Reilly Motorsports Tublar Adjustable uppers with no bushings. Just heim Joints.
I am not sure if those are availible any longer from RMS.
1964 Dart Grüne Hölle Road Course/Track Day/AutoX Project
- Thread starter slant six
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I am not sure if those are availible any longer from RMS.
I built a 4.6 stroker Jeep engine based on the 4.0 block and older AMC 258 crank. When you deviate from stock, you run into issues. I found this out with my build. Some custom stuff just doesn't work right the first time. Gotta identify the issue before you can make corrections. Just know, the pioneering efforts you're makng will become "stickies" on the sight later. Awesome work.
Cool Stuff. Thanks for the kind words.
I have an XJ, it is all stock and I don't care to mess with it much, as I prefer to tinker with my old mopars.
It looks like you have a maybe a ZJ there? The under hood stuff looks much different than mine.
12/29/24:
I completed a bunch of metalwork today.
The pan got its little repairs:
Reinstalled the metal windage screen and red loctited the small button head screws that keep it in place.
Fingers crossed as I put ~15,000 Miles on this first configuration of the pan and the screws were still tight and loctited in place when I removed them a few weeks ago for cleaning etc.
Fresh Paint looks good in pictures.
I placed some cut lines on the VC for future surgery and #6 cylinder bump.
I have probably spent 10 hours on this little part so far. It sure does not look like much, but a lot of little cuts, little hits of the MIG, grinding, finishing, and dolly work take time to complete. I want the finished product to look like it was factory-made that way.
I can soon clean up the rear main seal retainer on the engine and install the oil pan, oil pump, and distributor.
I completed a bunch of metalwork today.
The pan got its little repairs:
Reinstalled the metal windage screen and red loctited the small button head screws that keep it in place.
Fingers crossed as I put ~15,000 Miles on this first configuration of the pan and the screws were still tight and loctited in place when I removed them a few weeks ago for cleaning etc.
Fresh Paint looks good in pictures.
I placed some cut lines on the VC for future surgery and #6 cylinder bump.
I have probably spent 10 hours on this little part so far. It sure does not look like much, but a lot of little cuts, little hits of the MIG, grinding, finishing, and dolly work take time to complete. I want the finished product to look like it was factory-made that way.
I can soon clean up the rear main seal retainer on the engine and install the oil pan, oil pump, and distributor.
Yes, '95 Grand Cherokee. It's my daily (and only) driver.
1/20/25
I have been slowly working on things here.
I decided after the Lobe failure, to examine the Spring pressures. This is an old Jeffery Head, and I never checked the spring pressures. Ken at OCG says to try to get ~120# Seat Pressure at the installed height and 250# open for this cam.
The Seat Pressures were good, but the open pressure was high, so i ordered a new set of PAC Catalog MoPar springs and they will knock down the open pressures.
While I Had the head apart, measured installed heights and checked all of the new springs at their installed and open heights. This head had no Shims anywhere under any of the springs. I found out that It has nice Ferrea Chevy Valves @ ~1.8 and 1.5 with 11/32" Stems. There are no seals on the exahsuts, Just on the intakes.
I ordered some 0.015" and 0.020" valve spring shims to more closley match the spring pressures and Installed heights.
At the same time I cleaned up all the gunk on the backside of the intake valves and observed the seats - It looks like 2 Exhaust valves have practically no seat area on them... so Off to the machine shop it goes tomorrow, for some seat touch up work.
I wanted to avoid heading to the machine shop, but it is not so this time.
I also Am going to change out the oil pump. I had a nice, light Aluminum rebuilt stock unit in there, but with my extra oil pump gear sprayer, I was never happy with the Oil pressure.
This replacement unit needed some massaging in the casting, which I do on all of my oil pumps now when I get into a slant 6 build.
Head on the bench, with cruddy Intakes.
Dirty Valve Right,
Cleaned up Valve Left.
I am no trained expert, but this seat contact width seems too small to me.
This pump casting could use some massaging in certain areas.
Excess Flash:
Smoother and some radiused flow around the bends.
With lots of snow shoveling, plowing, sled riding as well as trips to the mountains, progress has slowed down a bit on this project.
We have not had winter for 4-5 years so i am thoroughly enjoying this cold and Snowy January 2025!
It also is projected to be -10° F this week, so I probably wont get back to working on finishing the valve cover until the temperatures go up again.
