1972 Dodge Colt

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slant six said:
what is the problem with the small bore that they cannot do?
Click to expand...
The top plate that he seals the chamber to is larger than 4.0.
So to position the smaller slant chamber he could not find any plate to do it.
As he explained to me, it has to seal with no leaks to start the test.
Between the 4 head bolt holes on the small chamber it was no Bueno.
 
Stan, could you temporarily epoxy a couple of bolt holes and then drill them back out when you are done?
 
qkcuda said:
Stan, could you temporarily epoxy a couple of bolt holes and then drill them back out when you are done?
Click to expand...
That would seem to be a viable alternative to me.

Thanks for the explanation Stan! I do not know much about flow testing things.


Greg
 
Getting closer on putting the head back on.

Resized_20230221_130924.jpeg
 
qkcuda said:
Stan, could you temporarily epoxy a couple of bolt holes and then drill them back out when you are done?
Click to expand...
I could, but he made it clear he was done.

It was just a science experiment anyway.
Just to find out where I was.
It will be what it is.

Last pass it was pulling hard all the way into the rev limiter when I missed 3rd gear.

Maybe on the other head I am working on, I will get it flowed.
That one is getting the 11/32 stems with bronze walls and some guide trimming.

I spent a rainy data plotting all the numbers I could find on the interweb in excel.
All the plots I saw the intake ports fall off around .3 to .35 lift.
All were 100 CFM less than an aftermarket Aluminum LA head.
 
Stan, I was just looking at some of your pics, again. I don't see any valve notches in the pistons. Do you have any? If not, how is your piston to valve clearance?
 
Hey Charrlie_S, it is close. Close.
With the cam installed like I had for last year, advanced, it was like .025 on the intake.
That was no lash and no head gasket.
Course that was one of the heads that did not work for a bunch of reasons.
With this head I have now (2206035-1) I have .050 with no lash or head gasket.
Soo with a shim gasket and .018 lash I have more.
And you know intake clearance is not as critical as the piston is moving away from the valve.
I have .185 on the exhaust.
I only shaved this head .050.
The block was shaved .090 years ago.
TRW forged flat tops, .060.

And you can't see it in the pictures but there are a couple of notches from missed gears!
That was before the Rev Limiter.
Same loose nut shifting gears.
 
I was concerned. I usually run 170 engines, which are zero deck, and with .100 off the head, shim gasket, I couldn't run a cam bigger then the crane s264. Lift .434 and 264 adv dur, and 222 @.050
When I pulled that engine down, I had 2 "witness" marks on each/every piston, with no notches.
 
This was Posted tonight on facebook. A story from 1978, Thunder Valley Raceway.
This man raced against the Colt back in the day!

Thunder Valley.JPG


Thunder Valley Tom K.jpg
 
Stan, how does the head fit over those studs? It is overly tight or does it fall right on?
 
RustyRatRod said:
Stan, how does the head fit over those studs? It is overly tight or does it fall right on?
Click to expand...
Rob they are just in for fit check.
I didn't want to put the head on and find out one or two would not go in.
Also the engine is back under the windshield so I could never get on with studs in.
Also wanted to make sure the bolt holes were cleaned out.
Going to Summit in a minute to get their lube oil.
I watched a video on ARP yesterday and it looks like the way to go.
Ehrenberg said something in the last Mopar Action,
"the torque is accurately measured only when the screw is turning".
I don't want or need another headgasket leak!
 
Hyper_pak said:
Rob they are just in for fit check.
I didn't want to put the head on and find out one or two would not go in.
Also the engine is back under the windshield so I could never get on with studs in.
Also wanted to make sure the bolt holes were cleaned out.
Going to Summit in a minute to get their lube oil.
I watched a video on ARP yesterday and it looks like the way to go.
Ehrenberg said something in the last Mopar Action,
"the torque is accurately measured only when the screw is turning".
I don't want or need another headgasket leak!
Click to expand...
What head gasket are you using, Stan?
 
I have a couple of the aussie-speed large bore composite, but going to save them.
I had been running a steel shim, but that is what started leaking oil last time out.
Was it a combination of used up head bolts or something else, I am not sure.
So to keep from tearing this thing down again I am using a fel-pro composite this time.
I will loose a little compression I know but, keeping it together while I learn to drive the Colt is better.
Sides, I have been catching grief about this street engine I am running so I have a couple in the wings.
They should be "race" engines!
 
Dumb question but with the block and head decking have you checked that the head bolts can't bottom out?
 
Good question, I have never checked that.
I run hardened washers under the bolt heads, they are .1225.
I only cut .090 +.050, .14 total.
This picture show the head bolt on the head, plenty of thread.
You can almost bottom this bolt in the block deck face.
Just a couple of threads showing.
Resized_20230222_165156.jpeg


The fel-pro composite has a bore diameter of 3.5235 on the gasket I have.
The Aussie-Speed big bore measures 3.6520.

Here is the big bore laid over the felpro.
You can see the 2 fire-rings.

Resized_20230222_173317.jpeg
 
I put the head on today.
I used the ARP lubricant and I was very impressed.
I have always used a mixture of STP and oil to lube treads, washers, and bolt heads.
Other than the brush in the bottle sucks, the product is great.
I pulled the nuts down with my torque wrench and it was like butter.
They all pulled real even and smooth.
Well worth the cost and now I have a life-time supply.
Resized_20230224_172745.jpeg
 
Nice progress, Stan! On Vixen's engine, the head was milled "somewhere" in the .175" neighborhood and the head bolts tightened down just fine.
 
The studs, nuts and washers look like this.
Also installed the rocker shaft with the ARP lube and that was better also.
Rocker arm torque is not in the Dutra book, unless I overlooked it.
It is now, at least my copy.
30 Lb Ft.
Resized_20230224_201606.jpeg
 
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