1st 318 rebuild

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silvadful

silvadful

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hey Guys.
I have a 318 going into a 74 cj limo.just starting the rebuild and have a few options to choose from.
have 4 x 318 blocks
#4006730-318-16 1975 virgin block
#2536030-318-14 1978
#4006730-318-11 1975
#2536030-318-14 1969 have crank but was ceized and pretty rusty in bores
1x 360 block.
#3418496-1-360 19 73 no crank for this.
2x 318 cranks

2 sets of 273 heads # 2843675
360 heads # 3769973
360 heads # 4027596
340 heads # 3671587-9 from the numbers i have been able to find.
inlet manifold with cast # 3614038 ithink medium rise 2 barrel that i cant find any info on.
Any ideas witch combo would be best.was going to do 318 with 360 heads or the 340 heads?? but the more i read getting conflicting info. starting to think about the 360.
any advice appreciated.

great site to
 
If you have all the parts to do a 360 then that is what I would do. If you're going to do a 318 with 360 heads be careful on piston selection so you keep the compression ratio around 9 to 9.5
 
silvadful said:
hey Guys.
I have a 318 going into a 74 cj limo.just starting the rebuild and have a few options to choose from.
have 4 x 318 blocks
#4006730-318-16 1975 virgin block
#2536030-318-14 1978
#4006730-318-11 1975
#2536030-318-14 1969 have crank but was ceized and pretty rusty in bores
1x 360 block.
#3418496-1-360 19 73 no crank for this.
2x 318 cranks

2 sets of 273 heads # 2843675
360 heads # 3769973
360 heads # 4027596
340 heads # 3671587-9 from the numbers i have been able to find.
inlet manifold with cast # 3614038 ithink medium rise 2 barrel that i cant find any info on.
Any ideas witch combo would be best.was going to do 318 with 360 heads or the 340 heads?? but the more i read getting conflicting info. starting to think about the 360.
any advice appreciated.

great site to
Click to expand...
What is a CJ limo ? I think the 360 would be the best bet .
 
Depends what you want the engine to do and what your budget is, if you go the 360 route youll need a crank but if you go 318 then youll need pistons to bring the compression up. Is this a daily driver thats going to be stock?
 
I am aiming at reasonably stockish but not quite .also got with the blocks and heads an eagle cam #he1423al then a #12 on its own.Havnt been able to find any info on this yet. Have pistons for 360 but havnt gone right thru them yet to check condition.Probably depends on how easy it is to get a crank.
Cj limo is an Austrlian made Chrysler by Chrysler.
Should be a pic
Other option could be 318 with 340 heads? as have 2 complete 318s sb.will they still affect comp like 360 heads??
(PS pic is not my car just got of google.)
 

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To use 340/360 heads on a 318 you need KB pistons zero decked, cylinder head chambers blue printed to 68cc and a 0.040" gasket for 9.1:1CR
 
jerry6 said:
Cool car . never seen one of them .
Click to expand...


there like driving round in your lounge room.lol. so much room. big comfortable as bucket seats that line up to a bench seat. seperate arm rest for driver and passenger.cant wait to get it mobile again. been a while.:tonqe:
more what mine looks like.lol
 

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quick update. 360 block has major lip at top of bore, be a rebore for sure.
the best 318 block has practically no lip and looks to be in real good shape.
havnt hot tanked it yet though.and have crank.
 
Let's start with the basic.

Do you want to do a 318 or a 360 engine?
I ask because if it does not matter, then use the 360 engine.
Worry not about the lip on the bore. Each block should be looked at by a machinist. And then prepped as needed.

If money is a concern and your trying to save money on machine work by not boring the engine, then you do not have enuff money and are probably in the wrong hobby.
These things take money and you need a good bank roll to just get a platform off the stand.
 
Now, if you want to do a 318, the use of 360/340 heads with there much larger chamber will lower compression a good bit and the piston advice above should be followed.

If you stay with the 318 heads, use the 318 heads, in which I think is a good idea considering you small cam.
 
Hey rumble. The more i research this the more im thinking 360 as the machining on heads etc to get the comp back up on 318 would not be far off a rebore any way.Budget is a factor but got abit to play with for a close to stock build. and i would rather take a bit longer to get it right than rush it and have to do it again.
Im just looking for advice etc at the moment to make good choice's.
all good and appreciated.
Havnt settled on that cam either just was thrown in with the blocks an heads. havnt been able to find any info on those numbers,
and im a Newbie to all this.
 
Done a bit more reseach and found out these cars only came out with a 265 hemi 6 or 360 v8.(always thought it was 318 original for some reason.) Had a closer look at the 360 and the lip not as bad as first thought (though this is my first time building an engine). So Blocks off to machine shop next week to get hot tanked and measured up be fore make final decision, Then if all well try to find a crank for it. Not so easy in little old New Zealand. but they do come up now and then. Also signed up on local mopar site to hook up with da locals.The New Zealand mopar forum. Great site like this with plenty good advice and tips.
 
found the ownership papers last wknd and turned out i was right in thinking it was a 318 original. So change of plan. Going to do 318.Have good block,Forged crank, light weight floating pin conrods + heavier rods.not committed on which of those to use? KB pistons or equivalant.Some one told me KB not that good quality?? Waiting for a reply to see what he suggest. 360 or 340 heads (both have the smaller valves) and follow what 273 suggested.
Any further advice greatly appreciated.
was kinda hoping round 290-300 hpish but that not critical.
 
