1969 Dart Street/Strip (Re)Build

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Thanks to the warmish weather, got to do some painting. The dash, roll cage, steering column, and water pump are painted. The dash I went with John Deere Blitz Black. It turned out nice with a slightly sating sheen and was just what I was going for. The roll cage I painted with VHT Roll Bar and Chassis paint. It was not as glossy as I had hoped it would be. Maybe I didn't do it correctly? Temp not high enough? Who knows. Ordered an IDIDIT universal shorty tilt column with a Grant billet adapter for the steering wheel. When I first had it mocked in placed, I thought it stuck out too far. So I put the seat in and boy was I wrong! It was in the perfect position for me. Not too far away but not too close. And with the tilt, getting in and out will be nice as well as adjusting for driving. The hardest part was thinking how to mount it with coming up with some crazy mod. So I ended up sacrificing my old column and cut the mounting tabs from it. Turns out the section I cut out fit perfect on the new column! Hey I guess the sun shines on a dog's a$$ every now and then huh? It's starting to feel like things are starting to go my way for once.

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So trying out this metalcast "anodize" paint on my CSR water pump. The anodizing was faded on it which seems to be an issue on them after they start to age. I found this metalcast paint and was VERY please with the results. This was actually recommended by the plating shop who has anodized some parts for me. I was inquiring about re-anodizing the pump and he said that this would be a cheaper route and it looks good when done. Well he was right! The paint is translucent so the surface underneath needs to be prepped and in good shape. I simply sprayed some adhesion promoter to the pump parts (no sanding or polishing or anything). Sprayed 2 light coats per instructions and then a 3rd wet coat. The first 2 coats I was unsure that this would work but then that 3rd wet coat just made it sing!

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Faded anodizing

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After paint application. Hard to see how nice it really is on this part.

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On the pump itself I could get a better picture. It looks smooth and has depth to it. I was really impressed.

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Nice work on the column I ended up doing basically the same did the same thing awhile back worked out well..good job. I also like the anodizing trick, I've seen that paint at Summit Racing now I know what it will do.
 

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Nice work on the column I ended up doing basically the same did the same thing awhile back worked out well..good job. I also like the anodizing trick, I've seen that paint at Summit Racing now I know what it will do.

You're the one who gave me the idea on the shorty column and the mount. I just did the mount slightly different by not removing the old mounts from the tubing. So a big thanks to you for that! Made my life much easier for sure. And that paint can be had about anywhere. I picked it up at autozone.
 
Nice work on the column I ended up doing basically the same did the same thing awhile back worked out well..good job. I also like the anodizing trick, I've seen that paint at Summit Racing now I know what it will do.

You're the one who gave me the idea on the shorty column and the mount. I just did the mount slightly different by not removing the old mounts from the tubing. So a big thanks to you for that! Made my life much easier for sure. And that paint can be had about anywhere. I picked it up at autozone.


I think he has given all of us an idea or two from keeping an eye on his build thread

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You're the one who gave me the idea on the shorty column and the mount. I just did the mount slightly different by not removing the old mounts from the tubing. So a big thanks to you for that! Made my life much easier for sure. And that paint can be had about anywhere. I picked it up at autozone.


Oh yea, I forgot about the Flaming River question in the Suspension, Steering and Chassis section. regardless, you did a nice job on it.
 
You know I still get messages asking who makes the beefy 4 link I have. Lol

Lol……. I am doing another 9" housing shortened up for the Scamp. I just ordered all the weld on parts today….. Only thing though it will be for Caltracks!

This one will have a 2 3/4" Fill cap along with back brace, Drain and chromoly housing ends. Gotta cut it up and get on the Tig………..
 
Lol……. I am doing another 9" housing shortened up for the Scamp. I just ordered all the weld on parts today….. Only thing though it will be for Caltracks!

This one will have a 2 3/4" Fill cap along with back brace, Drain and chromoly housing ends. Gotta cut it up and get on the Tig………..

