So 300 HP with almost no money?
Let's put a mild 8.2:1 360 on the dyno.
305 HP on page 2 of this thread.
Let's put a mild 8.2:1 360 on the dyno.
305 HP on page 2 of this thread.
So 300 HP with almost no money?
Let's put a mild 8.2:1 360 on the dyno.
305 HP on page 2 of this thread.
I myself would use more cam and rear gear.
This cam from another thread would rock.
A Lunati Voodoo 740 Solid Lifter cam in my 340.
Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 264/272 ;Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 235/243 ;Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .526/.546 ;LSA/ICL: 110/106 ;Valve Lash (Int/Exh): .016/.016 ;RPM Range: 2400-6600.
Bunch of Clifford parts still setting on the shelf. It's hard to get the retired guy to work on it and the skull maker to port the cylinder head.
The difference is in the kegger intake/throttle body injection system computer tune vs the hot rodders approach with the carb intake, 750 carb & the 1-3/4 headers they used for the MP offering.And I disagree with you …. The 300 hp crate motor was nothing more than a stock 360 magnum with a 4bbl and headers. They didn't pull out the roller cam and install a OEM 340 FT cam ….
If you don't already have one, could you make a recording of how it sounds from idle up to around 6300 and put it up on youttube? From outside the car, as well as inside?
that's the cam penciled out in my 360 build.
already have the dougs D453 headers and summit a body exhaust and H pipe.
Thanks in advance.
Aaron
gaskets, re-ring kit & timing chain. Probably can count on buying exhaust valves. If you have a ball-hone, plastic-gage, dremel and valve lapper & some compound, hop to it like a bunny and git'er done for 700 bucks including cam/lifters/intake -Is the “total budget” really $2k?
Parts and any associated labor?
That sounds like a bit of a tall order unless the bottom end is in pretty good condition already, along with the heads.
I’d love to see a cost breakdown of how that $2k will get spent.
Of course, if the engine hasn’t been torn down yet, the cost of the bottom end and heads really won’t be “known”.
If the condition of the bottom end is pretty good, and you can do “all” the labor yourself(meaning, the shortblock components never leave your garage/shop for any outside work)...... that’ll save some bucks.
Most newbie diy-ers don’t have the resources to make a qualified assessment of the true condition of the heads........ so they usually need some amount of outside labor.
Watching as I have a '75 motorhome 360 laying over in the corner of the garage, along with a short tail stock 727. 36,000 original miles, had it driving about 5 years ago before I parted it out.
Is the Plastic-Gauge for checking Crack clearance for new bearings?plastic-gage
New and old.Is the Plastic-Gauge for checking Crack clearance for new bearings?
So worth getting if I re-ring my standard Pistons?New and old.
you need to plastic gage your rod an main bearings if you replace them. I personally want no less than .002 and no more than .003So worth getting if I re-ring my standard Pistons?
I don’t know. What do you think?So worth getting if I re-ring my standard Pistons?
Customers '65 Barracuda. But, go figure, he has got us modifying his trucks and 20' dumpsters for his trash business.LOL I understand. So tell me a little about it. Does it belong to yall? What's it supposed to be goin in? Details man details. Did you see where I'm doing a long rod 225 build complete with gear drive and solid roller cam?
Customers '65 Barracuda. But, go figure, he has got us modifying his trucks and 20' dumpsters for his trash business.
I did see some mention of your slant 6 build in another post.
I figured the OP working with a 360 should get 1 hp per cubic inch with 4bbl, mild head work, mild cam and a good exhaust.
That 245 was net though.... it's 300 gross. Just a 4bbl and headers make a stock 360 mag about 300 hp
What pistons do you recommend? Should I just run the stock ones?
- 4 bbl (600-750 cfm) & intake (dual plane)
- Fresh heads. MPG and power is made by good sealing valves. If you are up to the challenge, mild bowl porting at home with a Dremel can get you a little more....
- camshaft- keep duration in the range of 214-224 @ 50; lift between .444-.474.
- A good dual exhaust system.
- Tune and more tuning. Your are at your goal.
What pistons do you recommend? Should I just run the stock ones?
Do you know what style piston the factory one is?Yes. %he stock pistons will be sufficient as long as they are in good shape.
Do you know what style piston the factory one is?
Stock would work for what you are doing.What pistons do you recommend? Should I just run the stock ones?