1964 dart vibrations

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Slantsix64

Slantsix64

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i have a 1964 dart i have changed the drive shaft rear end and i still get vibrations when im going 45-50 i put some air shocks to raise it up and it does help well my main questions is can it be a problem in the transmisson its self let me know and yes iit still have the ball and trunion 64 dart two door 225 904 auto push button
 
When you say you replaced the drive shaft rear end I'll assume the rear universal joint was replaced. Did you have the ball and trunnion rebuilt? They last a long time, but not forever. Was the drive shaft balanced by a driveline shop? I'd start with this. They may say the B&T is sloppy and either needs to be rebuilt or replaced with a Cardan cross joint and spline coupler.
 
thanks for the reply yes all tires are balanced okay ill try that do you think that might be the problem so it wont be with the tranny it self
 
yes i have changed the u joint when i swapped everything i have not gotten the drive shaft balanced it has no dings or dents at all but then you never know i have swaped the drive shaft twice and both times it rattles were the u joint and drive shaft connect
 
Bought a cuda w/similar problem drum balance weights made wheels set not flush knocked the weights off problem solved
 
If it happens during a light cruise or deceleration, it's a worn B&T joint. If you need one, I've got a good driveshaft listed on here.
 
I stopped readin at air shocks.
 
Man RRR! air shocks are adjustable.
stick with the driveshaft area 1st

fix 1 thing at a time to isolate the problem.
the air shock comment means that they are a temporary fix & a bad idea for a mopar a body car-- they have been known to rip out the upper shock mount area causing much more grief.

a real simple solution is do not drive at those speeds! (Ha)


Lawrence
 
Had similar symptoms from my '64 Valiant. They got worse with time and turned out to be treads separating on all four tires. They were about four years old with less than 3,000 miles of easy driving.
 
VDART said:
Man RRR! air shocks are adjustable.
stick with the driveshaft area 1st

fix 1 thing at a time to isolate the problem.
the air shock comment means that they are a temporary fix & a bad idea for a mopar a body car-- they have been known to rip out the upper shock mount area causing much more grief.

a real simple solution is do not drive at those speeds! (Ha)


Lawrence
Click to expand...

I know. And really, I have nothing against them, although they are not the best method to raise a car.

What I meant was, air shocks would be the dead LAST thing I would add or adjust to try to deal with a vibration. I would diagnose the problem, fix it and worry about air shocks later.

IMO, all advice here is a moot point with the air shocks installed, because there will be no proof that they are not the problem unless they are eliminated, the problem found and repaired and then the air shocks put back on.

They "generally" don't cause vibration, but when you are trying to diagnose a vibration, it's best if they are not in the picture.

That's my opinion.
RustyRatRod Copyright 2014.
All Rights Reserved.
 
RustyRatRod said:
I know. And really, I have nothing against them, although they are not the best method to raise a car.

What I meant was, air shocks would be the dead LAST thing I would add or adjust to try to deal with a vibration. I would diagnose the problem, fix it and worry about air shocks later.

IMO, all advice here is a moot point with the air shocks installed, because there will be no proof that they are not the problem unless they are eliminated, the problem found and repaired and then the air shocks put back on.

They "generally" don't cause vibration, but when you are trying to diagnose a vibration, it's best if they are not in the picture.

That's my opinion.
RustyRatRod Copyright 2014.
All Rights Reserved.
Click to expand...


...Can't he just let the air out?
 
RustyRatRod said:
I know. And really, I have nothing against them, although they are not the best method to raise a car.

What I meant was, air shocks would be the dead LAST thing I would add or adjust to try to deal with a vibration. I would diagnose the problem, fix it and worry about air shocks later.

IMO, all advice here is a moot point with the air shocks installed, because there will be no proof that they are not the problem unless they are eliminated, the problem found and repaired and then the air shocks put back on.

They "generally" don't cause vibration, but when you are trying to diagnose a vibration, it's best if they are not in the picture.

That's my opinion.
RustyRatRod Copyright 2014.
All Rights Reserved.
Click to expand...



sorry rusty rat rod i do not have a huge bank account and my house is not paid off i am doing all the work myself learning on the way i put the air shocks to have the ball and trunion straightened out and it did help
 
its only when i am accelerating 45-50 i swapped out the shaft twice but what the hell ill try it again can you send me the link? thanks
 
whitepunkonnitro said:
...Can't he just let the air out?
Click to expand...

Sure. But what if the problem is something else? Also, I have seen air shocks that bind or don't work properly with no air. I remember on some, the deestrukshuns used to say "do not run without air" or some such. Some are designed to work as normal shocks without air and some not. That's why I just like to get them out of the picture for diagnosis purposes.

Personal preference more than anything I reckon.
 
Slantsix64 said:
sorry rusty rat rod i do not have a huge bank account and my house is not paid off i am doing all the work myself learning on the way i put the air shocks to have the ball and trunion straightened out and it did help
Click to expand...

What's that got to do with the price of tea in China? I gave you a suggestion. Hydraulic shocks are cheap cheap. I don't know what in the world everything else you brought into it has to do with anything, but ok.
 
No actual experience, but I would think a worn ball & trunion U-joint could be diagnosed by a clunk as you shift from R to D (experienced that in 69 Dart w/ totally worn U-joint), and also by grabbing with both hands and feeling for play (up on ramps, tranny in N, wheels chocked).

Tire vibrations are constant. If you put in N and coast and still vibrates, it probably isn't the tires or suspension. The fact it only occurs when accelerating suggests the engine & drive-train. Could be an erratic spark miss, which happens more often under WOT & low speed. Also, look at the motor mounts.
 
id bet its the front CV or ball and trunion joint. Prob swapped with another bad one. My 64 sport fury had the same issue. and it wont clunk like a u joint will when bad. just a little play is all it needs to vibrate. And raising the rear with air shocks will change the angle on the drive shaft and will more then likely change the vibration.
 
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