1966 dart convertible

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Not that far along Kurt. I will however run them out in the next day or so and mick them up! I was 5/8" shy. I used 3/4" plywood and cut spacers.
How's Michigan?? Better hurry, winter is a coming!!
 
pyrojim said:
Not that far along Kurt. I will however run them out in the next day or so and mick them up! I was 5/8" shy. I used 3/4" plywood and cut spacers. How's Michigan?? Better hurry, winter is a coming!!
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Darn cold for me it hit 40 and I haven't seen anything near 40 degrees in years!!!!! that is not counting freezers and such:D cold weather like that belongs in freezers an nowhere near me! now I remember why I left.
why have this
View attachment !!!!snow.jpg
when I can have this!
View attachment WP_20130730_002.jpg
AND yep they are BOTH February . . . .


Ok looks like the 3 inch'rs will work for you then. if you only had to space em about 3/4 inch out. As soon as I get (home too!) a set made I'll get em to ya so you can "guinea pig" em for me:glasses7: I'll be glad when I can get my carpet in to check the other stuff I'm making out.
 
Thought I'd throw this in for fun! One of my favorite musicians. Could play anything with strings, and play it well. R.I.P. Roy Clark!!

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ilm2qeJndWo"]Roy Clark can play any genre! - YouTube[/ame]
 
New harness' from headlights to taillights, everything is hooked up/ grounded. Running a charger at 10 amps for power. Have relays installed in the headlights and convertible top. Here's what's not working. Parking lights, turn signals, stop light and when I turn on the left blinker, the horn goes off? Lol. All circuits seen to run back to the turn signal switch. So, what do you think? New t s switch? How would one test it?
Any help is appreciated.
 
Well, it's been a while, things have been going pretty well, exhaust is finished. In order to install the dual exhaust, we had to trim and fab the trans support. Turned out pretty nice.
 

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So the next issue is bleeding the brakes. Body shop guy removed/reinstalled the distribution block and I think it's wrong? I have fluid coming out of the MC, but nothing to the wheels. Here's a picture if the block the way it is.
 

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The two lines with the wraps on them are the front brakes, the two lines side by side are coming from the MC, and the lady line is the rear brakes. Anyone know the proper way? Their is an adjustable proportioning valve in line from the small reservoir and a roll control in line with the large reservoir? Help us appreciated.
 
pyrojim said:
The two lines with the wraps on them are the front brakes, the two lines side by side are coming from the MC, and the lady line is the rear brakes. Anyone know the proper way? Their is an adjustable proportioning valve in line from the small reservoir and a roll control in line with the large reservoir? Help us appreciated.
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Hi Jim, got home to take care of the wife. sorry I missed seeing you on the trip back home.
she had a broken wrist and arm. cracked ribs and bruising. now she has got a plate in her arm and wrist... any way about your brake lines.
which proportioning valve are you running? this is the single pot one
stockers have (umm thinking without looking at the original) 1 coming from the top to the master 2 going to the front lines and 1 to the rear. total of 4 ....now your gonna make me look at it to make sure... brr it's cold down here now. went down to 30's last night.....
yours might be this type just plumbed wrong.


new proportioning valve hmmmm I think has 1 for front lines from master 1 for rear lines from master 2 lines for front to brakes and 1 to rear. total of 5 . here is is the roll control I use on the plymouth
View attachment !!!!!!!!linelock11111.jpg

hmm it's on jegs site for roll control or line lock setups if you need a good picture instead of this crappy one.


sometimes others use the original distribution block (it ain't a proportioning valve just a block that distributes fluid) and plumb in an adjustable proportioning valve on the rear line. (that then goes straight from the master to adjustable proportioning valve to rear line connections by passing the distribution block entirely) and the opening to the rear lines in the distribution block is plugged. (might be the way it is on your setup.)
I'm sure there are other ways but I have not done them. roll control then goes to the front main line connection between master and distribution block.
 
Hey Kurt. Glad you made it home safely. Sorry to hear about your wife, hope everything is ok??? The way it is set up now is like you explained except the line from the roll control does go to the distribution block then to the front wheels. There is a proportioning valve (adjustable) from SSBC that was already on when I got the car. The distribution block had check valves in it I assume? I think I'm working against the check valves? I suppose I could pull the block and blow into it and figure out the flow?? I know one feed sends fluid to the two openings for the front, and one feed sends fluid to one opening for the back???
PM me your address again if you would?
Thanks.
Jim
 
pyrojim said:
Hey Kurt. Glad you made it home safely. Sorry to hear about your wife, hope everything is ok??? The way it is set up now is like you explained except the line from the roll control does go to the distribution block then to the front wheels. There is a proportioning valve (adjustable) from SSBC that was already on when I got the car. The distribution block had check valves in it I assume? I think I'm working against the check valves? I suppose I could pull the block and blow into it and figure out the flow?? I know one feed sends fluid to the two openings for the front, and one feed sends fluid to one opening for the back???
PM me your address again if you would?
Thanks.
Jim
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look on your post about the valve. I just put a flow chart drawn on the block on there. yeah got home ok. had the cold weather chasing me down to Florida the whole way. brrrrrrrrrr. house is listed (done all I'm gonna do to it) wife has a plate in her arm and wrist. surgery went good . now to keep her from using it , #$@#$ woman thinks she's okay now that she is out from the knife @#$@#$:banghead:
distribution block is straight through no check valves
View attachment !!!DSCF4809.jpg

if you using this distribution block then No lines should go to the rear brakes from it. That hole should be plugged up and the rear setup should go as far as I know.
1. master cylinder
2. proportioning (adjustable) valve
3. rear line to car

if it's plumbed in to that distribution block then one section of the master cylinder could be running your whole brake system, ie single pot.
 
