318 Rebuild: Looking for some parts & build suggestions for a more hp street-able (fun when needed) ride.

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Thanks everyone!
I knew when I posted this I was going to get this sort of response based on the ask.
It's the internet and well lets be honest, Mopar people are well... Mopar people (take that with a grain of salt too.)
You start talking 318's and it becomes the skinny underclassmen HS game. Oh well.

And before you get you digital shields dented, I am a Mopar guy as well. Have been since '88 when I got my first hands on my 73 Dart Swinger (opinions will fly about this year, as well, ;). Just been out of the game a bit working hard and raising a fantastic family. Priorities and dreams are starting to line up better now for my projects.

I do appreciate the insights though, just trying to figure out the better way to go about a nice build without leaving the 318 on the side of the house. It's an all numbers matching OG car, I know some people don't care for that stuff anymore given the resto mod thing going on. I get it, I'd like to stay a little bit Leno and Leno at the same time if that makes sense.
I do not want to lend the keys to my wife with 400+ hp so she can run it into a tree, trying to avoid someone or something during a bid to go get ice cream.

That is not the goal and this is not the car for that.

Originally stated above in the post:
Looking for some parts suggestions for a bit more than mild street build.
Not apposed to an aftermarket aluminum heads.

Have a decent budget to pull from because this will continue to be a family car and will not be being sold anytime soon.

Drivetrain upgrades as well will be happening too to help accommodate the engine upgrades and some better drivability n safety.
- Transmission Rebuild
- New Brakes & Suspension
- 8 3/4 rear end swap (8 1/4 is an option as well based on availability)
- Wheels n tires

Thanks for your time, suggestions and comments all!

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Maybe you should build a 318 because any 360 with a decent piston, almost any aftermarket performance camshaft, and aluminum heads, will make 400 fairly easily. A 318 with a refreshed bottom end, small cam, aluminum intake and a 4 barrel might just be the perfect engine for the car to “lend the keys to your wife”
 
As has been suggested keep the cam duration small. Look into builds paying particular attention
to strong lo end and midrange torque numbers.This is also good advice for any street only build!
 
Maybe you should build a 318 because any 360 with a decent piston, almost any aftermarket performance camshaft, and aluminum heads, will make 400 fairly easily. A 318 with a refreshed bottom end, small cam, aluminum intake and a 4 barrel might just be the perfect engine for the car to “lend the keys to your wife”
Yes, because I do have a 360 stored away to really build up for my '73 Swinger.
That is to be a car I 'wlll not be' lending the keys to my wife.
 
Thanks everyone!
I knew when I posted this I was going to get this sort of response based on the ask.
It's the internet and well lets be honest, Mopar people are well... Mopar people (take that with a grain of salt too.)
You start talking 318's and it becomes the skinny underclassmen HS game. Oh well.

And before you get you digital shields dented, I am a Mopar guy as well. Have been since '88 when I got my first hands on my 73 Dart Swinger (opinions will fly about this year, as well, ;). Just been out of the game a bit working hard and raising a fantastic family. Priorities and dreams are starting to line up better now for my projects.

I do appreciate the insights though, just trying to figure out the better way to go about a nice build without leaving the 318 on the side of the house. It's an all numbers matching OG car, I know some people don't care for that stuff anymore given the resto mod thing going on. I get it, I'd like to stay a little bit Leno and Leno at the same time if that makes sense.
I do not want to lend the keys to my wife with 400+ hp so she can run it into a tree, trying to avoid someone or something during a bid to go get ice cream.

That is not the goal and this is not the car for that.

Originally stated above in the post:
Looking for some parts suggestions for a bit more than mild street build.
Not apposed to an aftermarket aluminum heads.

Have a decent budget to pull from because this will continue to be a family car and will not be being sold anytime soon.

Drivetrain upgrades as well will be happening too to help accommodate the engine upgrades and some better drivability n safety.
- Transmission Rebuild
- New Brakes & Suspension
- 8 3/4 rear end swap (8 1/4 is an option as well based on availability)
- Wheels n tires

Thanks for your time, suggestions and comments all!

View attachment 1716447011
You can narrow things down by telling us how much horsepower you would like and what gear and tire you plan to use. Or what rpm you want to turn at 55mph. Also do you have a cubic inch limit?
 
I had a cam nearly identical to this cam in a small valve 73 340. Tremendous lo rpm power right from idle up, and surprisingly quick in the quarter mile.21570R14 and 3.23:1 (This graph is for a 9:1 sbc) Check out the torque at 2000 and 400 ft.lbs at about 2700 rpm!

xe250.JPG
 
I think the late 340 is a viable option across the board...as far as something to build up. Even the early 70s 360 had those low compression dished pistons etc.
 
