273 Y-pipe?

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Hell_Fish

Hell_Fish

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Ok, how many y-pipe designs are out there? I found a older tread here that showed a complete NOS commando exhaust and the Y-pipe is a 2 into 1 design. Accurate LTD has an "improved" design and then the exhaust I pulled off my Commando has a "T" design. Sorry no picture, but the drivers side pipe t's into the main pipe.

Are both designs correct? Which one is better in a 2" pipe? Are there other designs as well?
 
The only original 273-four barrel car that I ever took apart that was still original (my old Barracuda had duals when I got it) was a 67 Dart GT. It had the Y-pipe. I've got a picture of it somewhere on my computer at home. We parted that car out in 1981 after it was wrecked in 1974.
 
The exhaust manifolds changed arond 66 model so the down pipes to Ys changed some too.
 
The y-pipe and intermediate pipe is the same from 2bbl and 4bbl in 65-66, correct?
 
I cant say for sure. The left side manifold had a wierd looking crook in the dump end that disappeared either 65 to 66 or 66 to 67.
Commando exhaust was all about the note or tone of the exhaust so there may have been changes ( Y or T ) in that also.
I guess Accurate Exhaust can answer these questions but will want to know which manifolds you have I'm sure. Good luck
 
Here is a pic of the 2bbl and 4bbl Y-pipe design available in early A-body cars. The rusty looking piece is the 2bbl style, where one pipe dies into the other. The 4bbl one shown is an NOS piece and has a "collector" style where both pipes die into one at the same time, but as you can see in the pic, both have to be crushed flat at the end to fit into the collector pipe...not the best for flow. Thats where the Accurate unit differs from the one pictured here. The Accurate design allows the pipe to remain round and die into the collector almost completely unobstructed, save for the fact that both pipes die into the same place and are probably angle cut to fit together and go into the collector as a unit.

The Accurate one is a design improvement over the OE design, but come at a cost. In the end, I still think that the Accurate system is the best overall value, even over duals, but it is a large stroke to pay all at once!!

Hope this helps, geof
 

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The y-pipe and intermediate pipe is the same from 2bbl and 4bbl in 65-66, correct?
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X2 cosgig.The restrictive 65/66 2bbl is the same as is the larger diameter/scavenging y-pipe 4bbl set-up for 65/66 then they changed slightly for 67. Accurate has improved both. Have Accurates y-pipe pictured on my valiant along with rest of their complete hi-po setup. Pricey for sure but fit is excellent along with performance and sound. Just looks so much cooler than duals with the one big chrome tip IMHO. Waldron exhaust is a less expensive option, but not familiar with their product quality.

http://waldronexhaust.com/cart/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=61_36_125

Oldschoolcuda
 

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Speaking of Waldrons, I purchased a complete exhaust from them and installed this winter. I did not use the Y, and have attached pictures. I decided to get more miles out of my original.

While the rest of the exhaust was great, I did not like the Waldrons Y for a couple reasons, one the bolt flanges were solid instead of pressed, so I would have to use 1/4" longer bolts, and the pipe size was smaller. The OEM pipe on my car was straight and not expanded after the Y. The OEM pipe also was reinforced at the Y, that may be why expansion was not necessary.
 

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This is some awesome information and the pictures are great too!
I just ordered some bends and flanges to try and make my own Y pipe.
this will help a Ton.
 
My 273 commando came with the "2bbl" y-pipe that cosgig posted last and Waldrons seems to offer. This it what is confusing me. :) I just got a killer deal on a NOS intermediate pipe and am now looking at the y-pipe and the axle hoop. I'm sure I can have a exhaust shop build one for less that Accurate or Waldrons
 
What year is your car Hell Fish?? Maybe there is an introduction date for the "Formula S" style Y-pipe, or maybe it could be that it was changed on your car at some time. Does your car have the rear valance cutout for the rectangular resonator tip of the HP exhaust, and is your car a Formula S car, or just equipped with the HP motor??

