lol....hey, why not?
1964 Dart Grüne Hölle Road Course/Track Day/AutoX Project
- Thread starter slant six
- Start date
-
1/26/25:
Items accomplished today:
Oil pump / motor mount clearance:
Repaint on cruddy areas:
Other small bits installed, oil filter, dist, motor mounts etc.
This sandblasting and painting fixture has sure come in handy. Glad I made it.
Bell housing cleaning and repainting as well as head re assembly to come!
Items accomplished today:
- passenger side motor mount with cutout for adjustable pressure regulator installed
- finished respraying and touching up rusty or flaky areas on the block
- installed and timed distributor for "first fire"
- detailed some more bolts (there are always bolts to detail)
Oil pump / motor mount clearance:
Repaint on cruddy areas:
Other small bits installed, oil filter, dist, motor mounts etc.
This sandblasting and painting fixture has sure come in handy. Glad I made it.
Bell housing cleaning and repainting as well as head re assembly to come!
I really like that adjustable pressure regulator. Where can I get one? Real nice work on the mount, too. Looks like it came that way.
440 Source has them.
I supose you coild make one as well with a lathe. Sealing might require some engineering.
But shhh. Dont let them know some of the b/rb/ hemi stuff fits the slant 6. It will be our secret!
The slants share several mutual parts with the big block. I've always thought that was kinda cool.
2/3/25:
I was able to pick up the head at the machine shop on Friday after work.
They touched up all of the valve faces and seats to make sure that the mating surfaces were proper and good.
When I received the head back at the shop, I spent Friday evening remeasuring and setting installed heights and pressures - some of the seat and face work changed the measurements by 0.010".
I was able to get the new springs installed and with the supplied assortment of shims I got the heights and pressures reasonably close to one another.
Next up was some bell housing cleaning; washed it up real good in the parts washer, and then took it to the blast cabinet.
It was paint on top of old flaky paint, and it was coming off, so I figured I would spend some time getting it nice before this install.
Red on old black paint.
Over-spray on the inside drives me nuts.
All clean and ready for paint, back from the abrasive cabinet vacation.
Bolts, bolts, there are always bolts to clean and paint too.
In the "paint booth"
Done, unmasked ready for paint to cure and waiting with other parts to be reassembled.
A little clean up and repaint on the head as well.
I hope to have the head on there for next week and before I reinstall it back in the car, I am going to refit my EFI manifold and make some marks for cuts in the Header I bought a year or 2 ago to get the EFI webers moving along.
I was able to pick up the head at the machine shop on Friday after work.
They touched up all of the valve faces and seats to make sure that the mating surfaces were proper and good.
When I received the head back at the shop, I spent Friday evening remeasuring and setting installed heights and pressures - some of the seat and face work changed the measurements by 0.010".
I was able to get the new springs installed and with the supplied assortment of shims I got the heights and pressures reasonably close to one another.
Next up was some bell housing cleaning; washed it up real good in the parts washer, and then took it to the blast cabinet.
It was paint on top of old flaky paint, and it was coming off, so I figured I would spend some time getting it nice before this install.
Red on old black paint.
Over-spray on the inside drives me nuts.
All clean and ready for paint, back from the abrasive cabinet vacation.
Bolts, bolts, there are always bolts to clean and paint too.
In the "paint booth"
Done, unmasked ready for paint to cure and waiting with other parts to be reassembled.
A little clean up and repaint on the head as well.
I hope to have the head on there for next week and before I reinstall it back in the car, I am going to refit my EFI manifold and make some marks for cuts in the Header I bought a year or 2 ago to get the EFI webers moving along.
Lookin good, bud! Speedin right along!
2/9/25:
Some progress has been made.
Last Week, I was able to do some cutting, grinding and welding on my semi-custom valve cover. Still quite a bit of work there to get things all done.
Gasket all coppered up ready for an install:
Lifters installed:
Head installed and Torqued to Spec:
The last time I had the engine together I was unhappy with the oil flow to the rockers and top of the engine.
The only thing I changed on the last iteration in 2023 was the head bolts(studs).
On the other performance engines with the ARP Head studs I have built ('69 Dart)
and (the Ruster)
I always turned or had a machine shop turn for me one of the studs down to the diameter of the stock head bolt so that the oil passage to the rockers would not be restricted around the ARP Stud, which is noticeably girthierer than a stock head bolt.
I did not do that last time but I did this time, so hopefully I will be happier with the results.
So except for the the Intake, Headers, some hoses and other bolt ons, the engine is complete, I set the Timing and Cold lash so that after priming the oil pump with no spark plugs and compression, I should be able to Put fuel to the carb and Fire it right up.
One other thing that I did was begin to find out where and how much of the # 6 header tube I need to cut to use the Weber DCOE style EFI setup. I need to completely cut and then add some radiused length of tubing for the # 6 tube for my manifolds to work together as the intake also hits the #5 intake runner as I have removed half the diameter of the #6 tube already. No amount of just dinging it would work here, I would have closed up half of the tube or more.
Some progress has been made.
Last Week, I was able to do some cutting, grinding and welding on my semi-custom valve cover. Still quite a bit of work there to get things all done.
Gasket all coppered up ready for an install:
Lifters installed:
Head installed and Torqued to Spec:
The last time I had the engine together I was unhappy with the oil flow to the rockers and top of the engine.
The only thing I changed on the last iteration in 2023 was the head bolts(studs).