Fortunately, my engine assembly area has heat so I can work on getting the oil pump painted, installed and as well as the oil pan set on the engine this week while the head goes back to the Machine shop.
I have been slowly working on things here.
I decided after the Lobe failure, to examine the Spring pressures. This is an old Jeffery Head, and I never checked the spring pressures. Ken at OCG says to try to get ~120# Seat Pressure at the installed height and 250# open for this cam.
The Seat Pressures were good, but the open pressure was high, so i ordered a new set of PAC Catalog MoPar springs and they will knock down the open pressures.
While I Had the head apart, measured installed heights and checked all of the new springs at their installed and open heights. This head had no Shims anywhere under any of the springs. I found out that It has nice Ferrea Chevy Valves @ ~1.8 and 1.5 with 11/32" Stems. There are no seals on the exahsuts, Just on the intakes.
I ordered some 0.015" and 0.020" valve spring shims to more closley match the spring pressures and Installed heights.
At the same time I cleaned up all the gunk on the backside of the intake valves and observed the seats - It looks like 2 Exhaust valves have practically no seat area on them... so Off to the machine shop it goes tomorrow, for some seat touch up work.
I wanted to avoid heading to the machine shop, but it is not so this time.
I also Am going to change out the oil pump. I had a nice, light Aluminum rebuilt stock unit in there, but with my extra oil pump gear sprayer, I was never happy with the Oil pressure.
This replacement unit needed some massaging in the casting, which I do on all of my oil pumps now when I get into a slant 6 build.
Head on the bench, with cruddy Intakes.
Dirty Valve Right,
Cleaned up Valve Left.
I am no trained expert, but this seat contact width seems too small to me.
This pump casting could use some massaging in certain areas.
Excess Flash:
Smoother and some radiused flow around the bends.
With lots of snow shoveling, plowing, sled riding as well as trips to the mountains, progress has slowed down a bit on this project.
We have not had winter for 4-5 years so i am thoroughly enjoying this cold and Snowy January 2025!
It also is projected to be -10° F this week, so I probably wont get back to working on finishing the valve cover until the temperatures go up again.
Fortunately, my engine assembly area has heat so I can work on getting the oil pump painted, installed and as well as the oil pan set on the engine this week while the head goes back to the Machine shop.
The valve face on the valve looks fine. It's the width of the seat in the head that's critical. What does it look like? You COULD have the intakes back cut and that would help with flow somewhat. Maybe a 25 or 30 degree back cut. I'm diggin that oil pan.
abdywgn
dismantler
Thanks for the tips on cleaning up the oil pump! Areas you don't think about and looks like some off that flashing could have caused problems later on.
It's the narrow contact pattern on the valve that I am worried about - It seems that both the seat and valve look good, with correct width and margins (not sure if that is the correct term?) but the angles somehow do not match, creating a thin contact patch.
For Sure, there is not a performance 3 angle valve Job on the intakes, but that will have to be for a later time.
It was a Snowy mess/ winter wonderland all at the same time this morning. There was a Truck 2000' down the road from my house flipped up onto on it's drivers door.
I called 911 and they said there was someone on the way to help.
It did not seem to happen recently as there was another neighbor on the scene and the truck seemed cold and the lights were off.
I dropped the Head off at the Machine shop today after work, instead of in the morning due to Road conditions.
What a difference 8 hours and some sun and Salt can make for the road conditions. The Snow stopping helped too.
I am going to get all of the seats and valves checked over while I had it this far apart.
Yeah No Problem,
I believe this is an old tip "Doctor Dodge" Doug Dutra did with his pumps as well, I cannot claim originality on this idea.
That horrible unfinished area of the casting would have run fine, I don't believe any of the flash was loose enough to be dislodged, but it makes me all warm and fuzzy inside to have those passages smoothed.
Does it Help? I Dunno - I have no way to A/B test this with an unported vs ported slant 6 oil pump.
"Engine Masters Slant 6 Edition" anyone?
Some years of various engines actually used mismatched valve angles. 45 on the seat and 46 on the valves.....or vice versa. OR it could just be a bad valve job. lol Generally though, IF the contact area isn't in the center of the valve face, it's more preferred to be on the "stem side" of the valve face like yours, as this certainly assures the valves don't sink to achieve a seat.
Very Nice. Not too many here know of such things.