well, brakes are up and running, roll control is installed, center console, check!!! Got it registered and ordered tags this morning, all that's left is install the front seats......and.....stupid left front directional is being a D#%K!!! Right directional, front and rear are fine, left rear is fine. Left front doesn't operate unless I wiggle/put a little pressure on the lever? Then it comes on. I'd like to think something is loose in the turn signal switch that can be repaired before I spend $159.00 on a new one. Question is, how do I get it out from the column? Nothing in the manual, I've searched the electrical forum (thought that would be a big topic in there). Steering wheel is off but I cant get the plastic piece out??? PITA!!!
Help is appreciated.
Jim
 
pyrojim said:
well, brakes are up and running, roll control is installed, center console, check!!! Got it registered and ordered tags this morning, all that's left is install the front seats......and.....stupid left front directional is being a D#%K!!! Right directional, front and rear are fine, left rear is fine. Left front doesn't operate unless I wiggle/put a little pressure on the lever? Then it comes on. I'd like to think something is loose in the turn signal switch that can be repaired before I spend $159.00 on a new one. Question is, how do I get it out from the column? Nothing in the manual, I've searched the electrical forum (thought that would be a big topic in there). Steering wheel is off but I cant get the plastic piece out??? PITA!!!
Help is appreciated.
Jim
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Hi Jim,, hmm I ordered one from "old parts something or other" 119.00 plus shipping search "slantsixdan" and his posts if you need to get a new one. GOOD quality part.

yup you can get it out sortof easy.
1: disconnect battery (duh! but it happens)
2: remove steering wheel and if needed the horn wire.(if ya got one!:D)
3: get camera and take a picture of the steering column AND the Connector down by the brake pedal. make sure you get a clear shot of the wiring and the way it goes into the connector. use a small (really small) screwdriver or pin punch to push into the connectors to depress the tang on the wire connector so that it clears the plastic housing connector. yeah you'll have to play with it to get them out. I use a glass repair screw driver to depress the tang. once I get the tang depressed I push it forward a little to help me clear the ledge in the plastic housing and then pull back gently.
4: tie string or wire around the removed connections securely! (that's gonna be your snake to get it back down the steering column.) it'll go back in without it but it's easier to do with the string or wire.
5: remove turn siganal lever and metal hold down plate. (remember pic's) 3 screws for plate and 1 for lever.
6: it should be almost free , check for more screws if it doesn't move easily.
6a: gently remove and help slide up wires in the column to prevent snagging the string or wire attached.
7 once it's out you can clean it and check the connectors
here is a simple disassembly site, there are others with better pic's
later model but you get the drift!
View attachment turn-signal-switch2.jpg


http://www.wwnboa.org/turnsignalswitch.htm
 
cdars looking real good that hole under the 2 heater core hoses are for the little black plugs that hold the firewall insulation from inside the car.they push thru and are kinda shapened on the engine side of the firewall
 
Thanks all. Got the turn signal switch out! Thanks Kurt, it was just being ornary! Ordered a new one. Not sure why this one was acting weird? Better just to change it!
 
Help.
Slammed the door closed (not violently) but hard enough to close it with the window rolled up and the rubber stopper (???) or whatever it is called that sits in the vent window channel split. Apparently, due to age and being a little brittle coupled with the fact that the windows aren't adjusted as well as they should be. Any one have any idea if these are repopped anywhere???
Thanks
 

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pyrojim said:
Ah, found a pic.
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PyroJim those baby's are re-poped and laysons have them (they look really badly made from the picture though) but I'm not sure about the convertible. they are different than the hardtop (wider and a slightly bit more angled.)
see if you can read the numbers on the pieces. I'll see if I can find my numbers and show the difference between hardtop and convertible.


one more iron in the fire for me.. I just can't seem to get going again after the Michigan trip but I WILL!.
I have the (left side) bottom mold already made ,gotta do the top silicone mold and filler area so I can test different urethanes that will work. I am looking for a good original right side that isn't too crusty and that cleans up well to mold up. I do have 1 of the urethanes to test after I finish the mold, just gotta get moving again.
 
So, the brake pedal rod is not affixed into the master cylinder. Seems there should be a grommet or seal of some sort on the end of it? The brake pedal sometimes pulls up too far and keeps messing up the stop light switch. Here are pics of the rod and MC (best I could do) Can some one tell me how the push rod is attached to the MC???
Awesome!!
Thanks
 

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I think the rod was held in place with a grommer in a cap. I think I have some to take pictures on tomorrow.
 
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