1966 Dart D-Dart cam spec

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JezebelCharger70 said:
Those cam specs are not far off from my E-2, I am just not happy with the cam, it sounds and operates like a stock cam, I am gonna get my D-Dart spec cam ground from Don, and hopefully it operates like I am hoping
Click to expand...
You'll need a converter (or your 4 speed) and gears
 
I have a complete 4 speed setup to swap into my Dart now, along with a 3.91 rear gear set. It ought to be much quicker, I know this is off topic, but do you @toolmanmike know where I can find a 9.5 flywheel?
 
JezebelCharger70 said:
I have a complete 4 speed setup to swap into my Dart now, along with a 3.91 rear gear set. It ought to be much quicker, I know this is off topic, but do you @toolmanmike know where I can find a 9.5 flywheel?
Click to expand...
Not right off hand on the flywheel. Looks like the Ddart cam is going to need some headers and some head work.
271 hp@5500 but 290 tq@4000
 
toolmanmike said:
Let me put the Ddart specs in. (no other changes)
Click to expand...
I'm curious to see that .
When I watch You tube
'the Golden commandos 65 barracuda 273 commando hipo.
with that big cam in it and it falls on its face on the race track. what gives with that.
 
@toolmanmike I got spitfire headers, but may end up investing in the hedman headers, My "920" heads have an enlarged intake valve and some minor port work. When I pull the engine back apart, I am gonna do some more work to the heads. Should I go back with my original single plane 4 barrel iron intake, or keep the LD4B intake. I normally play with big blocks and Hemis, and I appreciate all of your guys information on making this little engine perform.
 
toolmanmike said:
Not right off hand on the flywheel. Looks like the Ddart cam is going to need some headers and some head work.
271 hp@5500 but 290 tq@4000
Click to expand...
Interesting, I enlarged the valves to 1.88/1.60 and pocket ported the heads and added small tube headers (through exhaust)
355 hp@6000 and 349 tq@5000
 
JezebelCharger70 said:
@toolmanmike I got spitfire headers, but may end up investing in the hedman headers, My "920" heads have an enlarged intake valve and some minor port work. When I pull the engine back apart, I am gonna do some more work to the heads. Should I go back with my original single plane 4 barrel iron intake, or keep the LD4B intake. I normally play with big blocks and Hemis, and I appreciate all of your guys information on making this little engine perform.
Click to expand...
LD4B superior
 
JezebelCharger70 said:
@toolmanmike I got spitfire headers, but may end up investing in the hedman headers, My "920" heads have an enlarged intake valve and some minor port work. When I pull the engine back apart, I am gonna do some more work to the heads. Should I go back with my original single plane 4 barrel iron intake, or keep the LD4B intake. I normally play with big blocks and Hemis, and I appreciate all of your guys information on making this little engine perform.
Click to expand...
LD4B all the way
 
toolmanmike said:
Interesting, I enlarged the valves to 1.88/1.60 and pocket ported the heads and added small tube headers (through exhaust)
355 hp@6000 and 349 tq@5000
Click to expand...

Sounds like similar work done to mine, I got a recommendation to contact Bruce Lindstrom and get his opinion on what cam to use. My main goal is to have a cam that has the correct sound profile and will perform like I would like. The E-2 doesn't do either.
 
JezebelCharger70 said:
@toolmanmike I got spitfire headers, but may end up investing in the hedman headers, My "920" heads have an enlarged intake valve and some minor port work. When I pull the engine back apart, I am gonna do some more work to the heads. Should I go back with my original single plane 4 barrel iron intake, or keep the LD4B intake. I normally play with big blocks and Hemis, and I appreciate all of your guys information on making this little engine perform.
Click to expand...
long tube headers = more torque ....... shorties don't cut it . I have full length hookers on mine .
 
What do you guys think of this cam grind:
480 lift Duration @.050 .242 intake .250 exhaust 108 lobe separation angle
Isky is offering to grind this for me, since I wasn't happy with the last cam. Said this should give me the sound I want and will allow me not to have to change my valve springs.
 

Now...... this d-dart has a serious 273 commando in it . it means business not like the golden commando 65 barracuda . this 66 d-dart is one healthy sb. you can hear the difference in sound of the two cars.
 
Syleng1 said:
Not to steal a good thread here but I have a question about grinding cams.

If you send in a core with smaller lift heights and smaller base circles- how does a machine shop “regrind” a cam larger?
For $79 they are not welding to your cam AND regrinding it. Anyone care to explain?
Click to expand...

Because they can put that lobe "anywhere" on that camshaft core they want it regarding the camshaft centerline.
 
JezebelCharger70 said:
What do you guys think of this cam grind:
480 lift Duration @.050 .242 intake .250 exhaust 108 lobe separation angle
Isky is offering to grind this for me, since I wasn't happy with the last cam. Said this should give me the sound I want and will allow me not to have to change my valve springs.
Click to expand...
Isky is a old time cam company. Many of their grinds are old school with lots of duration and not tons of lift. Now that is ok because the lobes are easy on valve springs. Your cam works. They just do but there's better choices out there. I bought the E4 because it was a off the shelf cam that was very close to the stock Charger/Commando cam. THere's better cams out there.
 
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JezebelCharger70 said:
I have a complete 4 speed setup to swap into my Dart now, along with a 3.91 rear gear set. It ought to be much quicker, I know this is off topic, but do you @toolmanmike know where I can find a 9.5 flywheel?
Click to expand...
I don't think you will like that 3:91 gear with a low first gear 3:09 ( if that's the 4 speed trans you have going in ) I tried it >>>>> you'll get tired of shifting too early thru the gears and not going anywhere . freeway rpms will be too high for comfort . I had 27" tires on mine . did not like that 3:91.. so I put the 3:55 back in . but that is just my opinion .
 
I appreciate everyone's input, I am just trying to find a cam that will perform and have some kind of sound profile, I don't plan on driving the car much outside of town, it is just a street machine and if I want to go fast, I have other cars that will serve that purpose. I just want my Dart to sound good and perform better than it does. That little E-2 I have is just terrible, sounds like a sewing machine and I just can't live with that. If anyone has a good recommendation on what cam to get, I would appreciate or otherwise I am gonna buy this cam: SB Chrysler Performance Flat Tappet Cam & Lifter Kit - 286°/294°, 242°/246°@ | USA Performance Parts

Have Isky grind that custom one, or have my buddy Don Johansen grind me a true D-Dart cam.

On the rear end gears, I know a 3.91 is gonna be steep with the 3.09 first gear in the 4 speed, but they were affordable and are for the 741 case in my early B-Body rear end in my Dart.
 
oldkimmer said:
The D Dart cam is pretty radical. U have to have the rest of the supporting cast to run it. Even then it’s not really livable as it will temperamental. And yes I know all about that. Kim
Click to expand...
I built my engine to D-Dart specs and went a little further, I have the factory style 10.5 dome pistons, "920" Casting Heads with 1.88 intake valves, ports cleaned and gasket matched, rotating assembly balanced, LD4B intake, and a 650 Holley Double Pumper. The only thing I don't have is the crazy stupid expensive Doug's Headers, I scored a pair of Spitfires that I am running, but may end up selling my Spitfires to invest in the Dougs
 
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