65_Dart_GT
Well-Known Member
Thanks Ulf. I will be purchasing a package once i have verified the thread which I belive to be 8-32 I will absolutely verify once I purchase a couple from the local hardware store to verify the thread. Stay tuned
1965 Dodge Dart Charger
- Thread starter 65dartcharger
- Start date
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Thanks Ulf. I will be purchasing a package once i have verified the thread which I belive to be 8-32 I will absolutely verify once I purchase a couple from the local hardware store to verify the thread. Stay tuned
Its coming along great! Keep it up!!
The postman arrived today with a package from Canada. Inside was a NOS weatherstrip for roof rail. So now I just wonder when the right side roof rail weatherstrip from South Carolina will show up. There is a difference between NOS and repop. The repop have the same figure all the way around but the NOS one has another shape from the quarter window and all the way down.
The local paint shop was able to get me the right paint for the upper recessed area on the instrument panel. The paint was applyed and tomorrow will the gloss clear coat be added. Looking forward to assemble the instrument panel.
The local paint shop was able to get me the right paint for the upper recessed area on the instrument panel. The paint was applyed and tomorrow will the gloss clear coat be added. Looking forward to assemble the instrument panel.
chryslerfat
Well-Known Member
The top of the dash was not gloss. It was a dull finish.
slantsixdan
=..=
Chryslerfat's right—the top of the dash is a suede-finish surface, definitely not glossy, and even if it were glossy a clear coat would not be correct 1965 procedure.
Chryslerfat and Dan! You are right! They mixed the Dark gold paint for me Ditzler #22464 which is a suede finish color. So it's not glossy, my school english got me! :banghead:
However the gold and this dark gold painted inside the car is both metallic paint. After checking the paint suppliers for almost a year I found out that metallic paint without clearcoat is not legal here in Sweden due to enviroment laws.
So the gold and the dark gold has a very dull clearcoat on top for protection. That's the best I can get!
But it hurts to say it's not assembly line correct! But it's the only step from that procedure.
However the gold and this dark gold painted inside the car is both metallic paint. After checking the paint suppliers for almost a year I found out that metallic paint without clearcoat is not legal here in Sweden due to enviroment laws.
So the gold and the dark gold has a very dull clearcoat on top for protection. That's the best I can get!
But it hurts to say it's not assembly line correct! But it's the only step from that procedure.
65_Dart_GT
Well-Known Member
Ulf, I have verified the machine screw to be a 10-24 x 3/4" length.
I have 25 pcs on order and will have them by next week. I will be using half of them, if you need I can send you what you need (12 pcs)? By the way they are black and have the right head as well.
Rog!That would be awesome. Then I can add the ornaments!
This morning I put the clearcoaton the upper recessed area. When I got back home I found it just the way I wanted it. But sad that I could not follow the paint process the way it was!
Now the fun with assembling the dash has started.
The NOS brake tee showed up today. Hopefully some good cleaning will make it correct again!
Are the instrument cluster and heater control bezels NOS or did you send them out to get refinished? If they were sent out and refinished, do you have the paint number for the grayish/silver color and do you know if it matches the original color? The reason I ask is I have a NOS instrument cluster (bezel and gauges) for my convertible and have tried to match the grey/silver color to finish my heater control, glove box and end bezels without much luck.
Don! I had them redone at Crometech USA. They did an excellent job. I can call them and ask what paint they used. BTW, I have an extra bezel for the heater/fan.
I checked out all my Darts and there seems to be two different styles of door locks! The older style has a concave center area will the newer Darts has kind of a flat center area. My convertible has concave door locks while my hardtop had flat door locks. The red wagon has concave ones while the White and blue wagon has flat center door locks. I will go with the flat center door locks.
Does anyone know when they changes style?
The instrument panel is coming along well. Now the only thing left is to add the fabrics that cover the speaker and add the speaker then it's all done.
On the backside of the instrument cluster there should be a condensor or a voltage limiter. Is this the correct style for 65 Dart? I found this voltage this voltage limiter on Ebay. The partnumber is correct but I can't figure out how it should mount to the housing!!