Yep, For sure. I drove it in 2012 on my honeymoon.
Bought 4 laps, Forced off / to wait after 2 Laps due to I think a Yugo looking thing in the wall and then a few chicanes later A motorbike off.
Temporary Track Closure for clean up and safety crews.
2 laps Still remain on my gate card, but we decided to go to the Romantic Rhine a valley and stop at some clock shops and Castles before heading back to Frankfurt am Main. There's a lot to do when you only have 3 days in Germany.
We had a 2012 Nissan Qashqai (euro spec Nissan Rogue) with a turbo diesel and a 6 speed. I could only go ~125 MPH downhill in 6th on the Autobahn and It survived 2 laps around the Nordschliefe for the touristenfahrten.
I would love to take this car in the thread there, but I will hafta settle for Pittrace, Nelson Ledges, CMP, or Summit Point for now.
Thanks!
I did one lap and my son did three with an instructor in a prepared M2 that Apex rents for the track.
My son says we should name mine "Die Grüne Hölle Barrakuda". Still putting it together. 600hp EFI 440. 6 speed. 3.91 gears with a locker. Dr Diff 13" front brakes, 11.7" rear both with Baer rotors. 1.12" torsion bars. 14:1 power steering. Set up for 285 on front and up to a 355 in the rear. Dark Green Metallic of course.
Nice. Similar to mine in a few ways. Except mine is less nose heavy and half the power. Same brakes and gear out back. Weight distrubuition on my car is damn near 50% f to r.
I suppose I couuld futz with tire sizes a bit more but 245's are really all it needs. Can hang with 90's porsche 911's on road rally's.
I have dropped about 150 pounds off the front, maybe 50 heavier than a /6? Once the car is on the road I’ll do corner weights and see where it is.
Fantastic work. Yep, I would be interested to see where it is with those weights.
1/21/25:
Last Night I got the Oil Pump re-assembled.
I am going to try out an adjustable Oil Pressure Regulator from 440 Source.
Beats having to futz with the pipe plug and sometimes removing the passenger Side Engine Mount to swap Springs, add shims etc.
All assembled and ready for Paint:
First Coat Applied last night:
Machine Shop said that my head with touched up seats should be ready by the end of the week too!
Last Night I got the Oil Pump re-assembled.
I am going to try out an adjustable Oil Pressure Regulator from 440 Source.
Beats having to futz with the pipe plug and sometimes removing the passenger Side Engine Mount to swap Springs, add shims etc.
All assembled and ready for Paint:
First Coat Applied last night:
Machine Shop said that my head with touched up seats should be ready by the end of the week too!
1/25/25:
I got to the Shop today and accomplished a few things:
Oil Pump was done and paint was dry..
Time to install it:
Found out upon installation that there would be no room to make any pressure adjustments.
Did a little surgery and cutting on my mark:
And some paint to cover up the scars:
Got the Pan install complete as well.
Hopefully I can get the head setup next week with touched up seats, valves, new springs, setting valve spring installed heights and pressures. Also a bit more of the block touch-up needs completed, and with possibly warmer temperatures above freezing, I can get back to working on that custom valve cover too.
I got to the Shop today and accomplished a few things:
- installed the oil pump
- realized that the adjustable oil pressure regulator hits the motor mount
- modified the passenger motor mount bracket for oil pressure regulator clearance
- installed and sealed the oil pan
- did a bit of touch up painting on the engine block after assembly of parts
Oil Pump was done and paint was dry..
Time to install it:
Found out upon installation that there would be no room to make any pressure adjustments.
Did a little surgery and cutting on my mark:
And some paint to cover up the scars:
Got the Pan install complete as well.
Hopefully I can get the head setup next week with touched up seats, valves, new springs, setting valve spring installed heights and pressures. Also a bit more of the block touch-up needs completed, and with possibly warmer temperatures above freezing, I can get back to working on that custom valve cover too.
Looks good, bud! Will this be the first time you've used that oil squirter on the cam gear?
Could you actually tell there was a pressure loss?
Was that with a standard volume pump?
Yep, A ported block in the transitions to the main gallery as well as a ported OE Aluminum casting Pump that I serviced 2 years ago. Standpipe Valve removed for more flow. With all of the flow improvements I could have lowered pressure there too. No way to know for sure with out my own episode of "Slant Six Engine Masters"
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