This may give us all some clues as to what came on what when you ordered what!!!..... Geof
 
Its a 65 273 Commando car, not a FS. It does have the rear cutout. The cars did not have the res and tip by the time I got it, but my uncle remembers it when the car was new(er). Bought used in 69
 
Just another angle of the original from the '67 that we parted along with a picture of how we had to leave the car to get the 8-3/4 out. Original 273 four barrel, console auto with tach, disc brakes, handling package, 8-3/4 3.23 sure grip. The rear axle housing in lilcuda's Barracuda.
 

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On the same subject, I like that the factory tested both a 2 into 1 and a dual pipe exhaust and found that the single worked better overall (maybe slightly less HP at max rpm). Some people jump thru hoops (cutting the crossmember) to change to a dual exhaust today.

It reminds me of the 1970's when the Honda motorcycles came with individual exhaust pipes and companies advertised 4 into 1 exhausts with claimed 25% more horsepower. When Honda started selling them with 4 into 1 exhausts, the same companies started selling individual exhaust retrofits, claiming 25% more horsepower.
 
BillGrissom said:
On the same subject, I like that the factory tested both a 2 into 1 and a dual pipe exhaust and found that the single worked better overall (maybe slightly less HP at max rpm). Some people jump thru hoops (cutting the crossmember) to change to a dual exhaust today.

It reminds me of the 1970's when the Honda motorcycles came with individual exhaust pipes and companies advertised 4 into 1 exhausts with claimed 25% more horsepower. When Honda started selling them with 4 into 1 exhausts, the same companies started selling individual exhaust retrofits, claiming 25% more horsepower.
Click to expand...



Thats because duals are stiill cheaper to do than the $940.00 the Accurate system costs. You can do an entire dual setup, complete with modified crossmember for $600.00!!

The Accurate system is a thing of beauty though, I must admit!! The Waldron Y'pipe is the 2bbl design, probably why its so much cheaper!!
 
the commando engine denotes the rear cut out, not the Formula-s. I have 2 67's. Both are 273 4-bbl engines. One is an FS the other one non-FS and both have cut outs.


Hell_Fish said:
Its a 65 273 Commando car, not a FS. It does have the rear cutout. The cars did not have the res and tip by the time I got it, but my uncle remembers it when the car was new(er). Bought used in 69
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cosgig said:
Thats because duals are stiill cheaper to do than the $940.00 the Accurate system costs. You can do an entire dual setup, complete with modified crossmember for $600.00!!

The Accurate system is a thing of beauty though, I must admit!! The Waldron Y'pipe is the 2bbl design, probably why its so much cheaper!!
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Why can't a shop build a single setup?
 
I'm pretty sure that sealing that setup is tricky. You have to "D" the head pipes to fit. It's just more work.
 
Accurate LTD doesn't use the double D design from the photos I have seen. They have a y collector.
 
Accurate LTD doesn't use the double D design from the photos I have seen. They have a y collector.
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The Accurate unit is a nicely engineered well made y collector piece. Another cost effective option is to just purchase the accurate y pipe and fabricate or have shop fabricate the rest of system to your taste. Also common to run without expensive resonator. Gibson has a tip that is almost identical in dimension to original chrome tip on resonator. Just cut straight pipe to length of resonator & add tip. Fills the original rear cut out for that famous look & no one will no unless they look under car.

Oldschoolcuda
 
Oldschoolcuda said:
The Accurate unit is a nicely engineered well made y collector piece. Another cost effective option is to just purchase the accurate y pipe and fabricate or have shop fabricate the rest of system to your taste. Also common to run without expensive resonator. Gibson has a tip that is almost identical in dimension to original chrome tip on resonator. Just cut straight pipe to length of resonator & add tip. Fills the original rear cut out for that famous look & no one will no unless they look under car.

Oldschoolcuda
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http://www.summitracing.com/parts/gib-500365/overview/
This one?
I remember a few years(2000?) someone was making resonator tips. If the gibson one is close, I can just cut the back off of their tip.

All I need is the Y-pipe, muffler, axle loop and resonator.
 
Seems a factory Y-pipe is out of the question for my car, since I will be using Spitfire headers.
 
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