Does anyone know when they changes style?
The instrument panel is coming along well. Now the only thing left is to add the fabrics that cover the speaker and add the speaker then it's all done.
On the backside of the instrument cluster there should be a condensor or a voltage limiter. Is this the correct style for 65 Dart? I found this voltage this voltage limiter on Ebay. The partnumber is correct but I can't figure out how it should mount to the housing!!
slantsixdan
=..=
Flat-face locks were early style; concave-face locks were definitely offered as service replacements and may have been used in later vehicle production as well, though my '65s' original locks were all the flat-face type. No part number changes to rely on, unfortunately; flat ones and concave ones (with the whole variety of different key head shapes) all came under the same part numbers. :-(
Condenser on the back of the IP is correct.
The instrument cluster voltage regulator you bought is not applicable to your '65, which has the regulator built into the engine temperature gauge.
Condenser on the back of the IP is correct.
The instrument cluster voltage regulator you bought is not applicable to your '65, which has the regulator built into the engine temperature gauge.
On my NOS instrument cluster the instrument voltage regulator is built into the gas gauge.
slantsixdan
=..=
Dangit...you're spozeda read what I meant, not what I wrote! 
Dan & Don! The conclusion of this is that I just need to find the right condensor since I have a built in voltage limiter?
slantsixdan
=..=
Yes. This is a radio noise suppression condenser to avoid a popping sound in the radio caused by the opening of the instrument voltage regulator contact points (it also helps prolong the life of the contact points).
Thanks Dan! I will see if I can find one of those condenser. Do you have any partnumber for it?
I invested in some linen material for the front speaker. USD 1.40 was ok. I mounted it as they did and it turned out just as I wanted it.
After goind through the instrument panel a couple of times my wife helped me to put it in Place. Now it is just to put all the wires where they belong!!:banghead:
I have been searching theinternet for correct exhaust clamps but never found any. These are the two styles that I have. Does anyone out there know how they looked?
Martythetrimmer
Well-Known Member
looking good Ulf....once a car has a dash with instruments back in it, it starts to come to life...can't wait to see the engine bay finished with the NOS battery in place!
Marty
Marty
chryslerfat
Well-Known Member
It would be easier to bolt the dash pad on while the dash is out of the car. Not sure if you plan on taking it back out for the pad install.
slantsixdan
=..=
I'm not finding that condenser (capacitor) in the factory parts books. If you look on the end of its can (opposite end from the wire exit) you may find a part number stamped on it.
So true Dan! I got this pictureof the condensor and the partnumber. It has the same vendor number as the condensor in the distributor #648. Part# is 2291599.
Chryslerfat! You are right. The reason for adding this now is that all the wires and connections needs to be added so I think this is the next best option. But you are for sure right on that point!
With great help of my friends Johan and Joakim we were able to get the engine/tranny in place. Took only 1,5 hours! Now I can start to add all the different cables, wires and connections.
I also added the tejp that covers the holes from the inside of the inner fender. The reason is for protection the engine bay getting splashes of undercoating during that process.
66340SEDAN
FABO Member #3649
Looks great Ulf 
rayer:
rayer:
gtmopar
Phuckin A!
Starting to look like a car again! Going to be pretty
Thanks Keith and gtmopar for your nice comments!
After searching for hours today I was able to dig out two more of these small floor plugs. I will check tomorrow cause I know that someone else is needing these too!
After searching for hours today I was able to dig out two more of these small floor plugs. I will check tomorrow cause I know that someone else is needing these too!
The soft NOS heater hose reqired some trimming to fit properly. The routing is the high performance routing according to the shop manual!!
Re the routing of the vacuum hose I'm not sure how they routed it. Somewhere I have seen pictures of that. I'm not sure if they used corbin clamps or what kind of clamp they used.
Any info out there?
Re the routing of the vacuum hose I'm not sure how they routed it. Somewhere I have seen pictures of that. I'm not sure if they used corbin clamps or what kind of clamp they used.
Any info out there?
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