the engine and steering/brakes. what were you thinking of swapping to as most 'normal upgrades won't need any bulkhead changes at all, maybe the lip flattening where the tunnel meets the bulkhead for a 727/ big block swap. but i assume you weren't thinking of a daily driver big block car, lol.
anyway good luck with the sale, someone's about to benefit from all your good work.
neil.

All the research I did shows the 273 (I actually already had a core to build) will not fit in a 63 as the wiper motor mount point on the firewall interferes with the distributor. I read somewhere where a guy did a full custom distributor but it was a pretty complex milling operation I don't have the tools to get into. I already sourced all the original brackets and engine mounts and exhaust manifolds for the swap when I found this out. Also have the correct drag link as well for a V8 swap. Just decided I didn't want to cut into such a clean body.

 

[mygasser]

at least you have an early 'a' v8 fitting kit to offer the buyer or sell on seperately, lol.
neil.

 

[abdywgn]

All the research I did shows the 273 (I actually already had a core to build) will not fit in a 63 as the wiper motor mount point on the firewall interferes with the distributor. I read somewhere where a guy did a full custom distributor but it was a pretty complex milling operation I don't have the tools to get into. I already sourced all the original brackets and engine mounts and exhaust manifolds for the swap when I found this out. Also have the correct drag link as well for a V8 swap. Just decided I didn't want to cut into such a clean body.

I'm not good verbally describe what I picture in my head, so please bear with me. For the distributor, hack it off like an inch below the main body (where the cap sits) and and flush or maybe half an inch above the flange where the distributor hold down rests. Weld them together. Have the shaft cut to length and a "bevel" that matches the original shape of the factory end on the shorter shaft. Would this now clear the wiper motor? "Maybe", there is a "marine cap" where the wires come out the side and not the top?

 

[Mineallmine]

So, last night I went out to wet sand and polish the new paint to see if I could "blend" my paint repairs to look a little cleaner.

I must say, I am very impressed with the results. Other than a very slight darker spot on the wheel well just in front of the rear tire I can no longer tell where I touched up the paint unless I get really close and even then it is difficult. The pillars came out really nice too. If you didn't know I repainted you wouldn't be able to tell. Super happy with the result.

I polished the hood while I was at it as well as most of the rear drivers passenger quarter. Now I have to do the rest of the car to make it look as good. Car is starting to look as good as when I first pulled it out again. A few more minor details to take care of and it'll be ready to move on to it's new owner. Don't want to list it until I'm happy with it.

 

[mopowers]

So, last night I went out to wet sand and polish the new paint to see if I could "blend" my paint repairs to look a little cleaner.

I must say, I am very impressed with the results. Other than a very slight darker spot on the wheel well just in front of the rear tire I can no longer tell where I touched up the paint unless I get really close and even then it is difficult. The pillars came out really nice too. If you didn't know I repainted you wouldn't be able to tell. Super happy with the result.

I polished the hood while I was at it as well as most of the rear drivers passenger quarter. Now I have to do the rest of the car to make it look as good. Car is starting to look as good as when I first pulled it out again. A few more minor details to take care of and it'll be ready to move on to it's new owner. Don't want to list it until I'm happy with it.

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Wow, that turned out great!

 

[Dne007]

yeah, awesome!! good job!!!

 

[mygasser]

all that work and you're giving up now with just a few modern touches to 'finish' it off, you quitter you. lol.

 

[Mineallmine]

So, finally got a few hours to get at the dart yesterday. Pulled the driveshaft to replace the damaged trunnion boot. Turns out is wasn't chewed but torn. Guess buying NOS wasn't the best idea in this case. Gues it was a little brittle, though it didn't feel like it when installing. The new was WAY more flexible. I was actually able to install it without removing the pin. I read that you could get it over the pin and then squeeze it though the sleeve. It actually worked. The left-over grease definitely helped. That and my wife came out to give me an extra set of hands. Hardest part was putting all the needle bearings back in and holding it while packing it with grease and getting the cover back on. Hopefully this time it will last.

Also got the leaky exhaust gasket replaced. Almost miss the little rumble it had.

New problem though. Took it for a run and the temp guage stopped working. Testing lead me to a faulty sender. Got one coming from Rock Auto.

A couple more little things, check over the front end, and do an oil change and wash and polish and it should be ready to move on to a new owner

 

[Mineallmine]

So, as I ran out of time last fall to get the car to where I was happy with it to let it go I put it away for the winter. Usually I start it a few times over the winter to keep things moving. This year with everything going on (renovations, crazy work schedule, family health issues, having to put our second dog down after 13 good years) it was the last thing on my mind.

Yesterday it was a beautiful day, so I decided to pull the cover and see if she would fire up. Fired up like I just parked it. Took a few seconds to pull the fuel back from the tank like it always did when it sits but started and ran like a champ. Nice smooth idle and still sounds great as ever.

Now the plan is to install the new mirror I bought, a new antennae, a new 3 cored aluminum rad (original I had recored sucked up some dirt that was lodged in the engine somewhere even after multiple flushes. 2 core anyway.) and an oil change and polish. Then I plan to put it up for sale. Will also be taking it in to the shop to be safetied again. That way it's top notch and ready to go with no surprises. At least as far as I could possibly be aware of. Kind of sad to let it go right now as I will be without a classic driver for a while until I can get to my wifes truck or my truck or wagon, but it's the right thing to do at this point.

