I think the spot facing involved was for the jam nut to seat against. not sure the ones pictured would contact the rocker arm flat area with the built-in washer. at least, that's my take. someone with more experience will set us both on the correct path.
There’s a very good chance that the Mancini rockers would hit the Edelbrock springs as well. Most aftermarket rockers need to be moved up and away from the valve to clear the spring retainer, unless beehive springs are used.
MRE - Aluminum Roller Rocker Arm Kit : "valve springs up to 1.650 diameter"
A fill will be fine, although slow.
Here you go, this should explain it. 273 Rocker Arm modification jig for locking adjusters
Yeah. It's a lot of material too. once you've done 16 of them.
You can get a cheap end mill for the drill press that'd make quick work of it.
Plunge cutting with an end mill in drill press might work, but if there is any clearance in the spindle bearings bad things might happen. That endmill is gonna have to be probably 5/8 or three-quarter inch diameter and it’s gonna wanna grab and wobble unless the drill press spindle bearings are almost perfect. You’re also gonna need a very rigid set up so the rocker arm can’t move. It will have to be clamped very securely to the table. If I had the option, I would use the disk sander. I would probably try to rough them all in with a hand angle grinder and then finish on the dish sander to get them flat the last 16th of an inch or so. Depends on how much you have to take off.
My tiny little drill press isn't up to milling much of anything. I think it would spin the 60 grit just fine though.
Clamping the odd shaped rocker in the vice would be the most difficult. An adjuster chucked up in the drill press and screwed into the hole in the rocker will locate it. Then clamp the rocker down in the vice and unscrew the adjuster or unchuck it then unscrew it. The rocker will then be aligned with the chuck and whatever tool you use in it to mill the surface.
If you own a mill you could see that is what it is on. We own severalI had forgotten that @Oldmanmopar posted a photo of a similar setup to what I envisioned, but on an actual milling machine
From 273 Rocker Arm modification jig for locking adjusters
I'd be willing to bet that he would give you a good enough deal on modifying yours that you probably won't want to mess with it yourself. ....and they would be DEAD right.
That works too if you have the steel block to clamp in the mill vice. Making a fixture would be perfect if you were going to do numerous sets. One set modified using the neighbor's drill press can be pretty simple and more accurite than a hand file
For some. I sold my drill press. It would cost me a few hundred and a half day of shopping to put together that combination. I would have to check around town for an end mill. I bet I could find a machine shop to do them faster and cheaper. LOL
This is probably the most rigid/stable setup I've seen and should give a nice flat surface so the nut will be flush when torqued. You would be surprised how much that endmill will want to push the work piece around if it isn't anchored securely. The larger the mill, the more important the rigidity.
That's what she said.
'tis true.
All I've done is start it so far, no driving. TBH I've had enough of panic attacks thinking I've killed the cam or worse. It's no fun turning around and limping home while hoping you make it before the tapping turns into a miss or worse no oil pressure when it kicks a loose pushrod out.