To add to what I said earlier, (340/360 headed 318 9.1:1 CR) with a high lift 268 cam, Eddy RPM, 650 carb and headers should get ya 350+hp especially if you do a little pocket porting
 
273 said:
To use 340/360 heads on a 318 you need KB pistons zero decked, cylinder head chambers blue printed to 68cc and a 0.040" gasket for 9.1:1CR
Click to expand...
hEY 273:
In order to zero deck the pistons do you have to assemble the block with crank and pistons to get measurement or is there a formula you can use to figure out how much to remove?. i read some where you can fill the conbustion chamber of head with a seringe to get the cc volume which makes sense.
The block is 001 over tolerance from stock on 4 cylinders so do i just go 010 over or go to 030 over as it seems like the standard and parts are readily available. Also Is it better to use 360 rods with pressed pins that are a heavier rod or go with the lighter 318 floating pin rods??
Car is just going to be weekender trips and such and likely never see a track. Hp is not crtical just plucked some numbers outa me head but want bit more than stock.300 got nice ring to it.:D
have 360 dual plane inlet man and exh and stock rebuilt 2brl carb(so i was told)
can always replace with holley later.
Do some mild porting on heads just to remove lumps bumps and casting marks etc.
Any help /advice greatly appreciated.:newb:
 
silvadful said:
found the ownership papers last wknd and turned out i was right in thinking it was a 318 original. So change of plan. Going to do 318.Have good block,Forged crank, light weight floating pin conrods + heavier rods.not committed on which of those to use? KB pistons or equivalant.Some one told me KB not that good quality?? Waiting for a reply to see what he suggest. 360 or 340 heads (both have the smaller valves) and follow what 273 suggested.
Any further advice greatly appreciated.
was kinda hoping round 290-300 hpish but that not critical.
Click to expand...

If you have the original block, I would use what parts came stock in that block.
Crank, rods etc. if you have to buy pistons KB are pretty good and reasonable, just make sure you allow for extra top ring gap. They take like .030 ring gap, that is where most people screw up.
 
sireland67 said:
If you have the original block, I would use what parts came stock in that block.
Crank, rods etc. if you have to buy pistons KB are pretty good and reasonable, just make sure you allow for extra top ring gap. They take like .030 ring gap, that is where most people screw up.
Click to expand...
Yes read something about using the specs that come with kb pistons and not use mopar specs for ring gap.
The car had a 265 in it when i bought it so dont have original block so will be a mash up of parts bought recently.
I do have the block that the forged crank and rods came from but this is already bored 030 over and guessing would need rebore again,was in bits when bought it.do you think i would be better to use that than the stock block i have.I havn't measured this one up so unsure of wear. be my mission tonight.

measured this block up and all looking good on 1st bank then flip over start on other bank and 1 of the cylinders had some pretty major rust scale on it (well beyond surface). Couldnt see before as was layered in grease.so back to using stock block and do bit of research into what frosty has said below.
 
I used 340 heads with Keith black KB399 dome top pistons in my 318.

Most people on here will recommend the KB167 pistons because there's been a few magazine articles that use them in 400 hp builds.

I much prefer the KB399. It has a solid dome top on it which can be machined to alter your compression ratio without milling hell out of your block and heads.

If you zero deck your block and mill cylinder heads. you WILL need new shorter pushrods and then you also have to get the intake faces of the cylinder heads machined and the whole thing becomes an expensive pain in the neck!

Also, once you machine something, it's gone forever. In most cases can only shave about 0.060" off a head before it's junk.

Mine came to about 10.4:1 compression ratio with 2.02" intake valves and 1.6" exhaust valves. Combustion chambers were 66.5cc.
 
Sireland67 is spot on about the ring gap. if you order KB pistons, file fit the top rings to EXACTLY what they recommend for your bore size.

There's a formula to calculate it, it comes with the pistons and is relevant to the bore size and type of engine application ie drag, tow, street, circle track.

in any case, the top gaps are larger than most other cast or hypereutectic top rings gaps, but it's critical to get it right for engine longevity.

If you pay someone to assemble it, they NEED to know how important this is.
 
That all sounds like good advice Frosty. Will look into all that before i decide.Thanks very much.Didnt think about push rods etc but thats where this forum comes in handy. And i want to do as much of the work i can myself.Been learning heaps already and havnt really started yet.
Good stuff.
 
ok decided to stick with 318 and 360 heads. block in machine shop getting hot tanked and bored +.020. kb 399 pistons on order but wont get here till next month. have forged crank been crack tested and measured up all good so far .heads are 73 cc .gona do bit o tidy up in the ports just to smooth out and remove casting marks etc. cant wait to get started :D .
 
had my first play at head porting. bit paranoid bout going thru push rod hole, found a 3/8 drive ext a good guide.start other head tomorrow.
In%20The%20Garage.gif
 

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