You can narrow things down by telling us how much horsepower you would like and what gear and tire you plan to use. Or what rpm you want to turn at 55mph. Also do you have a cubic inch limit?
thinking this combo
3.23 or 3.55 | 904 w/shift kit (converter 2,400-3,000 RPM) | 318 to be gone through to produce 325 - 350hp
 
thinking this combo
3.23 or 3.55 | 904 w/shift kit (converter 2,400-3,000 RPM) | 318 to be gone through to produce 325 - 350hp
Heads basically are gonna decide hp, above 300 hp stock 273/318 heads ain't gonna do it with a reasonable cam cam and cr.

With a 318 I'd go with 3.55 minimum.
 
Maxx 171 SB Mopar (Sold in Pairs) - PROMAXX Performance Products6310-3970 318 Small Block Mopar FX Series -3cc Flat Top Small Block Mo
Start there and then get some scat rods.. look into a hydraulic roller cam, something small, nothing over .530 lift/272 duration , but nothing smaller than 219@.050.. run the numbers on a dynamic calculator.. you want to end up with 170 cranking psi.. like 8.1 dynamic..nothing more than. 8.2 dynamic, rpm intake and 650 or 700 cfm carb.. but look into the fitech injection..they're not too much right now.
 
If it's a cruiser for the wife a used magnum 5.2 or better yet a 5.9 would do the job and let you save some bucks for the one you want to make fast.
 
There's no reason a 318 can't be built similar to a well put together 289/302 even a low cr 318 should be able to put out similar torque as a high cr 289/302 just cause of the displacement difference and intake width don't hurt also.

Tons of people have had fun with 289/302's no reason you can't with a 318.
 
It's a shame the 318 doesn't get the respect it deserves. Rebuilt they end up 320 plus cubes depending
on the the amount of overbore. Look at the fanfare the 327 has always garnered?
 
It's a shame the 318 doesn't get the respect it deserves. Rebuilt they end up 320 plus cubes depending
on the the amount of overbore. Look at the fanfare the 327 has always garnered?
100%
 
I have a full set of new .030 over pistons mounted to reconditioned rods in Seattle. I would ship them to your door for $200.
 
A well built 318 with smart parts choices will make 325HP or more fallin outta bed and get decent mileage doin it. Plenty enough for a fun A body.
 
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A well built 318 with smart parts choices will make 325HP or more fallin outta bed and get decent mileage doin it. PLenty enough for a fun A body.
30 over 318, 10:1 compression. 302's with a three angle and bowl clean up, MP purple shaft P4452761 (.450"/.455" lift, 268/272 duration 110LSA 108cl), plain ol' performer intake and a 3310 750

330hp @5700

sounded good, ran great. more than enough to have a boat load of fun in an a-body with 3.55's and a 4spd
 
30 over 318, 10:1 compression. 302's with a three angle and bowl clean up, MP purple shaft P4452761 (.450"/.455" lift, 268/272 duration 110LSA 108cl), plain ol' performer intake and a 3310 750

330hp @5700

sounded good, ran great. more than enough to have a boat load of fun in an a-body with 3.55's and a 4spd
Yeah, but you caint tell people that when there are so many naysayers crap talkin the 318 and so many magazine articles and forum gurus saying if you ain't got at least 600HP, you ain't chit. It gets old. 330HP is enough to get a well prepped A body into the 12s.
 
In 1997 the GM engineers created the LS1. Their flagship performance engine for the corvette
and still an aftermarket favourite today. The bore is 3.9 and the stroke is 3.62 for a displacement
of about 347 cu. in.
A .030 over 318 with a 3.58 stroke would make about 349 cu. in. Might be a pretty good platform
for all around performance!
 
Yeah, but you caint tell people that when there are so many naysayers crap talkin the 318 and so many magazine articles and forum gurus saying if you ain't got at least 600HP, you ain't chit. It gets old. 330HP is enough to get a well prepped A body into the 12s.
900hp and it better run 9's on street tires with a dual plane
 
thinking this combo
3.23 or 3.55 | 904 w/shift kit (converter 2,400-3,000 RPM) | 318 to be gone through to produce 325 - 350hp
There will be many ways to achieve those goals. From easy to complicated and expensive to low dollar. If the parameters include using a 318 block my personal preference would be to start with a 4" stroke crankshaft. All other things being equal the longer stroke will make more power in a lower rpm range with more vacuum and a smoother idle where you spend the majority of your time driving on the street.There will be many other suggestions that also will achieve your goals. Take your pick.
 
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