On the other performance engines with the ARP Head studs I have built ('69 Dart)
and (the Ruster)
I always turned or had a machine shop turn for me one of the studs down to the diameter of the stock head bolt so that the oil passage to the rockers would not be restricted around the ARP Stud, which is noticeably girthierer than a stock head bolt.
I did not do that last time but I did this time, so hopefully I will be happier with the results.
So except for the the Intake, Headers, some hoses and other bolt ons, the engine is complete, I set the Timing and Cold lash so that after priming the oil pump with no spark plugs and compression, I should be able to Put fuel to the carb and Fire it right up.
One other thing that I did was begin to find out where and how much of the # 6 header tube I need to cut to use the Weber DCOE style EFI setup. I need to completely cut and then add some radiused length of tubing for the # 6 tube for my manifolds to work together as the intake also hits the #5 intake runner as I have removed half the diameter of the #6 tube already. No amount of just dinging it would work here, I would have closed up half of the tube or more.
Nice progress!
hcallaway
Well-Known Member
1971 Dodge Gets A Slant Six - Engine Power S2, E3POWERNATION • 1.9M views18:42
Wow your slant six sounds incredible. You would’ve taken my money if I had to guess what was under the hood. I have always appreciated the slant six. Now I understand why many people don’t go to a small block instead of staying with the slant six. Again many thanks for the education.
Wow your slant six sounds incredible. You would’ve taken my money if I had to guess what was under the hood. I have always appreciated the slant six. Now I understand why many people don’t go to a small block instead of staying with the slant six. Again many thanks for the education.
Gee Weber EFI and tube exhaust makes for some close buddies OR a new fangled way to Preheat the intake charge 
Yes and any time you have any type DCOE carbs / intakes on an inline without an airbox the intake air will be hot.Gee Weber EFI and tube exhaust makes for some close buddies OR a new fangled way to Preheat the intake charge
2/16/25:
Some Progress this weekend:
I got the engine moved out of the build room and into the car:
Everything needs wired, filled with fluids, etc, then I will turn it over a bunch with no spark plugs to establish oil pressure, then I will put the plugs in and the fuel to the carb and try to fire it off.
In other news, I made some cuts to the #6 tube on my extra set of new headers: I plan on Ordering some 14 gauge mandrel bends for fabbing things back up with clearance for the Weber style manifolds.
I also made quite a bit of progress on my valve cover; got everything welded, now just a lot of grinding and metal finishing to do. I was working on some of that today, then the power went out at the shop, and had afternoon plans with the family so it was a good time to call it quits.
Some Progress this weekend:
I got the engine moved out of the build room and into the car:
Everything needs wired, filled with fluids, etc, then I will turn it over a bunch with no spark plugs to establish oil pressure, then I will put the plugs in and the fuel to the carb and try to fire it off.
In other news, I made some cuts to the #6 tube on my extra set of new headers: I plan on Ordering some 14 gauge mandrel bends for fabbing things back up with clearance for the Weber style manifolds.
I also made quite a bit of progress on my valve cover; got everything welded, now just a lot of grinding and metal finishing to do. I was working on some of that today, then the power went out at the shop, and had afternoon plans with the family so it was a good time to call it quits.
Valve cover looks cool! Wanna do another one? LMAO
mygasser
Well-Known Member
i take it now you've removed that section of header you'll be rerouting it lower to clear the intake rather than the notch cut out before? much better idea i reckon 
neil.
neil.
Yes that is the Idea, we will see how it turns outi take it now you've removed that section of header you'll be rerouting it lower to clear the intake rather than the notch cut out before? much better idea i reckon
neil.
bjkadron
Well-Known Member
Wow! I found this on youtube the other day but then I found this whole thread and I'm even more excited about seeing this one get back on the road! Such a cool car.
Thanks, I am glad the trials and tribulations of my car here have some meaning for you.
For sure, it will take a while but going back to page 1 of this thread if you have time will reveal a lot of information. I bought this car in late august 2015, So it will be coming up on 10 years of collecting parts and work.
Ah..... maybe but I usually never have time for other people's projects.
Thanks, I hope it will be up to my standards when it is done. Lots of grinding and metal finishing to do yet.
I understand. I rarely have motivation for my own stuff. lol
bjkadron
Well-Known Member
Yeah I had just finished reading the whole thing when I commented haha.
Great, thanks for following along. I wish I had the time to fully read everybody’s build threads.
2/19/25:
I got a few spare hours to hit the shop and get some things done the other day before the arctic blast rolled in!
Pressure plate and clutch is installed with new through the Flywheel fasteners (thanks Lou!) - no Fear Of thread pullout now on the aluminum.
I went to the hardware store last light and bought locking 5/16"-18 Grade 8 Flange nuts for the other side. - They now need installed:
I did get the bell housing installed as well.
I hope to get back to the shop again this weekend for some transmission Install, oil pump priming, etc.
I got a few spare hours to hit the shop and get some things done the other day before the arctic blast rolled in!
Pressure plate and clutch is installed with new through the Flywheel fasteners (thanks Lou!) - no Fear Of thread pullout now on the aluminum.
I went to the hardware store last light and bought locking 5/16"-18 Grade 8 Flange nuts for the other side. - They now need installed:
I did get the bell housing installed as well.
I hope to get back to the shop again this weekend for some transmission Install, oil pump priming, etc.
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