1975 360 budget build

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Bunch of Clifford parts still setting on the shelf. It's hard to get the retired guy to work on it and the skull maker to port the cylinder head.
 
I myself would use more cam and rear gear.
This cam from another thread would rock.


A Lunati Voodoo 740 Solid Lifter cam in my 340.

Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 264/272 ;Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 235/243 ;Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .526/.546 ;LSA/ICL: 110/106 ;Valve Lash (Int/Exh): .016/.016 ;RPM Range: 2400-6600.

If you don't already have one, could you make a recording of how it sounds from idle up to around 6300 and put it up on youttube? From outside the car, as well as inside?

that's the cam penciled out in my 360 build.
already have the dougs D453 headers and summit a body exhaust and H pipe.
Thanks in advance.

Aaron
 
Bunch of Clifford parts still setting on the shelf. It's hard to get the retired guy to work on it and the skull maker to port the cylinder head.

LOL I understand. So tell me a little about it. Does it belong to yall? What's it supposed to be goin in? Details man details. Did you see where I'm doing a long rod 225 build complete with gear drive and solid roller cam?
 
And I disagree with you :D …. The 300 hp crate motor was nothing more than a stock 360 magnum with a 4bbl and headers. They didn't pull out the roller cam and install a OEM 340 FT cam ….
The difference is in the kegger intake/throttle body injection system computer tune vs the hot rodders approach with the carb intake, 750 carb & the 1-3/4 headers they used for the MP offering.

When I did my ‘00 - 5.9 Magnum into my car, I lacked the 750 carb but used a Edelbrock 600 AFB and had a upgraded intake being the Edelbrock RPM vs the MP - M1.

Headers are Hooker 1-3/4 into a “H” piped 2-1/2 exhaust.
 
Sorry Aaron, I can not.

If you don't already have one, could you make a recording of how it sounds from idle up to around 6300 and put it up on youttube? From outside the car, as well as inside?

that's the cam penciled out in my 360 build.
already have the dougs D453 headers and summit a body exhaust and H pipe.
Thanks in advance.

Aaron
 
Is the “total budget” really $2k?

Parts and any associated labor?

That sounds like a bit of a tall order unless the bottom end is in pretty good condition already, along with the heads.

I’d love to see a cost breakdown of how that $2k will get spent.

Of course, if the engine hasn’t been torn down yet, the cost of the bottom end and heads really won’t be “known”.

If the condition of the bottom end is pretty good, and you can do “all” the labor yourself(meaning, the shortblock components never leave your garage/shop for any outside work)...... that’ll save some bucks.

Most newbie diy-ers don’t have the resources to make a qualified assessment of the true condition of the heads........ so they usually need some amount of outside labor.
 
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:popcorn: Watching as I have a '75 motorhome 360 laying over in the corner of the garage, along with a short tail stock 727. 36,000 original miles, had it driving about 5 years ago before I parted it out.
 
Is the “total budget” really $2k?

Parts and any associated labor?

That sounds like a bit of a tall order unless the bottom end is in pretty good condition already, along with the heads.

I’d love to see a cost breakdown of how that $2k will get spent.

Of course, if the engine hasn’t been torn down yet, the cost of the bottom end and heads really won’t be “known”.

If the condition of the bottom end is pretty good, and you can do “all” the labor yourself(meaning, the shortblock components never leave your garage/shop for any outside work)...... that’ll save some bucks.

Most newbie diy-ers don’t have the resources to make a qualified assessment of the true condition of the heads........ so they usually need some amount of outside labor.
gaskets, re-ring kit & timing chain. Probably can count on buying exhaust valves. If you have a ball-hone, plastic-gage, dremel and valve lapper & some compound, hop to it like a bunny and git'er done for 700 bucks including cam/lifters/intake - :)
 
:popcorn: Watching as I have a '75 motorhome 360 laying over in the corner of the garage, along with a short tail stock 727. 36,000 original miles, had it driving about 5 years ago before I parted it out.

Ive got a 1979 360 Motor Home away to get some lovin'. 42,000 miles. Im very curious as to how the Crank and Bores look.
 
LOL I understand. So tell me a little about it. Does it belong to yall? What's it supposed to be goin in? Details man details. Did you see where I'm doing a long rod 225 build complete with gear drive and solid roller cam?
Customers '65 Barracuda. But, go figure, he has got us modifying his trucks and 20' dumpsters for his trash business.

I did see some mention of your slant 6 build in another post.
 
Customers '65 Barracuda. But, go figure, he has got us modifying his trucks and 20' dumpsters for his trash business.

I did see some mention of your slant 6 build in another post.

Well I am going to finish this one. I don't know when, but it's going to get done. I'm working on the car now. Search "runnin and drivin" if you're interested and check it out. Neato little car. Sat up since 1982 and then I bought it. Poor thing. lol
 
I figured the OP working with a 360 should get 1 hp per cubic inch with 4bbl, mild head work, mild cam and a good exhaust.


That 245 was net though.... it's 300 gross. Just a 4bbl and headers make a stock 360 mag about 300 hp
  • 4 bbl (600-750 cfm) & intake (dual plane)
  • Fresh heads. MPG and power is made by good sealing valves. If you are up to the challenge, mild bowl porting at home with a Dremel can get you a little more....
  • camshaft- keep duration in the range of 214-224 @ 50; lift between .444-.474.
  • A good dual exhaust system.
  • Tune and more tuning. Your are at your goal.
What pistons do you recommend? Should I just run the stock ones?
 
Here's Comp Cams own dyno sheet for ( I know..) a 356 cubic inch sb chev
Nice Dart heads, high compression, .477 .480 .224 .230 XE 268, holley 3310, 1 5/8 open headers
This engine made 342 hp.
Similar modifications should get you close to your goal.But for the street you need torque.

COMP Cams® - Xtreme Energy 268 Hydraulic Flat Tappet Camshaft, Part # 12-242-2 Dyno Sheet copy.jpg
 
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