1969 Dodge Dart Pro-Street 440

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skep419 said:
10 spline should be a 742 no crush sleaves
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Yes sir you are correct, but there is nothing stock about that rear end. We have strange axles a 4.88 gears which had to be shimmed because of the monster ring gear. So there is one in there.

To drive it on the highway i have to get another 3rd member, something that will gove me a 2,000 ish rpm at 75. Im guessing something in the 2.70s or 2.80s. The 35"s will lower it more, ik there are calculators out there to figure it out.
 
Taxmanth said:
Theres a gap in this window any way, i need to make a longer one to close the gap.
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Years ago when I made lexan windows for my old '69 Dart Super Street car, I made the door windows long enough to overlap the rear quarter windows by about .75". The rear quarter windows were secured directly to the body window opening top and bottom; the overlap from the front door windows prevented air from getting underneath them. Oh yeah, I also eliminated the door vent windows and frames to lighten the car.
 
ocdart said:
Years ago when I made lexan windows for my old '69 Dart Super Street car, I made the door windows long enough to overlap the rear quarter windows by about .75". The rear quarter windows were secured directly to the body window opening top and bottom; the overlap from the front door windows prevented air from getting underneath them. Oh yeah, I also eliminated the door vent windows and frames to lighten the car.
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I was thinking about making all the glass into lexan, professional ones for the whole car are 1200 and if i made my own from home depot it would be like 250. So.... Something to think about. So far im told that lexan scratches easy and I AM DRIVING the car so worried the wipers would trash the windshield. It gets crazy hot here as well and i want to still be able to roll down and open the windows. So with no back seat anyway i think it will be fine if i just let the rear quarters be the only lexan.
 
Wing...?
 

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Wing...?!
 

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Aaaahhhh got to knotch the bottom of it to fit the trunk....
 

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Well now its starting to look like somethin
 

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Added on the winglets and the bolts for the front of the wing to the trunk. Also added the tie rods and bolted them with hiem rods to the trunk. And i total totally messed up. None of those taps i put on them rods are straight, i blame some of it on the fact that i dont have a work bench and the other on the junky dies, they dont have that little screw in the side so i can under cut the first pass. So i think ill get some brass or aluminum rods and die those. Theyll be easyer to cut and polished brass might look pretty cool. But for now, this is as done as its going to get. I also have to get a few more bolts to finnish the install.
 

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This should help her go down the road straight.
 

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Drive shaft came in the mail!!
 

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The yolks are a pain in the *** to install. Had to heat the pinion yolk up for it to slip on nicely, now ill have to do the same to get it to come off. The trans yolk had the same problem, then realised that the drive shaft loop was getting in the way so ill have to make new bolt holes for it and bolt it back up out of the way... Still wish i had a work bench with a vice.

But both the yolks have new seals on them and the shaft is just hiding out of the way for now.
 

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O yea for got to mention that i got the shaft with the biggest baddest u joints you can get, the 8.75 rear end had the small slant 6 u joints on them, NOT NO MORE :blob::burnout::color:

Here you can see the side by side.
 

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Drive shaft is installed, but theres another problem ...lol figures. The front drive shaft loop was hitting the top of the driveshaft. No problem right? Just cut a new set of holes and move the top half of the loop up. Boom! No prob. Finially got enought altitude to get the u joint on the pinion yolk and then i notice that theres about a 1/4 in of room between the shaft and the trans tunnel. :violent1::violent1:

After closer inspection of the rear end, the pinion was pitched up! Thats fine, i have a 4 link, just contract the top two links and extend the bottom two and that will tilt the rear end forward right?

Has anyone adjusted 4 links? Im guessing that how it works. And then ill just have to measure the lingth of the rods and make them match so i know that they are straight.
 

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Measure the trans angle with a angle finder first. should be between -2 and 0 deg. adjust your pinion angle from there. (with a 4 link i believe -2 is what your after because it doesn't move as much as ss springs) if the trans is pointing down towards the rear -2 than the pinion should be at 0. if the trans is at 0 the pinion should point down -2. I may be wrong but I read up on this topic for a solid month.
 
skep419 said:
Measure the trans angle with a angle finder first. should be between -2 and 0 deg. adjust your pinion angle from there. (with a 4 link i believe -2 is what your after because it doesn't move as much as ss springs) if the trans is pointing down towards the rear -2 than the pinion should be at 0. if the trans is at 0 the pinion should point down -2. I may be wrong but I read up on this topic for a solid month.
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Aiiight sweet man! Ill give it a shot. I that doesent work there is a way to adjust where the shocks mount to the back of the diff. I guell ill have to move those up and get the body away from the drive shaft.

I really dont care that much, bc its not like im going off road or something, but base has alot of speed bumps and if i hit one too fast and the car bottoms out on the shaft and bends it... Ill rip the road off the soil with a GBU-54 :angryfir::axe:
 
Ok i got the drive shaft as centerd as possible. Now i have to reattach the coil overs to their new home. I searched for hours and found out that mopar suggests 3" of travle for the joust and rebound of the rear suspenshion. Lol 1.5" is all i have so thats all its getting.

Only think that makes me sad is the ride height it taller now. And i want the car as low as possible bc we all know if you lift you lose,!!! I guess i can counter that with changing the 4 link.:coffee2:
 

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Close as it gets
 

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Has any one cut and refabed the trans tunnel...? If i do that i could get more travle out of the drive shaft i think,
 
Most guys that refab it are doing it for a different reason.
To make room for an overdrive trans. The main reason its a pain is because of the torsion bar cross member.
 
it's not for offroading it's for when you launch. the nose of the diff will come up slightly.

so you put it down a hair like 5* for SS springs and i guess 2* for 4-links i'm no expert.

in the old days they used a snubber with the SS springs on manual trans cars for when the nose came up when launchin'
 
Well, talked to the experts and looked it up in the books and got the rear end figured out. Now working on that dashboard. I have the original one, and its in rough shape. But nothing i dont think some paint and leather cant fix.

Sad part is that i have to cut the thing up to fit in the car, around the roll cage and what not.
 

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Making progress on the dash
 

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Nothing there
 

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It fits, need to trim the foam of the dash pad. Also my look into making a glove box for paper work and change.

Odd thing is that the dash pad is black but looks the same green as the dash metal.... Wierd
 

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