1967 Cuda FB project

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Well, studying the piece I made, decided it was ending too abrupt. The front slowly blends in with the fender so I decided that the back should too. Started over. Made a new "spear" and fit it the full length of the q-panel. Then cut off the bottom of the quarter cuz it has to be made taller. Made a new piece for the quarter bottom, and this is what came out. Much cleaner and drops the quarter to balance out the car.
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Now to do the other side and make the rear roll pan. Still don't think it's deep enough to make holes for the exhaust tho.

:burnout:
 
Can't you just notch the lower bumper for the pipes?? That's done on many modern cars and a few older ones as well??

treblig
 
As much as I've been diggin' the rear bumper mod, it popped into my head that it still may not be right. I know, I know. I should either have said something sooner or kept my mouth shut.

It dawned on me that in order to look right it might be best if the front & rear bumpers matched in design. You've been focusing on blending them both into the car which is a nifty idea but they aren't shaped the same.

I went back through your thread and looked at some pictures of your front bumper mod. The front is more squared and does have the recesses for the driving lights. I'm wondering if it wouldn't be a better idea on the back to mimic the same look.

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1967 'cuda said:
As much as I've been diggin' the rear bumper mod, it popped into my head that it still may not be right. I know, I know. I should either have said something sooner or kept my mouth shut.

It dawned on me that in order to look right it might be best if the front & rear bumpers matched in design. You've been focusing on blending them both into the car which is a nifty idea but they aren't shaped the same.

I went back through your thread and looked at some pictures of your front bumper mod. The front is more squared and does have the recesses for the driving lights. I'm wondering if it wouldn't be a better idea on the back to mimic the same look.

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That front bumper is not the finished product. I reworked the shape of the bumper after that. It's almost the same bullet shape as the factory. Actually, by the time it's done being formed, it will be damn close to factory shape. That's why I went with making the rear bumper fit better and mold into the car. Plus, the rear pan will be more "square" like the front is. So it should match really well. :prayer:
 
SNKEBIT said:
That front bumper is not the finished product. I reworked the shape of the bumper after that. It's almost the same bullet shape as the factory. Actually, by the time it's done being formed, it will be damn close to factory shape. That's why I went with making the rear bumper fit better and mold into the car. Plus, the rear pan will be more "square" like the front is. So it should match really well. :prayer:
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Cool! I'm sometimes hesitant to voice suggestions because I feel guys like yourself already seem to have a better knack for design than I do. - But I am really anxious to see how FrankenCuda turns out and will likely put my 2 cents in if I suspect you've got a design flaw.
 
1967 'cuda said:
Cool! I'm sometimes hesitant to voice suggestions because I feel guys like yourself already seem to have a better knack for design than I do. - But I am really anxious to see how FrankenCuda turns out and will likely put my 2 cents in if I suspect you've got a design flaw.
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It's all good, John. We know you can't help yourself!!! :poke:


:D
 
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Did some more welding and fitting. The rear will curve up and in some more when it gets attached to the rear roll pan.
 
SNKEBIT said:
Took the hood apert this morning. I was surprised how few spot welds there were. About 4-5 per side. Easy peasy. I am glad I did this. Too much surface rust in there to try and get rid of without taking apart.
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More later!! :glasses7:

I can drill like a madman now, BONUS!!!!!
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I need to do this to my 67s stock hood. Take it apart that is. Its perfectly straight, but the adhesive globs that holds the halves together has long come apart. And theres surface rust scale that rattles and shakes out every time i move it how hard will it be to reassemble one of these after its cleaned up and the rust is repaired providing i use the same outer skin and inner webbing?
 
moparmat2000 said:
I need to do this to my 67s stock hood. Take it apart that is. Its perfectly straight, but the adhesive globs that holds the halves together has long come apart. And theres surface rust scale that rattles and shakes out every time i move it how hard will it be to reassemble one of these after its cleaned up and the rust is repaired providing i use the same outer skin and inner webbing?
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It was really easy. There are only about 4-5 spot welds on each side. Mine was that way anyway. As long as you have it set up flat, it should go together easy.
 
SNKEBIT said:
It was really easy. There are only about 4-5 spot welds on each side. Mine was that way anyway. As long as you have it set up flat, it should go together easy.
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I will probably drill holes for #40 cleco pins through both pieces before i disassemble the hood. This way i can pin it back together in the exact same spot. Glad i saw this, whats dropping out of my hood looks like rusty coffee grounds. I know its surface scale, but needs to be gone. After which i will epoxy prime the framework and hood underside where it cant be reached before reassembling it.

What do you recommend for the adhesive that holds both halves together in the middle. I work in aerospace and we have a 2 part rubberized sealant we use on aircraft. I was thinking
 
moparmat2000 said:
I will probably drill holes for #40 cleco pins through both pieces before i disassemble the hood. This way i can pin it back together in the exact same spot. Glad i saw this, whats dropping out of my hood looks like rusty coffee grounds. I know its surface scale, but needs to be gone. After which i will epoxy prime the framework and hood underside where it cant be reached before reassembling it.

What do you recommend for the adhesive that holds both halves together in the middle. I work in aerospace and we have a 2 part rubberized sealant we use on aircraft. I was thinking
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It can only go together the way it was welded because all 4 sides make a box for the inner piece.
Any glue that will withstand some heat will work. :)
 
This is one of the projects that is making work on the Cuda really slow........
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Driveway needed some TLC. Still have to do the area in front of the shop. Need another grand for that. :mad:
 
Traded the Challenger/Viper project to my daughters boyfriend. Hoping he can get it done a little faster than I can. Too many projects. And looking for more. :realcrazy::wtf:
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He is finishing the welding on the bottom and then it needs to be blasted on the bottom and sealed for paint or undercoating. Then it can be put back on its wheels and be moved. The rusty quarters are soon to be removed.
 
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