Figures Louis. You're always doing something badass!
 
Spent some time this evening modifying the original steering column bracket that attaches to the firewall so that I could attach the new AFCO bearing to it. Ended up having to cut out a section of it and replacing with new metal since it wasn't going to work with the old cutout and hole placements.

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Here's a couple of pictures of the IDIDIT column after it was painted with the John Deere Blitz Black. I love it. Not too flat, not too shiny.

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And how about a redneck makeshift paint booth? LOL

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More painting over the weekend. The guages really pop against the black.

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mike does sells some good stuff.. that where I got all my motor stuff for my 416 .. just waiting till you get your up an running. any time soon..
 
mike does sells some good stuff.. that where I got all my motor stuff for my 416 .. just waiting till you get your up an running. any time soon..

I feel that the lifters are a nice product but time will tell.

Drove up to Hays over the weekend to pick up the heads from Speier. There was good and not so good. Not really bad though. The good was that even though the heads had been ported some before, Chad said that they are "light years" better than they were. He said that with the way they are ported now, you may not necessarily see it on a flow bench but in a live engine, that's where I'm going to really see the results of the port work that he's done. The not so good was that my intake valves were trash. The edges were pretty thin. So we threw it on the flow bench and put the good valve in. Got the numbers and printed them out. Then we put in a bad valve and lost 5 cfm across the board! You could even hear that the air noise was different. The bad valve was loud and and sort of cackley like whereas the good valve had a smoother air flow noise. I was astonished that a tiny bit of lip on the valve would make that much difference. Therefore a new set of intake valves are in order and luckily the valve reliefs in the pistons had not been cut yet. So we're having them take a little more out for the added valve height. All I have for now.
 
Here's a couple of pictures of the IDIDIT column after it was painted with the John Deere Blitz Black. I love it. Not too flat, not too shiny.

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Turned out nice...I used SEM Trim Black but the effect was about the same.
 
Spent some time this evening modifying the original steering column bracket that attaches to the firewall so that I could attach the new AFCO bearing to it. Ended up having to cut out a section of it and replacing with new metal since it wasn't going to work with the old cutout and hole placements.

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Where did you get that bearing at? Any part number? I'm doing a similar setup. Thanks.
 
Some awesome work there Clint .... had to read the whole thread after talking to you about the torque converter ....keep up the great work and hope to start posting some of my 69 Dart work soon
 
Wow has it been cold lately or what?! Temps haven't been above 20 here for over a week and I don't have an insulated or heated garage. Therefore, my butt stays inside! But I did make a list of all the parts that I still needed to buy and the jobs I needed to do yet. I was unhappily surprised at how much I still had yet to buy. But since I wasn't working on the car, I bought a bunch of parts. Some of the parts included all new front end parts from Rock Auto, new deep trans pan, some of the exhaust parts including some Ultra Flo mufflers, cutouts, electric cutouts, driveshaft loop, trans blanket, steering u-joints and rod, billet headlight switch and all other switches for fuel pump, etc. from Haywire, glovebox, a set of Competition Engineering adjustable drag shocks, and that's about all I can think of at the moment.

I still need the X pipe from TTi, front skinnies, and the converter. Dynamic converters are about $100 off right now until about March, or so they say. But that's who I decided to go with. I didn't need the converter and I didn't want the warranty to start yet and still wanted the $100 off so I put down a deposit and told them that I wouldn't need it for at least another month. What I'll be getting is their 9.5" with a 4000-4200 stall. I was debating between the 8" and the 9.5" but felt that the 8" might get a little too annoying around town. The 8" would be a little faster but it's also $300 more and it will run a few hundred RPM higher on the highway at a minimum. So naturally I went for the 9.5". I think it will be the right purchase for what I'm doing.

And on a side note, the motor parts are getting cleaned as we speak getting ready for assembly. Woot!
 
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