Hopefully someone will take it and drive it and enjoy it like it was meant to be enjoyed.

 

[Mineallmine]

Got the new aluminum rad installed today. No issues. Fit pretty nice. Ordered a new carb rebuild kit to freshen up the carb as it hasn't been done since before I owned it, so many years I would imagine. Also have a fully rebuilt spare but the kit wasn't too expensive so I figured I keep the spare for the new owner. Brought it up to temp and seems to be running a little cooler which is just what I was hoping for. Once I get the carb done and oil changed, I'll take it for a good run to be sure its all good. Next on the list its to adjust the brakes just to make sure they are set right.

Hopefully this time next week I can have it all polished up and ready to go to it's new home.

 

[Mineallmine]

Decided to freshen up the carb on the Dart yesterday. Not the best idea but glad I went at it. Pulled the carb and took it all apart to replace the accelerator pump and the gaskets and needle valve. It ran good so wasn't concerned with anything else other than a small weeping leak at the fuel bowl. What I found was disappointing. Not one flange on the carb was flat anymore. It would appear the last time it was apart someone over torqued the screws and bent more than one flange on the top of the carb. So bad when tightened up with new gaskets I could still wiggle the gasket at the front of the bowl .

Fortunately, Just before I finished the car I got lucky and came across a professionally restored/rebuilt carb from a closing carb shop on ebay (old school guy was retiring) so I jumped on it. Got it cheap because there was a small gouge in the lower plate (could be easily filed smooth as it was only on the outer edge, but that's how meticulous the guy was). Instead of filing it I just swapped my just cleaned up lower undamaged plate from my old carb to the new one and installed it. (I also didn't want to chance damaging the rubber throttle rod coupling as it was difficult to find for this carb). Runs really nice now and no leaks (with the exception of a slight leak at the accelerator pump rod when it sits after running for a bit and the fuel boils in the bowl from heat soak...stupid ethanol fuels). Other than that, I'm happy with how it's running.

Cleaned it up a bit and took it for a cruise to test it out. Only adjustment needed was a slight idle increase where I dropped it a little too much after initial install. New aluminum rad didn't disappoint either. Ran just at bottom of operating range the entire time.

Today, plan is to put it up on the ramps and change the oil and look over the front end for anything loose or not looking right. Will also grease the front end while I am at it. Should all be good as the car only has 800miles on it since I pulled it out. If time allows I will start the polishing as well as it is supposed to be nice today. Not too hot either.

 

[Mineallmine]

Got the oil change done yesterday. Installed a WIX filter and used Amsoil Z-Rod oil. Also did the front end inspection. Everything still looks good. Then I got brave and got the polisher out and went over the car with Meguiar's Ultimate compound. Car is looking nice. Still have to go over it with the polish next. Even found the time to install the new antennae (old one broke when trying to remove the mast to put the cover on it in the fall) and mirror (replace the old one that had a couple imperfections I didn't like). Now onto the interior to get the new old radio installed and detail the interior and it should be ready to move on. Hope to be able to get it posted for sale by the end of the week if all goes well.

 

[barbee6043]

Got the oil change done yesterday. Installed a WIX filter and used Amsoil Z-Rod oil. Also did the front end inspection. Everything still looks good. Then I got brave and got the polisher out and went over the car with Meguiar's Ultimate compound. Car is looking nice. Still have to go over it with the polish next. Even found the time to install the new antennae (old one broke when trying to remove the mast to put the cover on it in the fall) and mirror (replace the old one that had a couple imperfections I didn't like). Now onto the interior to get the new old radio installed and detail the interior and it should be ready to move on. Hope to be able to get it posted for sale by the end of the week if all goes well.

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Sweet Mopar!!

 

[Mineallmine]

Hit a minor setback today. Went at the dart yesterday and got the replacement radio installed and it is working nice. Got the inside all cleaned up. Just need to do the glass. Looks really nice inside again. Then the issues. Decided to check out the brakes and front end to be sure everything is in top notch shape before selling it (always do. Never like seller surprises). Had a safety scheduled for next week as well. Guess I'll be postponing that. Pulled the wheel and checked the brakes and it all looks just as good as when it was all replaced. Then I decided to check the suspension and steering. Figured it should be all good as it only has 800+ miles on it all. Everything in the suspension was replaced. Ball joints, check, bushings, all check, tie rods, check. Idler arm, no check. Discovered when I pull side to side on the tire the idler arm moves up and down a bit. Checked and it appears tight.

Ok, so I guess I got a crappy one. Called around to order one and no one has a listing on it any more. Even gave the shops the MOOG and Centric part numbers and no go. Had to order one on line from the US.

Hopefully it gets here quick. Don't want to list it with a known defect. I don't like selling cars like that, even if I tell the buyer it's on the way. As soon as it shows up the car is ready to hit the market. Unfortunately I'm missing the best time to sell it. If it doesn't get here soon it will have to wait until the second or third week of June to be ready.

So the wait begins...

 

[Mineallmine]

Well, looks like I will be without a Mopar for a little while. Just listed the Dart for sale last night and it sold first thing this morning. I will be delivering it to him on Saturday. Only thing I have to do is install the new idler arm that fortunately came in this morning.

I will still be lurking as I love seeing the progress on all of the builds and it gives me motivation and ideas for my other builds. Going to be odd not having a classic to cruise around in again, but hopefully it won't take long to get my wife's truck built.

I want to thank everybody once again for all of the support and help during my build. Hopefully I can still return the favor.